My way of making a basket

John Fenna

Lifetime Member & Maker
Oct 7, 2006
23,276
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Pembrokeshire
OK - here we go..
This is the first tutorial I have tried to write and illustrate sooooooooooooooooo....
First of all I thought I would do a "Melon Basket" - as they seem to be easiest and chose to make it with a mixture of Willow - from a tree I planted myself in my garden a few years back, and Blackberry canes or runners.
The first stage was the frame hoops.
These I had already prepared.
When I cut the Willow at the end of the winter I bound them into hoops that were something about 1/3 again as big as the intended baskets, this gave me options to resize a bit when it came to making the baskets but you can make the hoops, from straight bits of willow that have been soaked, without drying them to shape.
To get a join that is not too lumpy I scarf the join, thinning down each end to fit together neatly (one end thinned on the inside one end thinned on the outside to fit).
hoopsreadytojoin.jpg

The hoops were then lashed together with natural cordage - in this case two ply made from (I think) Willow bast that had been tanned in ashes and Willow outerbark. Paracord will work if you prefer... or hemp, nettle, sisal, raffia etc.
hoopsjoined.jpg

Once the hoops are ready they can be made into the first stage of the frame by weaving in the first "weavers".
In this case I used more of the same cordage as I wanted great flexibility.
Start by positioning one hoop iside the other to give the proportions of handle to basket that you want - a right-angle join of eaqal sized sections is a good start.
to start the weaving take the tip of your weaver or end of your cord on the inside of the basket handle hoop, with the end pointing down to the right, and then take the "working part" of the weaver up to the left, around the outside of the handle (above the rim hoop level) and then diagonally down leftwards across the inside of the handle, trapping the tip of the weaver.
Take the weaver/cordaround the outside of the handle hoop (below the rim hoop), back across the inside of the handle hoop ( under the rim hoop level), under the rim hoop, wrap it tightly around the rim hoop and back down under the handle hoop and up to the rim hoop on the other side.
The weaving continues under and over, rim hoop, handle hoop, rim hoop etc etc, always trying to keep it all neat.
firstweavinginside.jpg

firstweavingoutside.jpg

Work from both ends toward the centre. When you finish a weaver try to leave the end either trapped against the handle hoop or with the end tucked into the "pocket" formed by previous turns of the weavers over the handle hoop.
I hope you can all follow that!
These pockets will also form the housing for the "ribs" or secondry frame members of the basket.
Once you have woven a couple or so weavers on each side of the basket you can think about adding the ribs.
firstbrambleweaverinside.jpg

firstbrambleweaveroutside.jpg

The next thing to do is make the "ribs" - sections of frame that fit into the pockets formed in the weaving. These are of a length to keep a nice curve to the shape of the basket,and pointed at each end to make it easier to push them tight into each of the four pockets.
preparingtheribs.jpg

ribsfitted.jpg

Once the ribs are in you can keep on weaving the basket, working from each end, in a simple over and under weave. try and end and start the weavers as near the centre line of the basket as possible and match the thickness of each weaver as much as possible.
Toward the middle you may find that there is a gap in the middle of the basket but here is no room for more weavers on the rim (it did not happen in this basket) - simply weave the centre on the ribs, ignoring the rim until the gap is filled.
weavingthebasket.jpg

Keep going until the basket is finished, trim any loose ends and any ends that are sticking out and the job is done!
finishedbasket.jpg

basketbase.jpg

I hope you have fun with this - the basket in the photos took about 4 hours to weave - and about as long to collect enough materials and prep them. The hoops were not soaked but the brambles were dried for about two weeks and then soaked for a week. __________________
 

John Fenna

Lifetime Member & Maker
Oct 7, 2006
23,276
3,068
67
Pembrokeshire
A bit more basketry my way ....
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And now a bramble "bucket" type basket - using a "twining" weave!
The base of the basket is made in the same way as a platter or pot stand.
Select 8 pieces of thicker bramble to form the "spokes" of tthe base. Each piece needs to be the same length, this length wanting to be twice as long as the width you want if making a platter or 1/3 again the length you want a basket base to be.
Bramblespokes.jpg

