Leather Work Tools

[Kepis]

Decided it's about time i did some more leather work, as i have a couple of new knives on the way and i want to make a couple of sheaths for them, but rather than use studs i want to stitch them, so i went to www.leprevo.co.uk to see what i needed, im still none the wiser, can someone list a starter kit of tools required encompassing stuff like thread, needles (what size), awls, stitch markers (that funny wheel thing) etc that would be suitable to get me started, i just cannot decide from the site what i need or more to the case what is suitable for what i want to do.

Appreciate any assistance.

 

[Jared]

Britsh Blades Sheaths & Leatherwork, particurally the Tiffers Tips sticky thread were tools are discussed.

 

[Bardster]

Decided it's about time i did some more leather work, as i have a couple of new knives on the way and i want to make a couple of sheaths for them, but rather than use studs i want to stitch them, so i went to www.leprevo.co.uk to see what i needed, im still none the wiser, can someone list a starter kit of tools required encompassing stuff like thread, needles (what size), awls, stitch markers (that funny wheel thing) etc that would be suitable to get me started, i just cannot decide from the site what i need or more to the case what is suitable for what i want to do.

Appreciate any assistance.

There are a few of us do leatherwork on here and I think there is a few threads on the subject here or on british blade, but I'll start you off
There are some kits available from people like www.theidentitystore.co.uk - they sell the tandy leathercraft range. Ring them for a catalogue as they dont do online ordering. The hand stitching kit http://www.tandyleather.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1118900&variation=&aitem=1&mitem=14
has everything you need to start and a good guide book as well @ £35.00

Or you can get the bits seperataly.

Needles - harness size 000
edge beveler size 3 to start with
overstich wheel set (comes with 3 wheels 5,6,7 holes per inch)
saddlemakers groover
4-in1 awl set
waxed linen thread or the stuff they call waxed nyltex is good too

 

[Kepis]

Perfect, thanks guys

 

[andyn]

Maver, im in the same boat - I rang Le Prevo and explained i was new to the subject they advised on some basic kit:

Pack of needle
Thead 18/3 or something
Beeswax
2" Awl
Overstick wheel

and a "how to sticth leather" guide leaflet for under £20 posted.

The lady, Pat i think was very helpful.

 

[Longstrider]

Bardsters list is pretty good for starters, but I'd add that you can't beat a good steel rule and a plentiful supply of blades for the knife you are using. I do a lot of leatherwork and for cutting up to 3 layers of 4mm harness leather I find that a Stanley knife really takes some beating. It has to be said that the genuine Stanley blades still seem to be the best out there, but even these loose their edge before long as leather is actually very fibrous and tough on a knife edge. You might also like to add an edging bone or wheel to your kit. A properly finished edge makes the completed piece look so much better. If you are going to try youre hand at making anything more than sheaths for knives you will also find that before long you will need to start punching holes in your leather for rivets or pop studs and the like. Of those that I have tried, the Maun rotary punch (6 different sized punches on a roatary head on a pliers-like gadget) offers the best value for money. These can be found at many places buyt one of the best priced Iknow of is Crown Falconry (£8.50) http://www.crownfalconry.co.uk/CROWN FALCONRY PRICE LIST2.pdf If you are going to be stitching the leather then you will need either an awl to make the holes with, or buy yourself some 1mm, 1.5mm and 2mm drill bits and use them. A little experimentation will soon show you which drill gives the neatest finish for the thickness of your thread and needle. If you do drill, take care to get the holes straight. A pillar drill is the best way to do it, otherwise you can have stitches that look fine on the front, but are all over the place on the back of the work.
I too use the Identity Store for most of my bits and bobs and have found them both helpful and knowledgable. (It's also only a 25 minute drive from home)

 

[Bardster]

Totally agree with longstrider - forgot the steel rule and stanley knife. I use a small knife i made mostly but my backup is a stanley that i strop regularly to keep its edge keen.

 

[ESpy]

Bardsters list is pretty good for starters, but I'd add that you can't beat a good steel rule

Can I add to that - get a flat steel rule, not the wibbly profile safety rulers as they'll put marks in the surface of the leather. Then stick a thin piece of cork sheet or carpet underlay underneath the ruler. For finished edges, I like to use an edge beveller - I think it's the size 2 Keen Edge beveller I'm using most at the moment - and the aforementioned bone folder (along with a wee dab of gum tragacanth).

I'd strongly recommend learning to work with just the awl, not drilling - it's an extremely satisfying skill.

 

[Rod]

I found a scalpel (a No.3 handle) easier to work with for finishing than a Stanley knife. I use a piece of Fallow antler for wet forming and edge polishing.

Hope this helps

 

[Big John]

I'd strongly recommend learning to work with just the awl, not drilling - it's an extremely satisfying skill.

