Wanted Nomad in AEBL
- Thread starter Murat_Cyp
- Start date
Can you send your phone no il text you photos and documents of authenticity thanks
I've edited a post to remove the public sharing of a phone number. Not generally a good idea on an open forum.
ATB
Chris
ATB
Chris
I have a Nomad in AEB-L, and it is the best knife I own, and I have a few custom knives including a couple of Jacklores. Fantastic knife...I would never part with it. Your best bet would be to just bite the bullet and go for a brand new one...you won't regret it, it's money well spent. There aren't many used ones around, because once you have one you won't let it go, it's as simple as that.
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I do hope you find one. If I hear of one for sale I'll let you know.
Merry Christmas,
Allan
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The data says 30 % more abrasive resistant than O1. But it is also 300 % tougher (i.e. impact shock resistance) than O1 according to the same source. And since one of the edge retention mechanisms involved in cutting wood is the edge stability (directly related to the impact toughness). I would say, AEBL edge should last noticeably longer than AEBL for typical bushcraft use.
Unfortunately, some makers are charging very high prices for knives made from AEBL as it is one of those high-end exotic stainless steel. But the reality is, it is one of the cheapest stainless (similarly priced to O1) and very easy to work with in terms of grind ability. So it will not eat makers' belts. It is also not the most difficult stainless steel to heat treat as it is widely used in the knife industry and there is an established heat treat protocol for it.
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Im a big fan of RWL34, seems to suit my needs perfectly but that can be expensive too, depending on the maker. Just don’t want something that will be used a lot whittling needing constant resharpening
I have carving sloyd made of 1095 (I assume that's what Mora 106 is made of), 52100 and RWL34. They are not much difference between them in use since I always prefer to use very sharp knives. They all lose their extreme sharpness relatively soon after use, so constant maintenance with a strop is required regardless of the steel. Sharpening (using stones) is not required if I do not chip or roll the edge. As a side note, the strop should be flat with no or little give in to prevent the rounding of the apex. If the apex is rounded after repeated stropping, a very long sharpening session is required to correct the geometry, hence bringing the sharpness back. So, in my case, the reason I want AEBL is it is rust resistance, edge stability and the ability to take a better edge than O1 rather than its edge retention qualities.
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