My First DSLR

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Dave

Hill Dweller
Sep 17, 2003
6,019
9
Brigantia
After doing a bit of research, I have decided to get myself a Nikon d40, [not falling for the 'more pixels the better' myth] with a Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G, and a Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6 DG Macro Lens.

Couple of questions for you experienced snappers.

Does this sound like a good choice for the outdoors?

Anything else I should be considering a necessity, for outdoors photography? [I.E Filters, tripods, etc]

Are peli cases any good?

Looking forward to taking some good Photos, hopefully.


Cheers
Dave
 
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tjwuk

Nomad
Apr 4, 2009
329
0
Cornwall
Sounds OK to me. As with any camera, the pictures are all dependant on the quality of the lens you use. And you missed the all important issue, how much money you have to spend!

If money isn't an issue, look more at the prime lenses, (lower f =value) They suck in more light and give an overall better picture, IMO.

Main thing you want to be looking at for the lenses are skylight filters to protect the lens face. Don't skimp on these, get the best you can afford.

And yes Peli case are some of the best you can buy, why I guess TV crews use them!

Edit:

And if you want the, Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6 DG Macro Lens make sure its the APO range or you will be disappointed.
 
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Dave

Hill Dweller
Sep 17, 2003
6,019
9
Brigantia
I had decided to get the Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 18-55mm for 'everyday' shooting.

And the Sigma 70-300mm F4-5.6 Telephoto Zoom Lens, for outdoors.

Ideally I would have liked the NIKON 18-200MM F3.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S VR DX, but as a beginner, I dont want to splash out that much dosh.

From the reviews Ive read, the Sigma 70-300mm, looks like the best long 'budget' lense for the Nikon d40.

Unless anyone can suggest a better alternative?
 

lamper

Full Member
Jun 4, 2009
614
0
Brighton UK
www.peligra.com
Dave,

Not sure if you know this, but You Nikon is not what they call full frame (it doesn have a sensor the size of 35mm film) - so you need to multiply your focal length by 1.5 to get the actualy viewing distance for you camera.

So a 70-300mm is actually 105-450mm - WHICH IS LONG!

I have a Cannon 450D (Same 1.5 multipler) and it come with their version of the 18-55mm is the kit lens, its basic but a good starter, and has image/vibration stabilsation - not very sharp, bu the image stabaliser will allow you to do more low light stuff with spending mega bucks.

The Sigma 70-300mm F4-5.6 APO DG MACRO Telephoto Zoom Lens. If you have the cash, spend the extra and get the APO DG one. Its built to work with your style of camera (due to the 1.5 crop ratio of your sensor) and the APO is the coating on the glass that further reduces glare, and chromatic abrassion - Basically removing the blue or pink lines you around the edge of some object in your pics.

Here is a pic of Worcester Cathedrel take with the Sigma APO DG Lens on my Cannon
4186503490_3486322b72_b.jpg


Other kit
- Tripod is a must if you are going to take this seriously. Lowlight, panoramics, etc all need one to do properly. - Don't buy cheap or light, its a waste of time. Make sure its study when the legs are fully extended.

- Remote release - for low light stuff essential so you dont know the camera - cost about a £10.

- Lens pen - Cleaning pen and greasy remover - £12

- Rocket blower - for getting grit off the lens before you use the lens pens - £10


Hope that helps.

Mike
 

scanker

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Aug 15, 2005
2,326
24
52
Cardiff, South Wales
I have a D60, which is very similar to the D40. Best advice I can give is to look at www.kenrockwell.com There's stacks of advice there, and you'll quickly find he loves the D40. Also advice on lenses etc there.

I got the VR version of the kit lens you mention with my camera. I bought the Nikon 55-200 at the same time and a while later got a fast 50mm lens.

All I can tell you is my experience - what you use the camera for may differ greatly from me. I rarely use the 55-200, the 50mm is on my camera most of the time. I use the 18-55 fairly frequently too. If I had some spare cash I'd consider a wider lens for landscapes and maybe a macro lens, but I can manage for the time being.
 

scanker

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Aug 15, 2005
2,326
24
52
Cardiff, South Wales
Just read Lamper's post. Remote release is something I forgot to mention - you can get one for the D40/60 from Deal Extreme for about £3 delivered. Buy two in case you lose one / give one away.
 

tommy the cat

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Feb 6, 2007
2,138
1
55
SHROPSHIRE UK
I think from the little I know you have some good advice there.
I guess lenses are dependent on subject matter. I have the canon with effectively the same lens you are looking at but with IMAGE STABALISATION which I think is worth the extra but does make for a dearer lens.
I think Pablo has got 'your' set up he has some pic's from Africa
http://woodlife.ning.com/photo
Dont expect too much in woods when it gets dark you will be a bit dissapointed with the light properties of the lens.
IMG_0735.jpg

This pic was taken pretty early really in a mixed woodland.
Enjoy.
Dave
 
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Dave

Hill Dweller
Sep 17, 2003
6,019
9
Brigantia
Dave,

Not sure if you know this, but You Nikon is not what they call full frame (it doesn have a sensor the size of 35mm film) - so you need to multiply your focal length by 1.5 to get the actualy viewing distance for you camera.

