Longstrider strop and paste
- Thread starter Steve13
- Start date
-
Come along to the amazing Summer Moot (21st July - 2nd August), a festival of bushcrafting and camping in a beautiful woodland PLEASE CLICK HERE for more information.
Its what i use. Got one from Ian last year and given it some right hammer.
My only tip would be 'dont tickle it' give it a little bit of weight when your stropping, try and keep the edge at the same angle and dont cut the leather.
If you see big dark coloured marks on the face of the strop you know its working.
My only tip would be 'dont tickle it' give it a little bit of weight when your stropping, try and keep the edge at the same angle and dont cut the leather.
If you see big dark coloured marks on the face of the strop you know its working.
Don't use a lot on your strop, just a little, and clean off the last lot each time. Really good stuff to use
I have got the same kit and it is very good,as already said,don't be afraid to use a bit of pressure when stropping,and when the strop and paste becomes shiny after a bit of use you need to scrape the used compound off with a very straight edge(eg.steel ruler)the compound will flake off and you wont damage the strop,then just reprime it with new compound.
ANYONE WHO KNOWS ABOUT KNIFE SHARPENING PLEASE FEEL FREE TO CORRECT THE FOLLOWING ...
As I understand it, the reason why applying pressure works with this system is because the leather is thin (?1 mm goatskin?).
If you have thicker veg tan - say 2mm or thicker - then applying pressure could be counterproductive as you can create a 'wave' in the leather which will actually blunt your knife (even if the leather goes black because although you are removing metal - problem is it is metal from the wrong place)
So if you have a thicker strop then you should be gentle with it and use only the weight of the knife (or thereabouts) to get good results
As indicated - more than happy to be put right in the interests of understanding what used to be a black art to me (and is a bit less of one now!)
As I understand it, the reason why applying pressure works with this system is because the leather is thin (?1 mm goatskin?).
If you have thicker veg tan - say 2mm or thicker - then applying pressure could be counterproductive as you can create a 'wave' in the leather which will actually blunt your knife (even if the leather goes black because although you are removing metal - problem is it is metal from the wrong place)
So if you have a thicker strop then you should be gentle with it and use only the weight of the knife (or thereabouts) to get good results
As indicated - more than happy to be put right in the interests of understanding what used to be a black art to me (and is a bit less of one now!)
Elines ... To a degree you're right. I use thin, firm leather on the strops I make for sale, and use myself, for this very reason. Applying pressure to to thicker or softer leather with the knife edge will deform the leather beneath the edge to the extent that it can actually round off the edge as you work (where the leather is springing back up immediately behind the edge as it passes)
Applying pressure as you strop however, is the most effective way I have found of doing the job of fully polishing (and therefore sharpening) an edge as it makes the compound (paste/Starkie Blue/Flexcut Gold .. whatever) cut more efficiently.
You can spend half an hour or more lightly wiping the edge along a softer, or thicker strop, or you can spend 5 minutes doing it with a bit of elbow grease on a strop with thinner, firmer leather .... Your choice
You have to remember that you are only really using the leather as a holding medium (like a wick) to hold the compound in place so you can effectively use it to polish the edge of your blade. It is the compound that cuts the steel, polishing it. Once the compound is blackened with removed steel and begins to glaze over, you are best to scrape this 'used' compound off the strop and re-apply fresh compound. This will keep the system working at peak efficiency, saving you both time and effort and giving the best results.
It's very similar to using fresh wet-n-dry instead of a old worn, and clogged, piece. Better, cleaner, faster, and more efficient cutting is done with fresh abrasives, every time
It is for the very same reasons that I don't like to advocate the use of a mouse mat and wet-n-dry for sharpening convexes (or any other type of edge for that matter). The mouse mat is inevitably going to be softer than almost any leather you're likely to use, and stands a very good chance of rounding off the edge of a knife rather than sharpening it. A firmly backed abrasive medium gives you far more control over the angle at which you are finishing the edge.
Applying pressure as you strop however, is the most effective way I have found of doing the job of fully polishing (and therefore sharpening) an edge as it makes the compound (paste/Starkie Blue/Flexcut Gold .. whatever) cut more efficiently.
You can spend half an hour or more lightly wiping the edge along a softer, or thicker strop, or you can spend 5 minutes doing it with a bit of elbow grease on a strop with thinner, firmer leather .... Your choice
You have to remember that you are only really using the leather as a holding medium (like a wick) to hold the compound in place so you can effectively use it to polish the edge of your blade. It is the compound that cuts the steel, polishing it. Once the compound is blackened with removed steel and begins to glaze over, you are best to scrape this 'used' compound off the strop and re-apply fresh compound. This will keep the system working at peak efficiency, saving you both time and effort and giving the best results.
