Long distance biking (bicycle)

[Teepee]

Whatever you do, buy a pair or two of proper cycling shorts with chamois insert, not terry towelling-and keep them clean. These will transform your trip.

The value of these cannot be overestimated-the best kit and bike in the world is no fun with boils and sores where you contact the saddle. I talk from lots of bitter sack wincing experience :aargh4:

 

[TREETOP]

Whatever you do, buy a pair or two of proper cycling shorts with chamois insert, not terry towelling-and keep them clean. These will transform your trip.

The value of these cannot be overestimated-the best kit and bike in the world is no fun with boils and sores where you contact the saddle. I talk from lots of bitter sack wincing experience :aargh4:

Yep i'll second that advise . But i don't like my crown jewels out on display for all to see :Wow: so i wear them under a pair a baggy shorts or trousers

 

[Paul_B]

Interesting thread. I'm contemplating getting my old bike out after a few years and wondered if I could turn it into a kind of fast tourer. Its actually an Mtrax road bike (race division of Raleigh when I bought it cost me £450 back then about 10-20 years ago I think). It has the Reynolds 638 tubing (think the number is right anyway it was the best tubing at the time for road and tourers IIRC). The typical frame gear changers we had back then (the STIU shifters type were very expensive back then).

I was just wondering if it would be possible to add racks and panniers to it and if it would handle ok. I think it was the Mtrax 4000 model if anyone knows it. Does anyone know what weight is bearable to cycle with on their bike? I am a lightish weight backpacker and my base load is in the region of 5-6kg but is this too heavy for a road bike converted into a light / fast tourer? My problem is I have to work with what I have as I don't have too much spare cash these days. If its not possible then its not and I will have to save up but if I can just get away with racks and panniers, perhaps with some braze on attachments put on by a suitable person then It might be possible.

Sorry for a little hijack.

 

[Lithril]

For around the £650 these are excellent bikes http://www.ridgeback.co.uk/index.php?bikeID=150&seriesID=41&show_bike=TRUE and would serve you well.

 

[pastymuncher]

Interesting thread. I'm contemplating getting my old bike out after a few years and wondered if I could turn it into a kind of fast tourer. Its actually an Mtrax road bike (race division of Raleigh when I bought it cost me £450 back then about 10-20 years ago I think). It has the Reynolds 638 tubing (think the number is right anyway it was the best tubing at the time for road and tourers IIRC). The typical frame gear changers we had back then (the STIU shifters type were very expensive back then).

I was just wondering if it would be possible to add racks and panniers to it and if it would handle ok. I think it was the Mtrax 4000 model if anyone knows it. Does anyone know what weight is bearable to cycle with on their bike? I am a lightish weight backpacker and my base load is in the region of 5-6kg but is this too heavy for a road bike converted into a light / fast tourer? My problem is I have to work with what I have as I don't have too much spare cash these days. If its not possible then its not and I will have to save up but if I can just get away with racks and panniers, perhaps with some braze on attachments put on by a suitable person then It might be possible.

Sorry for a little hijack.

I thought the m trax were mtb's
Should be fine for touring, 5-6kg would make very little impact on the bike handling.
I converted a 1985 Raliegh Granada (lightweight tourer) with racks and panniers and a bar bag, it's turned out to be a really comfortable cheap tourer.

 

[sparkplug]

Hi Lasse,

I don't know if you have come across Horizons Unlimited before - they are mainly a motorcycle travel organisation, but have a specialist cycling section (the link I posted takes you there). These are very knowledgeable and experienced people who are happy to share their advice and opinions with you.

I hope it is new to you and that it is of help!

 

[Bravo4]

...., perhaps with some braze on attachments put on by a suitable person then It might be possible.

A set of rack clamps like these will work,

Might not be the ideal bicycle for touring but could certainly get you out there, and hopefully back.

This guy made it round the world back in the 70's, on a Schwinn I think it was. Quite an adventure.
http://www.amazon.com/long-ride-Lloyd-Sumner/dp/0811709523
If you have an interest in bicycle touring, this is a must read.

For bike shorts worn under regular shorts, I really like "Liner" shorts. More breathable and cheaper than a full lycra short.
http://www.pearlizumi.com/product.php?mode=view&pc_id=331&product_id=1366616&outlet=

Happy Cycling
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1dgE0LN6Z8&feature=related

 

[Paul_B]

Pastymuncher - Mtrax are MBTs now but back when I got mine MTRAX was a new Raleigh sub-brand. It was Raleigh's attempt to gain some credibility in the roady sector using a totally new brand name. IIRC Raleigh had a weakened reputation due to being known as cheap adult bikes or kids bikes. Anyway this brand had some rather good bikes of which my £450 version was the cheapest. The most expensive ones would have been good enough (if made to measure) to be used on proper races maybe not the tour but certainly classics. Please bear in mind it was bought probably 18 years ago so I'm guessing you'd have to spend about £650 to £1000 now to get one with the equivalent standard (by that I mean the current price/quality level that my bike was back then). Of course specs have improved as techology has developed so my bike is pretty low spec by todays standards. It is a reasonably light frame though. Still remember setting off from the bike shop with a massive grin on my face. It was an uphill road with busy traffic and my first experience with toe straps. Anyway having switched from a heavy Dawes I stomped down on the pedal to get moving, pulling on the bars only to send the bike out and into the traffic because it was soooo very much lighter than my old bike that it could be thrown around whereas the oldone took a lot to move it. Took me the 4 miles or so home before I got the hang of the lightness. A good bike is something else IMHO. BTW it was called a good trainer / entry level race bike. I had dreams of taking up racing but it only gets used once every 2 years at the moment.

Anyone taken up the bike2work scheme for getting a new bike? Is it worth it?

