MORA Knife ?

[Robson Valley]

At home or in the field?
In the field, take along pieces/sheets of 400 grit and 600 grit silicon carbide wet&dry automotive finishing sand paper. Wrapped around any mandrel and straight strokes.
At home, I use a 10X loupe under a LED light to inspect the edge. To decide which grit to start with. I'll go to 1500 with my wood carving tools then hone with CrOx/AlOx on some simple form of card stock strop taped to a flat surface or wrapped once again around mandrels.
For all of my carving adzes, I find that a tennis ball is a useful shape.

 

[Erbswurst]

After you sharpened your knife like this you will have a burr at the edge that you can feel with the finger or finger nail. It's usually just at one side.
You lift the blade just a little bit more and pull the edge similar as done before over the stone nearly without any force. Both side alternating 10 times, left, right, left, right, left, right.

Afterwards the burr is away and your knife as sharp as a razor.

 

[Forest fella]

A mate's just asked me to try and find out if a MORA ''Garberg'' knife fits a Standard Bushcraft / Woodlore knife as he's Brought 1 and isn't sure and wants to know if he is going to have to buy another sheath specially for this knife?.
Cheers

 

[Erbswurst]

Why doesn't he simply try it out?

I guess it fits, because the handle of the Garberg is more or less conic.

But I wouldn't do that, because if it gets whet the expensive sheath could mold to the shape of the cheaper knife.

Should he find a well fitting open leather sheath I would like to be informed about which sheath it is and where I can buy that.

 

[Forest fella]

Because he Hasn't received the knife yet, but he already owns a A Wright Knife.
That and he asked me to put the ? out there.
Cheers

 

[GreyDog]

What would be the simplest way to sharpen a stainless steel Mora Companion

I use wet & dry sandpaper. Starting grit depends on how bad the edge is. Normally, I'll only need a 600, then 1000, then 1500. I have got 2000 but never felt the need for it. Finally quick stop on belt with green compound. Technique: cut a sheet into 1/3rds. Take a piece of flat wood of similar size and either spray mount (re-positionable glue) or bulldog clip it onto the board. Lay blade grind flat on paper and work away from (not into) the edge. I do 10 or so each side or until polish is even. Each finer paper takes out the tiny scratches from the last, until you end up with a nice polish. Remember to lift the handle at the end of each pass to cover the curve/tip. Works on any Scandi grind.

 

[Robson Valley]

Grey Dog got it right. That's the guts of freehand sharpening.
I hold the papers down with dabs of masking tape. Gravity is your friend.

One other thing: paint the edge of the blade with a black felt marker.
Bunch of crude little stripes is plenty.
That way, you can see exactly what's been happening on the underside.