It's very similar to using fresh wet-n-dry instead of a old worn, and clogged, piece. Better, cleaner, faster, and more efficient cutting is done with fresh abrasives, every time
It is for the very same reasons that I don't like to advocate the use of a mouse mat and wet-n-dry for sharpening convexes (or any other type of edge for that matter). The mouse mat is inevitably going to be softer than almost any leather you're likely to use, and stands a very good chance of rounding off the edge of a knife rather than sharpening it. A firmly backed abrasive medium gives you far more control over the angle at which you are finishing the edge.
Last edited:
ANYONE WHO KNOWS ABOUT KNIFE SHARPENING PLEASE FEEL FREE TO CORRECT THE FOLLOWING ...
As I understand it, the reason why applying pressure works with this system is because the leather is thin (?1 mm goatskin?).
If you have thicker veg tan - say 2mm or thicker - then applying pressure could be counterproductive as you can create a 'wave' in the leather which will actually blunt your knife (even if the leather goes black because although you are removing metal - problem is it is metal from the wrong place)
So if you have a thicker strop then you should be gentle with it and use only the weight of the knife (or thereabouts) to get good results
As indicated - more than happy to be put right in the interests of understanding what used to be a black art to me (and is a bit less of one now!)
You are right about this,the leather on the Longstrider strop is very thin so you can get away with using a bit of pressure(at the correct angle of course)
On a strop whith thicker leather doing this may roll and remove the burr completely and dull the edge.
Silverback .... The strop should only be used (IMHO) to polish an already 'finished' edge, not to remove a burr.
If there's still a burr on the edge then by my reckoning you've not finished honing it properly
If there's still a burr on the edge then by my reckoning you've not finished honing it properly
Silverback .... The strop should only be used (IMHO) to polish an already 'finished' edge, not to remove a burr.
If there's still a burr on the edge then by my reckoning you've not finished honing it properly
Thanks Ian,that will teach me to post at the same time as the sharpening Guru :tapedshut
Hey, very interesting thread, most helpful.
Is Longstrider's website down? www.longstrider.co.uk is coming up as 'server not found'.
Is Longstrider's website down? www.longstrider.co.uk is coming up as 'server not found'.
I'm a wood carver with all sorts of edge tools from Stubai to Pfeil and
a large kit of carving tools which are popular here in the Pacific Northwest
(elbow adze, D adze and possibly 15 crooked knives.)
I have abandoned leather strops altogether because of the wave/pressure effect.
For some years now, I use no more than any sort of heavy card stock (as from pasta boxes, etc)
with CrOx honing compound. Economical and quickly replaced, some are stuck down on flat surfaces
with no more than tabs of tape to wrappings on 3/4" dowels and metal tubes.
The speed and effectiveness is entirely satisfactory.
a large kit of carving tools which are popular here in the Pacific Northwest
(elbow adze, D adze and possibly 15 crooked knives.)
I have abandoned leather strops altogether because of the wave/pressure effect.
For some years now, I use no more than any sort of heavy card stock (as from pasta boxes, etc)
with CrOx honing compound. Economical and quickly replaced, some are stuck down on flat surfaces
with no more than tabs of tape to wrappings on 3/4" dowels and metal tubes.
The speed and effectiveness is entirely satisfactory.
From my perspective it depend on what edge you have. If you have a wood carving edge (single bevel scandi) then i would use the cardboard. There is a lot of talk about this on wood carving forums, its often used on chisels also.
If you have a blade with a secondary bevel the leather strop is great to turn your micro bevel into a convex micro bevel or to sharpen an already convexed blade. Imho
Shinken has nailed it I think
Yes guys, my website is down for the time being, but I'm still up and running PM me if I can help with anything.
Note ... Latest batch of strops are black leather, not the old style pale cream colour. It's exactly the same leather in all but colour. Between us all we have used up all the cream stuff in the UK :0
Yes guys, my website is down for the time being, but I'm still up and running
PM me if I can help with anything.Note ... Latest batch of strops are black leather, not the old style pale cream colour. It's exactly the same leather in all but colour. Between us all we have used up all the cream stuff in the UK :0
Thankyou Shinken: Finally, someone suggests the function and application of a microbevel.
Also, I agree that it is something that I don't need. I've known of it for ages but couldn't see
the possible importance.
Also, I agree that it is something that I don't need. I've known of it for ages but couldn't see
the possible importance.
