Leuku in D2
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thanks, have had that piece of D2 lying around in the workshop for over two years, am pleasantly surprised at its performance!
testing the edge batoning through some seasoned ash and other chores. i thought D2 was supposed to be brittle and chippy but held up just fine. takes a bit more work sharpening but holds its edge!
not happy at all with the saber grind, more than happy with the steel though so gave it a re grind and full scandi
the original grind was 9 degree's per side with a secondary bevel, i reground it to zero with a 13 degree per side bevel instead.
I have only one knife in D2, a Swamprat Bogdog, but really like how it cuts. Didn't find that chippy either. Seems D2 is very sensitive to how you treat it. The folk that use it a lot on US forums (Nathan the Machinist springs to mind) claim that D2 knives really need to be treated differently compared to the industry standards for heat treating D2.
I am extremely interested to hear how you find it and how you get on for the maintenance side of things.
When the Spyderco BushcraftUK knife was still in prototype phase, I was loaned one in D2. Meant to be a Scandi grind, but was ever so slightly not flat, not even enough to readily see by eye, but hitting the flats on a stone didn't touch the edge. Sharpening it to a true flat single bevel was no fun at all. I got through a sheet or two of 120g wet and dry just roughing it in, and more time on a succession of finer grits and stones. Maybe a 120g diamond plate would have saved much time, but I still don't have one of those. I know some people sing high praise of D2 for Scandis, but that experience has made me a bit leery of any high carbide steel for that particular grind.
Hope you fare better!!!!
I am extremely interested to hear how you find it and how you get on for the maintenance side of things.
When the Spyderco BushcraftUK knife was still in prototype phase, I was loaned one in D2. Meant to be a Scandi grind, but was ever so slightly not flat, not even enough to readily see by eye, but hitting the flats on a stone didn't touch the edge. Sharpening it to a true flat single bevel was no fun at all. I got through a sheet or two of 120g wet and dry just roughing it in, and more time on a succession of finer grits and stones. Maybe a 120g diamond plate would have saved much time, but I still don't have one of those. I know some people sing high praise of D2 for Scandis, but that experience has made me a bit leery of any high carbide steel for that particular grind.
Hope you fare better!!!!
thanks, it was slow grinding the bevels compared with other steels iv used. it surprised me that it held a 26 degree scandi i normally use 30 degree yet still held up to normal use and some mild abuse without chipping, more testing to do yet though. i wanted to try another scandi in 3mm with a 30 degree bevel and see how i get on with it? as well as something with a secondary micro bevel similar grind to the hultafors ok4
it gets extremely sharp and holds its edge better than anything else iv used so far.
re heat treating im using the lower end of the austinetising temp and oil quenching followed by a spell in the freezer after quench -28c then two x's temper with freezer in between with the second temper 10c lower
it gets extremely sharp and holds its edge better than anything else iv used so far.
re heat treating im using the lower end of the austinetising temp and oil quenching followed by a spell in the freezer after quench -28c then two x's temper with freezer in between with the second temper 10c lower
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