DSCF5773.jpg


Take 4 of the pieces and make a lengthwase split in the middle of each piece, about as long as the bundle ofthe other 4 is wide.Thread the other 4 through the split to make a cross shape.
Spokessplitandmadeintobasiccross.jpg

DSCF5774.jpg


Select a thin and supple bramble to be your first weaver and fold it in halfaround one arm of the cross and weave each end around the cross to give 2 full wraps. Each end of the weaver goes under and over the arms of the cross and also crosses over the other half of the weaver between each arm - this is where the technique gets its name "twining" as if the cross of spokes was not there then the weaver would look like a twisted piece of twine
Startingtotwinetheweavers.jpg

DSCF5775.jpg


Once you have gone around the cross twice spread the spokes of the cross as evenly as you can and weave the weavers in and out between each spoke, remembering to cross the weavers as you go.
When the ends of the weavers become too different in width, trim off one end (it does not matter which - leave yourself the end that is easiest to work with - in practice you will probably find that the thick end needs snipping off).
You can either tuck the cut end neatly into the weave down the side of one of the spokes or overlap the end of the new weaver with the end of the old and weave both together for a few turns. If you tuck the ends then tuck the start of the new weaver beside the end of the old and weave on with the new,.
Weavingthebase.jpg

DSCF5776.jpg

DSCF5777.jpg



Continue weavingand twining, adding new weavers as needed - you will probably find that you can use thicker and less supple brambles as the spokes get further apart as the base widens.
If you are making a platter or pot stand you need to go only half way along the spoke with the weaving and finish by tucking the ends of the weavers down the side of a spoke. Then cut the end of the spoke to a point and weave it over the next spoke and tuck it down beside the next spoke along from that one. this gives a strong edge to the platter.
If however you intend your work to be the base of a bucket basket you can continue weaving and twining to the point where about between 1/3 of the length of the spoke is left exposed before tucking the weavers down the side of a spoke to finish the base
Basecomplete.jpg

DSCF5779.jpg


I will continue the rest of the basket soon
Remember to cross or twine the weavers between each spoke - this is a pain to remember at first but you soon develop a rythem!
 
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John Fenna

Lifetime Member & Maker
Oct 7, 2006
23,276
3,068
67
Pembrokeshire
Once you have your base made you can think about the sides of the basket.
For this one I selected some bramble canes that were pretty substantial.
I needed one "upright" for each spoke and for the size I planned each needed to be about 3' long.
DSCF5803.jpg

The thick end of each upright needs to be trimmed to a point and then inserted into the base as far as is possible.
This will anchor them and at the same time take up any slack inthe weaving of the base.
DSCF5804.jpg

Once inserted the upright can be folded (be carefull not to snap the cane ... and have spares handy!) to about 90 degrees to form the sides of the basket.
Gather all the uprights and tie them together or they will flop all over the place as you start weaving the sides of the basket.
DSCF5805.jpg

The ends of the spokes can be woven into the basket or - as I did here - snipped off close to the edge of the base.
DSCF5806.jpg
 

Dave

Hill Dweller
Sep 17, 2003
6,019
9
Brigantia
Thats fantastic. I wanted to buy a couple of Large Whicker style baskets to use as a Christmas Hamper, to put some goodies in for the family, but they were way too expensive. With a few holly leaves, mistletoe and some tinsel, I bet these would come out great. Thanks for posting it.

[Im seeing some photos missing.]
 
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John Fenna

Lifetime Member & Maker
Oct 7, 2006
23,276
3,068
67
Pembrokeshire
Thats fantastic. I wanted to buy a couple of Large Whicker style baskets to use as a Christmas Hamper, to put some goodies in for the family, but they were way too expensive. With a few holly leaves, mistletoe and some tinsel, I bet these would come out great. Thanks for posting it.

