making a crusader cup lid! like mine1

RAPPLEBY2000

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Dec 2, 2003
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England
How to make your own Crusader cup lid!
(the same way i did, the easy way!! )

my crusader cup lid made from an old mess tin lid, it's been in use constantly over the last 2 years! (it's been painted it's not soot!)
ee508656.jpg


and another view of the lid (inside).
ee508613.jpg


i tried making one with some thin steel that involved heating the metal and making creases and all sorts of more advanced techniques i can't do well(and didn't! :( .
but the other option is to use aluminium, very easy to work, forgiving and lighter!
with the right tools it'll only take an hour or so!
and i shall tell you how i made mine:

This is how you do it!

1 crusader cup canteen(stainless steel would be better so you don't damage the Non-stick finish!!!)
1 find old cheep aluminium mess tin (not MoD shiney type).
1 pair tin snips, or hacksaw(tin snips are far easier on aluminium!)
1 rounded hammer(with a ball end)
an anvil or metal block to bash on, i suppose a smooth flat rock or concrete would work but not as well.
1 tin high temperature paint.
1 pencil
piece of A4 paper
metal file, or angle grinder ( be very carefull with angle grinders they are very powerful and are "Hospital ivitations" in the wrong hands! )
saftey goggles(metal will fly with a grinder!)
some saftey gloves (lots of sharp edges)
ear defenders (if useing machinery!)

1) use your mug as a template draw around the lip onto the paper, when done add 1/2" to 1" extra around the shape you've drawn. cut out the template!

2) mark out the template on your old mess tin, cut it out with the tin snips,leaving a few mm spare around it, keep the handle! (don't throw away the scrap metal you can use it for other projects!)

3) holding the cut metal firmly on your mug (you may need gloves) slowly tap it into shape the mug won't dent if you're careful, (i went to the trouble of making a wooden template but this way seems much easier!).
you may need to "work the metal" on a flat metal block a bit to get the top and sides perfectly flat.

4) with a ruler or steady hand mark around the new, lid lip so you know where to file down to, to make a straight edge, obviously goggles gloves :borgsmile and ear plugs if using machinery! file it down the edges(they will be sharp!) ,you now have a lid.

5) to make it easier to pick up when in use make 2 holes, in the lid, and either make a handle from the messtin handle like i did, or thread through some wire or even a piece of chain.

6) finally wash the lot and give it a couple of coats of heat resistant paint on the outside(it's potentially toxic :yuck: )


and in a few hours you will have a working crusader cup lid! for the price of an old mess tin! and some paint(make sure you don't paint the handles stuck! :aargh4: )

ok the paint, you don't really need to paint the lid, you could use the lid naked :eek: it would look good with a stainless mug! but remember it will eventually oxidise!!
I painted mine for 2 reasons 1 to match the rest of the non-stick set, and 2 black absorbs heat so makes the set more efficient!
and for those in the military it's far more tactical! :naughty:
so it makes sense really.
also it protects the aluminium from oxidising and more importantly if accidently left on the edge of a fire or stove, as it will melt if hot enough quicker than other metals!
make sure the paint job is a good one, and take your time, this sort of paint if matt will show of any inconsistancies :( !


if the sides(lip) are short enough you'll be able to slip it in with the mug in a normal pouch.

lastly try to make sure the handle folds down or in, or it could make packing away the lid arkward, take a close look at the pictures(above), my handle is "L" shaped and folds in on it's self for packing.

make sure you clean the lid when used, as food will splash onto it , you can wash it the same way you wash the rest of the kit! the paint won't come off.

and as they say on "art attack", "why don't you have a go!" :D
 
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addyb

Native
Jul 2, 2005
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Vancouver Island, Canada.
Rabbleby,

That's absolutely beautiful and I intend to try it. But I have a question for you:

I currently have two different tablets in use with my solid fuel stove, hexy and trioxane.

Hexy is great because I can get a boil in my canteen cup with no trouble at all. But it stinks to high heaven and I almost break a sweat trying to light it.

Trioxane is much easier to light and doesn't smell nearly as badly, I think it might burn hotter but the tablets only burn for about 7-9 minutes, not enough for me to get a boil going in my canteen cup that doesn't have a lid. But it burns a heck of a lot cleaner and doesn't smell at all.

Do you think that by making a proper tight fitting lid like yours I'd be able to get a good boil going with trioxane? Or is hexy my best choice? I'd prefer to use trioxane because it's just....nicer but if I can't boil water, coffee just isn't the same when it's lukewarm.

