Mora knife pseudo scandi grind

[Bladeophile]

Some surprises in store on receiving my Mora Carbon steel heavy duty knife.
1. It did not arrive as sharp as I'd been led to believe regarding Mora knives.
2. Spine is heavily polished so no good for fire lighting.
3. The grind is not a pure scandi - presumably to ramp up edge retention as regards predicted usage in the field e.g battoning and other forms of abuse.

The spine problem was solved by filing 0.25 mm ish square to the spine and adjacent to the handle. Aprox 1cm shallow indent. Now it throws great sparks but doesn't look quite as pretty as it did! Nevermind.
All in all - it looks a wickedly good survival/bushcraft knife for the £15 or so I paid. I recommend.

But now to my main issue. Can anyone give any tips on how they go about sharpening a scandi with a very narrow secondary added. (so narrow I have difficulty seeing it but it's there nontheless.)

Many thanks in advance.

 

[Dougster]

You should be able to manage that secondary edge with stropping I would have thought.

 

[Dave-the-rave]

Mate it's known as a micro bevel. It's there to strengthen the edge as you guessed...http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29512&highlight=

If it's fine enough to be hard to see, stropping will sharpen it as Dougster says. I do mine by stropping the Scandi bevel and pushing fairly firmly into the strop, which is thin leather mounted on a hard backing (MDF). As the Scandi sinks into the leather the micro bevel will also touch the leather and compound, and will sharpen.

I also had a Mora Robust which had a secondary bevel so big I just sharpened it as such and ignored the Scandi.

Hope that helps.

 

[Bladeophile]

Thanks for your useful responses D and D. I will try to get hold of some thin leather and make a strop. This is certainly a departure from how I envisaged sharpening a Mora. Incidentally which color compound are you using with your strop? I have green compound for use on a buffing wheel attachment for my Bosch hand grinder. It's got me thinking..............

The discussion you pointed me to in your link re the landrover window is an interesting one. I'm guessing even if a toughened glass window wouldn't actually remove significant amounts of metal from an edge - at the least I feel it must consolidate the steel at the edge somewhat.
Similarly if the edge has rolled in places, it seems logical that a smooth glass edge could correct that rolling with a bit of luck.
Interesting ideas and thanks once again.

 

[ozzy1977]

I use autosolve on my strops gets the blade mirror shiny

 

[ozzy1977]

I recently received a mora robust in a trade on here, new and un used, the blade was a true scandy, no micro bevel that I could see I guess it all depends on the bloke on the the sharpening line how much he does. The back of the blade did leave a lot to be desired though still being roungh from stamping, easily sorted with a file though to get it to work on a fero rod.

 

[FGYT]

I recently received a mora robust in a trade on here, new and un used, the blade was a true scandy, no micro bevel that I could see I guess it all depends on the bloke on the the sharpening line how much he does. The back of the blade did leave a lot to be desired though still being roungh from stamping, easily sorted with a file though to get it to work on a fero rod.

there is no bloke its pretty much all automated and robots that's why they are so low priced Robots don't need a mortgage Kids and hobbies


http://www.britishblades.com/forums/content.php?104-frosts-factory-visit-pictures

 

[chimpy leon]

Thats strange. I own 8 carbon moras and all have been zero scandi grind, very sharp and none have polished spines, but rough unground spines.

Where did you buy from if you dont mind me asking?

 

[Bladeophile]

Hi Leon - It begins with an H ------ 7 letters. Seem to be almost everyone's favorite haunt for knives in the UK! I share your surprise. I absolutely was not expecting a secondary bevel, nor a heavily buffed blade all over including spine. One of the things that attracted me to Moras I'd seen was the sharp clean lines of the grinds on the blade. That's not what I got.

 

[chimpy leon]

They have quite a good reputation for customer service and I dont think there would be any hassle if you were to send it back if your not happy with it. Sounds like they sent you one someones already had there hands on maybe.

 

[Big Stu 12]

I know when I brought my mora it had a micro bevel, all be it small, I had the same discussion with a newbie last week end he said that they are scandi, but it had a very small micro on it...

all the new ones I have seen have a micro bevel..

Its easy to sharpen , just strop it, or take it to a full scandi

I would of thought they are all manufactured the same due to automation

 

[FGYT]

Proper traditional working scandi knife will be high ish ground slightly hollow ground (which will come out when sharpened on a flat stone)and have a Micro bevel

only the specialised carving blades are what we call zero ground

 

[Bladeophile]

I would like to make a strop for my blades. As others have said, it removes as little steel as possible. Makes good sense and I've been slow to follow up on this.
If I get a wide(ish) leather belt from a second hand shop smooth one side and rough on the other - is this ideal?
As Ozzy pointed out Autosolve works well. I've seen toothpaste with polishing compound in it used too. What else is there out there that I should look at?
Many thanks for your input - always so informative here on BCUK.

 

[Samon]

I would like to make a strop for my blades. As others have said, it removes as little steel as possible. Makes good sense and I've been slow to follow up on this.
If I get a wide(ish) leather belt from a second hand shop smooth one side and rough on the other - is this ideal?
As Ozzy pointed out Autosolve works well. I've seen toothpaste with polishing compound in it used too. What else is there out there that I should look at?
Many thanks for your input - always so informative here on BCUK.

My main strop is scrap veg tan leather nailed to a plank of scrap pine.. coated with autosol it also gives a great mirror edge.



leather is good for strops as it cna be used without paste but even cardboard can be used with paste. Yep, your cornflakes box with some autosol will make a fine strop aslong as it has a solid back!

 

[Bladeophile]

Thanks Samon - some great info. Didn't know that cardboard trick. A+ on that blade of yours. I have the wooden handle version. Seems to laugh off some of the toughest tasks so far. But then the decades have been a searching time on this blade.