I tried to get to grips with the awl but couldn't, is the key in properly supporting the work in a stitching horse / vice? Instead I use a hand punch, a pliers type device, like the 6 holed wheel punch described above, but with a single 00 size punch. It will only happily go through 1 thickness of leather though, so the process is : mark where the holes will be with the guide wheel on the top piece of leather, punch the holes, mark through the holes into the bottom piece of leather (with the awl - at least I use it for something!) then punch through the bottom piece and stitch.

The awl should give a better result then punching or drilling because the leather will close up around the stitching and give a neater, tighter stitch, so any tips on effective use would be much appreciated.

Apart from the hand stitching punch and everything else that's previously been mentioned, I've also got popper & rivet setters. I use a stanley knife as well btw.

 

[ESpy]

I tried to get to grips with the awl but couldn't, is the key in properly supporting the work in a stitching horse / vice?

Yup. The stitching horse (or smaller pony) supports the work, you put finger & thumb of the offhand either side of where you expect the awl to emerge, then push the awl through. A little bit of co-ordination is useful at this point My sewing improved immensely once I'd built a pony.

Keeping the awl blade sharp and lubricated with a little beeswax helps immensely.

 

[Klenchblaize]

Some years ago I signed up for part-time handsewen leather course at Cordwainers College London (half day a week for 12 months) This with a view to leaning the basics. It was the best £300 I've ever spent and I only wish I could now make contact with my teacher, Peter Wall, to properly thank him.

Pricking wheels are a dirty word at this level of craftsmanship. You will never better a line of stitching that has been laid out with use of a pricking iron. They come in a number of sizes to work with your preferred size of thread and either orientated for left or right facing work - as in "harness" or "portmanto". I use pre-waxed "tiger/ritza" thread for stitching, and untreated linen only when I need to dye the thread for a perfect match or contrast. Only the use of pricking irons and the RIGHT SIZED awl & thread will make your work "sit up" as it can and indeed should.

It is a wonderful thing to get involed in and brings great satisfaction.

Cheers

K

 

[taospard2]

I was in a remote location, away from any supplier source and needed to make some leather sheaths. They looked okay, but an edge beveler and some leather stamps would have been some nice tools to have.

So, what to do? Make my own!!! I heated up a 16d nail with a small household propane torch. Then using the side of an old axe as an avil, flattened the nail with a few blows of a hammer. I then used a triangular file to shape the proper profile into the flattened end. The groove was sharp enough to do the needed job and the sheaths looked so much nicer.

Then I heated up the head end of the nail and upset the head with the same process and then using a small triangular file I made a stamp with the look of a wolf track to it. That stamp was used on the outside surfaces of the sheath to give it a distinct...primitive...look.

 

[8thsinner]

Okay considering I spent a few years in the leather industry I should share a few secrets.

Cutting leather....
Whats this I hear about stanley knives.........Get yourself either an axe, ulu or saddlers cutter. At a primitive level.
If you want top notch and more modern get one of these.

The good ones aren't cheap but will last years of constant daily use, while I was working for over three years, we went through about 15-20 blades a year. And I wasn't the only one working there. The very best ones can be bought at john lewis or similar fabric supply shops. The blades are japanese and are very good, you won't even feel it cutting through 5mm leathers. The main reason ours didn't last long was a nick into something other than leather eg ruler on table. If cared for one blade should last you a year minimum.
DO NOT get the large spring version. get the 45 or 60mm version.

Glues
One of the best glues in the word is italian rubber glue. You spread it on with a spatula type edge, It dries in minutes to a sticky consistency, apply both sides and then join, once solid it is virtually impossible to seperate without getting a very good grip on it.

Leather cutting matt
Go to a kitchen/carpet shop and get a small bit of the toughest lino they have. 2mm is ideal. Glue it to a table top and work away. or use lino squares from a cheap shop.

Ruler for straight edges
Get a 2-3 inch wide aluminium or plastic one made for it about 1/8th inch thick, regular metal rulers work, but too thin might lead you to make mistakes.

Marking lines on leather
We used a marking crayon, it's not regular wax but I am not sure what it was.

We mainly used sewing machines, I would recommend it, but it's not an option for the hobby maker, so use the others suggestions.
What I use are nails, hammered through wet leather to avoid weakening, an awl is a decent working tool but very hard work by comparison. Using pliers for grip does help here though.

If you want to use thongs as I do, because it is more of a craft than simple stitching then you will need a hold punch. I have one multi sized screw on set which was cheap and I also have a japanese 2mm hole punch which has been going for over ten years, and will last another hundred for the hobbist.

Thong cutter, these can be bought quite cheap, the blades can be sharpened fairly easily with pliers and a stone. the material used is weak so wax the leather first to remove friction which will cut into the plastic other wise.

hope these few tips helps you out.