Maul edge profile?

[Stew]

I’m going to change the edge of my maul, I think.

The minimum plan is to smooth the transition from the bevel to the ‘flats’ to reduce that initial friction when going into a round, allowing it to push through before popping the wood apart.

What are the thoughts on edge angle? I’m happy to go in stages reducing the angle over time getting that balance between strength and penetration so will just experiment if needed.

 

[Mesquite]

I've used the GB splitting maul and really liked it so I'd say aim for that Stew

 

[Stew]

I've used the GB splitting maul and really liked it so I'd say aim for that Stew
View attachment 78295

Ooo nice! That gives me more confidence that I can pull the profile back further.

 

[Mesquite]

Ooo nice! That gives me more confidence that I can pull the profile back further.

Let us know how you get on

 

[Toddy]

@Stew
I have to say that the original looks like damned hard work. It's not a froe so it's not meant to be 'blunt'.....that's more the edge that you'd expect from something that came with a motor on it to split through by main force. No ?

Mesquite's looks the business though Heft and a good wedge shape.

 

[British Red]

I've used the GB splitting maul and really liked it so I'd say aim for that Stew
View attachment 78295

Cegga sent me one he made that I've used a LOT. It has a similar profile. Those big coarse ones are rubbish if you split large rounds with steel wedges. Something like this makes the perfect impression to insert a steel wedge to begin splitting a large round. I have a video somewhere on the technique if anyone wants it. My big obtuse maul doesn't get many outings now definitely sharpen that one and thin if you can

 

[Stew]

Oh, I can!

 

[Mesquite]

The only thing you might have issue is the quality of the metal in your maul. You might not be able to thin it down quite as much as the GB maul but whatever you end up with will be far better than the current edge

 

[Ystranc]

It all depends on what you’re splitting, I have two mauls for hardwood and one designed for softwood...having said that the bit on that first splitting maul looks bloody awful (mass produced without enough attention) and likely to “bounce” if you don’t use enough force.
There is a fine distinction between blunt and too sharp though. Too blunt and it takes a lot of force that feeds back into your wrists, shoulders and back. Too acute and it will always be jamming in the log.
I would definitely sharpen that one up and round off where the flat grind finishes (exactly as you planned) however the thickness of the bit looks pretty standard for a splitting maul. When you’re re shaping it you must keep looking at the profile from above (as with your photo) that way you’ll have more chance of getting a good, even edge.