My 'custom' billhook design. + pics! any black smiths??

[Samon]

Right first off, i'm looking at getting a multi purpose tool to replace my current hand axe as it needs to retire. Secondly..I don't want a new axe..(yet) and i dont want another machete but something simular to a billhook. I know what I use my kit for and couldn't find my axe being superior to my machete other than for splitting logs. So... I did a bit of googleing to have a look at billhooks as i know they come in many different styles and found one i like.

So here's what i found.

I can imagine a heavy duty cleaver type billy like this would suit my purposes well. But..i wanted a longer fixed handle, so i still had something to hold on to ..just incase the wooden one were to 'dissapear' . and a bit of an edge under its small back hook (highlighted in grey) to chip away the slim twigs and branches from lengths of branch. and a single bevel type chisel edge on the front side of the tool so i can baton the tools finger guard when its upside down(also highlighted in grey). Thought that would be usefull for me at times.

(the scale of the design hasn't been figured out yet but this a rough i just did on paint).

Is anyone capable of forging a tool like this for me? And what do you think of this 'modified' tool?

cheers guys!

 

[Imagedude]

Steel socketed handles can be cold and slippery, I prefer a stick tang.

 

[British Red]

Dave Budd can forge anything you need - within reason

 

[Samon]

Steel socketed handles can be cold and slippery, I prefer a stick tang.

i know what you mean mate but i've used several billys over the years on various forestry jobs and hobbies..always prefered the robustness of the socketed handles, even when it was raining (though there was a wooden handle also attached) and it adds reach.

 

[Samon]

Dave Budd can forge anything you need - within reason

I've sent my rough picture to a guy on here to see what he says about costs and ideas etc 'launditch1' is his name. showed me a few pics of his creations and they looked nice, but awaiting my reply.

I've never had anything custom made before so i have very little idea on costs..do you have any idea waht it could be?

 

[British Red]

No, but launditch1 has custom made several things for me....all cheap and great quality!

 

[Samon]

No, but launditch1 has custom made several things for me....all cheap and great quality!

rally? wow, did you like the things he made you? was it knives he made?

 

[British Red]

No, he made the first of his "camp grills" he now sells for me, plus a set of custom fire irons for my wood burning range.

 

[Samon]

No, he made the first of his "camp grills" he now sells for me, plus a set of custom fire irons for my wood burning range.

Are there many decent smithys on here? who would you rate the best for my needs?

 

[nic.]

As your design is so similar to the one you found on Google I would have thought that it would be cheaper to buy it and modify the grinds- custom made stuff is invariably more expensive than off the shelf. I have heard similar ones described as york pattern.

 

[Samon]

As your design is so similar to the one you found on Google I would have thought that it would be cheaper to buy it and modify the grinds- custom made stuff is invariably more expensive than off the shelf. I have heard similar ones described as york pattern.

I did think that but id like the blade thicker and i couldn't find one with a longer handle for sale, i'd like a pitted rustic looking blade too..just for asthetics. mind you that one was like £50 and was quite old.

 

[nic.]

Fair enough!- I just had a quick look and socketed ones seem to be more expensive- If you have specific ideas of what you want then custom made is going to be the best option. I could make have made it, but as you have already made enquires I don't want to step on anyone's toes. Will be interested to see what you finally come up with- I like Hooks

Nic

 

[Samon]

Fair enough!- I just had a quick look and socketed ones seem to be more expensive- If you have specific ideas of what you want then custom made is going to be the best option. I could make have made it, but as you have already made enquires I don't want to step on anyone's toes. Will be interested to see what you finally come up with- I like Hooks

Nic

you forge tools? its only fair i look around to get the best outcome/deal. for a 8mm thick style like mine, how do you reckon it'll cost?

 

[nic.]

you forge tools? its only fair i look around to get the best outcome/deal. for a 8mm thick style like mine, how do you reckon it'll cost?

Lots of variables- main one is size/scale, and then the grind/ bevel but I'll Pm you.


Nic

 

[_scorpio_]

there are loads of custom makers on here, and even more on britishblades. you could ask around to find the cheapest... or you could make it yourself

 

[_scorpio_]

you could go to 10mm and do a full flat grind...

 

[Samon]

Lots of variables- main one is size/scale, and then the grind/ bevel but I'll Pm you.


Nic

id like it to be thick, 10 mm sounds good actually, give me the added weight and thickness to split logs. and id totally want a decent flat grind on it to aid ease of sharpening and general depth of cut. but most of all id like a decent well made billy that will replace mt axe and machete.

 

[nic.]

id like it to be thick, 10 mm sounds good actually, give me the added weight and thickness to split logs. and id totally want a decent flat grind on it to aid ease of sharpening and general depth of cut. but most of all id like a decent well made billy that will replace mt axe and machete.

Couple of things spring to mind- 10mm would make it heavier. Full flat grind would make it lighter, you would remove very nearly 50% of the steel. Also full flat won't be pitted and rustic if its gound- would be all shiney metal.

A bit early in the design stage to quote I think!

Nic

 

[Samon]

Couple of things spring to mind- 10mm would make it heavier. Full flat grind would make it lighter, you would remove very nearly 50% of the steel. Also full flat won't be pitted and rustic if its gound- would be all shiney metal.

A bit early in the design stage to quote I think!

Nic

full flat grind removes that much? geez...a scandi would be better then i guess. the pitted rustic look is a personal thing, not fundiemental if it detracts any specs from the blade though, after all i want a working tool not just a shiny for the cabinet.

 

[Buckshot]

Full flat grind would also make a fairly weak edge in comparrison to all that weight
I'd be tempted to go for 6-8mm and convex the edge.
At some point if you're swinging this you will miss hit the blow and the stronger the edge the more likely it is to survive