 

[TREETOP]

Anyone taken up the bike2work scheme for getting a new bike? Is it worth it?

I've not taken it up but i know people who have and they say it is, the hardest part is getting you boss to sort it out i believe

 

[Paul_B]

The manager at work who would sort it out is really keen on it. In fact if he hadn't bought his own bike just before the scheme started he would have got a bike with it. At work we all have bike to work calendars on the wall. The manager has the leaflets and details pinned in front of him on his wall. I reckon I could easily get it sorted out. The longest wait would be for the bike shop to get the bike in and get it ready for me to collect.

Just got my Mtrax 6000 road bike fettled for a bike ride this weekend. I'll be trying it out on the route I might take to work to time it and see how I feel doing it. If it all goes well will be doing my bit for the environment by commuting on my bike. That is 10-15 milles each way not in a car. The only problem is my road bike does not have those bosses on the diagonal tubes going down to the chainstays in the rear triangle (not sure what the techie name is for it). That means I cannot fit most pannier racks. I will probably have to get a post rack where it connects to the seatpost which means a max weight of 10lb or 4.5kg. I have looked at the wieght of two panniers such as the ortleib rollers or Carradice equivalents. They weigh empty about 2kg if the ortleib website is to be believed (german one not UK one with Gylside website). I would like a 13kg loading if poss so if anyone knows what I can use with two panniers to take spare clothes, laptop, paperwork and lunch or even camping touring kit.

 

[Lasse]

Here's the result of putting the new tires and rear rack on my bike last night:

Can't wait to go out testing it with luggage!

Paul_B, I'd look into those clamps mentioned by Bravo4. There are others available as well and sounds like the ideal solution. The carriers connected to the seat post usually aren't very practical in my experience and you can't use bags on the sides without them catching your wheel I think.

Cheers all,
Lasse

 

[Paul_B]

Thanks Lasse but I've talked myself into needing a £800 new bike with £100 to be spent on panniers and a good rack. Funny how you can use any old esxcuse to buy a new bright and shiny toy. My reasoning is that if I buy a good new bike I will go out on it more. The more it gets used the cheaper it will appear. Plus I can cancel my gym membership saving £45 per month which funny enough equates to a £920 bike bought through a cycle to work tax efficient scheme. Then after a run out to work at the weekend I have found out that it takes the same omount of time to cycle to work as drive. I like exercise so if I commute to work I save money. That means by buying a bike and gear up to £920 I will actually make money. How good it that? I'll be getting a good bike for free!

Anyway that is how I look at it. I know there must be some error in my logic but with my eyes closed I can't see it.

BTW anyone got a suggestion for a fast road bike that can take panniers and a rack and the associated weight that is drop handled with road gearing but still a good range of gears to get me up the hill when I'm loaded with about 15kg on the back wheel yet only costs £920 or less with rack, panniers, spd pedals and the shoes to use the spds? Perhaps a good lock too but if I just tidy my gear collection up I'm sure I still have that good u lock somewhere. Sometimes I think you can have too much gear, but then I wake up and it was just a nightmare.

 

[laro13]

Hello Lasse,

If you can read Dutch, this is a very good site/forum with lots of info:

http://www.wereldfietser.nl/phpbb/index.php

Good Luck,

Jasper

 

[Lasse]

Thanks for the link Jasper! Indeed a very good site for this sort of info.
But I already became a member of that forum a couple of weeks ago to find more information about this topic and helped me a lot deciding what to get

Cheers,
Lasse

 

[Paul_B]

In Belgium theres a very good company called Ridley. Since my last post I've upped my budget to £900 and will spend £100 of my own money on panniers, rack and guards. This was in responce ot finding a Ridley Crossbow cyclo cross bike. If you have that money spare I do think a good cyclocrosser is capable of making a good fast tourer. There are a lot of people buying cyclocrossers for just that purpose. One of my local shops has told me that all the specialized tricross bike sold in the last year were all sold to be converted into tourers, many were sold converted by the shop. That is a good bike too an cheaper. The frame and forks (with a shock absorber of sorts) is rather good and the same as much pricier bikes in range. Only got Sora gears though whereas the Ridley has 105 (two levels up and first of really good Shimano groupsets).

Another bike I like personally for converting into touring is the Fuji Cross Comp http://www.evanscycles.com/products/fuji/cross-comp-2010-cyclo-cross-bike-ec022174
from Evans cycles. http://www.evanscycles.com/products/fuji/cross-comp-2010-cyclo-cross-bike-ec022174

With ebing reduced in price it has brought a 105 front mech and ultegra rear mech into my price range. A tough frame with a higher BB and good components it is easily capable of being turned into a fast tourer. It has a 10 speed casette = 20 gears with only a two ring chainset. A compact IIRC. FSA cranks. PLus one big benefit IMHO is the drop bars. A serious must on tours IMHO. The range of hand positions means you can change them according to the terrain and to take the stress of the same part of your wrist throughout the trip. Not a minor consideration. Maintaining the same hand position on a long ride IMHO can lead to problems. I know in my case I have old kayaking injuries to my elbows and a lesser degree to my wrists due to excessive strain over many years. This leads to pain and aches on long rides. I have learnt to use the whole of the drop bars for comfort and it helps me.

I guess you've already made the decision and just upgraded your MTB into a hybrid for road use. It is a good way of using what you have to get to where you want to be. Over time you will probably end up buying a new one but after some years use of your new set-up you should have time to save up for something good and you'll probably end up knowing more about what is perfect for you.

 

[brancho]

I would suggest a change of pedals and shoes would make a real difference on that distance. You need clipless pedals and cycling shoes I think. I am sure there are plenty of bike shops in belgium.