[Im seeing some photos missing.]
I recently had real probs with Pbucket - the missing photos have been replaced with the ones that are visible :)
 

John Fenna

Lifetime Member & Maker
Oct 7, 2006
23,276
3,068
67
Pembrokeshire
OK - now we get to twining the sides.
I start by tucking two weavers, nice supple ones, into the base next to one of the uprights and twining away.
Firsttwiningofthesides.jpg

Again, when you come to the end of a weaver try and leave the ends on the inside of the basket, overlapping the new weaveer with the old for a few uprights and trying not to have too many joins in one area.
Atthisstageyoucanuntiethetops.jpg

Once you get a couple of inches woven you can untie the tops of the uprights and the basket should retain its upright attitude. If the ends of weavers pop to the outside - tuck them back to the inside!
tuckstrayendstotheinside.jpg

More seriously - if an upright fails select a strong but thinnish piece of cane and tuck it into the weave alongside the failed section and carry on weaving/twining away.
Ifanuprightfails.jpg

insertingasplint.jpg

Try and keep the sides of the basket vertical (or not as your design requires) and with the uprights as evenly spaced as possible.
On this basket I have left the canes quite rough (a nice look but hard on your hands during weaving) and have let the natural shape of the canes dictate the shape of the basket to a degree.... It is intentionally "rustic" looking ...realy...it is intentional.... :)
Continue twining the sides until you get as tall a basket as you want.
Twineuntilyougettoahightyoulike.jpg
 
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John Fenna

Lifetime Member & Maker
Oct 7, 2006
23,276
3,068
67
Pembrokeshire
We are on the home straight (or in the case of this basket...wobbly and bent!) now...
Once you have the basket as tall as you want tuck the ends of the weavers down the side of an upright and start on the rim.
The rim is formed bt weaving the uprights on top of the walls of the basket.
Take the first upright and bend it sideways and weave it in front of the next upright, behind the next in front of the next and trim it offf so that the end lies on the back of the next one....easy to write - not so easy to do, especialy for the last few uprights , where you will be weaving them through the first ones that were woven down!
Startingtherim.jpg

rimshot.jpg

I suffered a couple of uprights that failed during the rim weaving process and so some of the ends are a bit obvious and in one case the whole upright had to be splinted and replaced with an extension piece for the rim....
Finishedrim.jpg

At this stage you can call the basket finished - it will make (or, like this one- just be :) ) a rubbish basket to keep next to your desk for filing bills and junk mail....
Finishedrim.jpg

in this view you can see some of the ends I failed to hide inside and the way I let the materials give the shape of the basket ....
If you want you can add handles - or a handle - to the basket by selecting 2 long weavers for each handle.
I chose to make one handle arching over the basket but if you want 2 handles - one each side of the basket - the method is the same, just the size and location is different.
Ram one end of your weaver down through the rim and a good way into the basket (trying not to distort the rim :) ) then take the other end to where you want that attached. Pass the end of the weaver through the weave of the basket walls a couple of weavers down from the rim and pull it through to give the length of handle you want, then bring it back up to the top of the rim and twist it around the first pass of the handle.
startingthehandle.jpg

keep twisting it around the handle until you get to the rim at the point you started from where you can either "sew" it into the rim or just push it down alongside its other end.
The second handle weaver is inserted down through the rim like the first one but at the other side and the weaver is twisted around the embyonic handle to lay with the existing twists all the way to the far rim, then it is passed through the basket walls as before and tisted around the handle back to its start point and finished as with the original handle weaver.
The handle and perhaps the basket are now finished!
finished.jpg

The basket did not turn out quite as I planned - I had a fair few breakages and letting the shape of the canes dictate the shape of the basket make have been a bit "Arty". Also I was planning to have this a covered basket, with a lid made in the same way as the base and a shoulder strap - but my wife nicked the lid to go under a potted Geranium in our front porch and I was running out of brambles to make another.... so it is a plain bucket basket!
This basket will now be used for transporting varios bits of craft materials and tools when I go out to do a bit of carving, net making etc up in the woods.
Although I do not claim to be a good - or even near good - basket maker, I do enjoy making things from nothing and although these baskets may be a bit "rustic" they are practical and will get used.
I hope that others will post their basketry and methods - I would like to learn some more techniques!
 

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