So a 70-300mm is actually 105-450mm - WHICH IS LONG!

I have a Cannon 450D (Same 1.5 multipler) and it come with their version of the 18-55mm is the kit lens, its basic but a good starter, and has image/vibration stabilsation - not very sharp, bu the image stabaliser will allow you to do more low light stuff with spending mega bucks.

The Sigma 70-300mm F4-5.6 APO DG MACRO Telephoto Zoom Lens. If you have the cash, spend the extra and get the APO DG one. Its built to work with your style of camera (due to the 1.5 crop ratio of your sensor) and the APO is the coating on the glass that further reduces glare, and chromatic abrassion - Basically removing the blue or pink lines you around the edge of some object in your pics.

Here is a pic of Worcester Cathedrel take with the Sigma APO DG Lens on my Cannon
4186503490_3486322b72_b.jpg


Other kit
- Tripod is a must if you are going to take this seriously. Lowlight, panoramics, etc all need one to do properly. - Don't buy cheap or light, its a waste of time. Make sure its study when the legs are fully extended.

- Remote release - for low light stuff essential so you dont know the camera - cost about a £10.

- Lens pen - Cleaning pen and greasy remover - £12

- Rocket blower - for getting grit off the lens before you use the lens pens - £10


Hope that helps.

Mike

That a Brilliant photo.


Obviously a bit of a learning curve, and I am at the bottom of it!


I'll have find out what the APO DG means.....Obviously thats important then...
And have a look tonight at the other things mentioned. Like Remote Relases, Lens pens and rocket blowers [Sounds like Im off to war!]


My knowledge of lenses is zero.

So I will have a look at the Landscape and 50mm 'fast' lenses.
[I had envisioned taking photos of high flying osprey, etc, as well as landscapes.]

Im glad I posted now, before I bought anything!

Thanks for the advice.
 

lamper

Full Member
Jun 4, 2009
614
0
Brighton UK
www.peligra.com
Well to get you started check out - http://www.dslrtips.com/

What Tommy said is true, the Image Stabaliser (Canon) or Virbration Reduction (Nikon) - same thing - will come with the kit lens. Worth getting if you are on a budget.

The main thing to remember about photography is this...

"Photogrpahy is like making love to a beautiful women. It's expensive and everyone thinks they can do it - but its great fun trying!"
 

Dave

Hill Dweller
Sep 17, 2003
6,019
9
Brigantia
Well to get you started check out - http://www.dslrtips.com/

What Tommy said is true, the Image Stabaliser (Canon) or Virbration Reduction (Nikon) - same thing - will come with the kit lens. Worth getting if you are on a budget.

The main thing to remember about photography is this...

"Photogrpahy is like making love to a beautiful women. It's expensive and everyone thinks they can do it - but its great fun trying!"

Thanks for the tip Mike

However some of us can do it.:D
 

Dave

Hill Dweller
Sep 17, 2003
6,019
9
Brigantia
Mutter Mutter.........This buying the right lense malarky is a minefield.:dunno:

The Sigma 70-300mm F4-5.6 APO DG MACRO Telephoto Zoom Lens, you suggested Mike.

Do I have to make sure, if I buy one, that it comes with autofocus? [Autofocus?! Whats that? I shall have to look into this tonight.]

It seems some do come with Autofocus and some dont?

And no, I did not know that the D40 is not Full frame. [More research required by me] So therefore multiplies my focal length by a factor of 1.5

Thanks for mentioning what VR stands for.

What does APO DG EX stand for then?!

Would this be a good one for me to get?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330397017290&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123

If not, what is a good lens for taking shots of distant wildlife?

Cheers

Dave
 
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Dave

Hill Dweller
Sep 17, 2003
6,019
9
Brigantia
I think from the little I know you have some good advice there.
I guess lenses are dependent on subject matter. I have the canon with effectively the same lens you are looking at but with IMAGE STABALISATION which I think is worth the extra but does make for a dearer lens.

Dave

Hi Tommy. When you say you have the same lens as the one I am thinking of getting, but with Image stabilisation,

Are you meaning I should get the The Sigma 70-300mm F4-5.6 APO DG MACRO Telephoto Zoom Lens,
with Image stabilization
or the Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 18-55mm
with Image Stabilization? [VR]

Jeees this is complicated!