Thanks,

Adam
 

oops56

Need to contact Admin...
Sep 14, 2005
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proctor vt.
Well i found a fuel to take place of Trix hex and Sterno. Its a liquid hand soap that kills gems it got 62% ethyl alcohol in it. Just get a metal jar cover put some in it about 1/2 oz or so about 1 in. from pot i can boil 18 oz water with it its a little long on the boil 9 to 10 min. but it works
 

JohnC

Full Member
Jun 28, 2005
2,624
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Edinburgh
At the recent Loch Achray Meet I used isopropyl 70% alcohol hand rub for hand cleaning and used it in my crusader stove. It worked very well.

Rappleby, I like the lid, I made one in a similar way, I cut out a tempate in thin ply and hammered the shape out with a wood mallet, but I rivetted the handle on. It lies fairly flat, but I think your folding in handle looks neater.
The only addition I made was a 5cm line of small holes on the small incurve to act as a strainer.
 

RAPPLEBY2000

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Dec 2, 2003
3,195
14
51
England
JohnC i like the strainer idea, i might add that on myself! ;)

addyb as for fuel there are differing opinions.
meths is my choice, because it's easy to light/carry/ and it has other uses like a cleaner and can help feet harden for hikes!

trioxane, i've never used so i can't really comment, though iv'e heard it's very toxic.

hexamine, i've used for years though it has alot of problems, and toxic again! usefull because you can add bit's to a lit fire safely!

having a tight fitting lid would help keep heat in and make the whole kit more efficient, i can only boil half a mug, any more and it just won't.

oops56, i have some of that soap, burning had been suggetsed to me but i've never tried it! is it expensive?

addyb my opinion of the green heat gel is its trash! i have tried it and from the problems lighting it, minimal heat produced, and the mess left after i'll never use it again!

Biddlesby my first stainless mug was £2.50 from an army surplus stall! :D
 

RAPPLEBY2000

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Dec 2, 2003
3,195
14
51
England
i used to use a US army stainless mug for years till the crusader came along!

it's a good choice!

you can also get a cooker sort of cooker base for it but it's not as good as the crusader version i'll try and find a link
 

Ogri the trog

Mod
Mod
Apr 29, 2005
7,182
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Mid Wales UK
Ahem,
So now that I know which way up to use the cooker base :eek:
I'm trying to use it with the "other" sort of mug (where the handle folds under the bottom of the cup) but it just seems to jam on the bottom of the cup and stick there....

Am I missing something..... :(

Ogri the trog
 

RAPPLEBY2000

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Dec 2, 2003
3,195
14
51
England
i used to use that version of US army mug, i quite like the handle it keeps your knuckles away from stove flames etc! :rolleyes:

the only problem i see in useing the US type cooker is that the handle was quite heavy on mine and might tip over if no water was in it!

i'm not quite sure what your problem is...... :dunno:

if it's the handle getting stuck? it isn't, just pull it out and slide the little rattly slide to fix it(it probably will be stiff).
my handle was always springy! it often made a "bang" :eek: when putting it away! they're ment to be stuck when in transit to stop rattling etc.
 

Ogri the trog

Mod
Mod
Apr 29, 2005
7,182
71
60
Mid Wales UK
RAPPLEBY2000 said:
i'm not quite sure what your problem is...... :dunno:

Thanks for the answer Rappleby,
I can get the handle out and lock it into place with the little rattly thingy. My problem is when putting the cup into the top of the (inverted cup shaped) cooker, the cup gets stuck in the top of the cooker. Add a bit of heat and possibly soot and I end up having to drink the contents with the cooker still attached to the bottom of the cup till it cools enough to wrench it off.
I thought I must be doing something wrong. I have a modification in mind that involves drilling some holes near the top rim and using some stout wire as a cup support to prevent the jams that I've had up to now.

ATB

Ogri the trog
 

RAPPLEBY2000

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Dec 2, 2003
3,195
14
51
England
sound like you're have ing a problem with heat expansion :(

It's a doosey of a problemo! :confused: i should think that's quite annoying! and potentially dangerous.

So the cup is expanding more than the cooker, thus getting stuck.

Adding holes might allow the cooker to cool worsening the problem?
Another option a quick fix would be making a small vertical cut in the top of the cooker which would allow expansion( the same way most long walls and bridges have gaps built in!)

basically you want either the cooker to get "as hot" or "hotter" than the cup.
you could try painting the whole thing black even just the inside would help!.

the wire rack seems a good idea!

the more dramatic option involving a hammer :eek: would be to gently open up the top section of the cooker (ie stretching the metal) so the problem never occours again, though i don't know if this would be possible on your cooker.

hope that helps :dunno:
 

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