Thanks
 

scanker

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Aug 15, 2005
2,326
24
52
Cardiff, South Wales
You want autofocus really. You can put some manual lenses on the D40 iirc, but you'd miss autofocus.

The D40, D40X, D60 from Nikon don't have any autofocus mechanism built into the bodies of the camera, as is the case with the more expensive models. You need Nikon lenses that state "AFS" or "AF-S" to autofocus with these cameras. I think the equivalent with Sigma lenses is "USM" or "HSM" - not too sure.

If you think the D40 is the one for you, I'd be tempted to just get just that and the kit lens, take your shots for a month or two, then see what sort of photos you've taken. Would they benefit from wider angle, longer lens, more light etc etc?

Edit to add, I don't think the lens in the Ebay link will autofocus on a D40, as above.

Not worth another post really, so I'll tack this on here. Where are you getting the D40 from? Is it second hand?

Finally, here's a useful link: www.camerapricebuster.com
 
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lamper

Full Member
Jun 4, 2009
614
0
Brighton UK
www.peligra.com
On the train and its a little difficult to check ebay on the blackberry.

You can learn what apo dg etc means - but it changes for each manufacturer. Go and check out the sigma site.

They have a set of icons and identifies for APC-S sensors (likes your) and full frame.

If you have skype, pm me and we can have a chat later, I'm always happy to talk cameras and it will give my missus a break from me.
 
Dave, what are you intending to do with the photos? You can get sucked into the whole "what lens is best" thing or the "My lens cost this much so it must be great" debate, yet most of us will only view pictures on our PCs or post some on forums like this one. I have a Nikon set up as I have had Nikon film camers for years and years and didn't want to have to buy any new lens'. I was warned that the old film lens' wouldn't work as well on my DSLR yet I have had no problems what so ever. If you want a bargain lens, this may be a way to get good quality at knock down prices. Don't be over swayed by the lack of VR on these types of lens. It makes you wonder how photos were ever taken before their invention. :rolleyes:
 
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Dave

Hill Dweller
Sep 17, 2003
6,019
9
Brigantia
Thanks for help.

Yes Neil, I am thinking of getting one off of Ebay.

This Seller, seems to sell a lot of the Nikon d40's, and has good feedback:

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/buyista/m.html?_nkw=d40&_sacat=0&_trksid=p3911.m270.l1313&_odkw=&_osacat=0

I will be buying body only.

I may do as you suggest and buy the 'kit lens' first.

I found one on Ebay here: [Please post and tell me, if its not the right one]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nikon-AF-S-DX...es_CameraLensesFilters_JN?hash=item3efc0df959

BTW.

The seller of the Sigma lens, here:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330397017290&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123

has just pm me back and said that he had the lens attached to a d80, and autofocus would work with a d40? [So Im not sure what to think now.]

Would this lens would be good for taking distant wildlife shots of osprey, eagles, otters, etc?
 

lamper

Full Member
Jun 4, 2009
614
0
Brighton UK
www.peligra.com
Dave,

Sorry if i waded in and threw a load of stuff at you to think about.

Celt is right in some respects. "The lens debate" can get a little cloudy. But it comes down one factor overall - MONEY!

If you have the cash I would buy the most expensive lens you can get. This is because top end lenses hardly move in price year on year and buying a cheap lens for a good body is im my view a waste of time!

The other thing Celt mentioned about older lenses is a good move. Image stabilisation (IS) is nice to have but not essential, especially for landscape work where you should be on a tripod. I use my kit lens with IS on it for things like holidays and birthday etc. It made of entirely plastic so its light and good indoors and out. If you are going to get the kit lens you should look at the deal for the body with lens included, it will be cheaper.

What's more you can get some older primer lenses (fixed focal length - no zoom at all) for cheap on ebay. Generally prime lenses are much sharper than they zoom counterparts as they are less complex and tailored to the focal length.
 

tjwuk

Nomad
Apr 4, 2009
329
0
Cornwall
As I said in my first post go for the APO or apochromatic, that what is stands for!!

All this does is focuses each of the light frequencies to help combat colour fringing you will see with the non APO or acomatic type lenses.
 

tommy the cat

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Feb 6, 2007
2,138
1
55
SHROPSHIRE UK
Dave, there are lots of forums you can have a look at, also google a few diff terms and you will get a clearer idea.
If it was me again I would get the kit lens 18mm 55mm vr (vibration reduction) and go have a play. Generally you will get a good deal with the standard lens its a good walk around lens and then work out what you want from there.
If you want to take photo's of animals deer, birds deer etc I would go for a minimum of 300mm or longer or you will need to become a very good stalker!
I know very little but I know how close a 300mm lens will get you to nervous animals and for me its barely close enough.
Get the kit and learn to use the camera bud....you can then decide on a long lens.
Dave
 

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