Leather stacked handle on Enzo Camper?
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here's a crude design(excuse my poor drawing and scribble)), I think brancho is trying to explain that the area "A" wont be long enough to get a good shape handle, plus the height of the tang "B" might make the stacks too shallow to be effective.
don't know this is all new to me and I am out of my depth.
don't know this is all new to me and I am out of my depth.
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here's a crude design(excuse my poor drawing and scribble)), I think brancho is trying to explain that the area "A" wont be long enough to get a good shape handle, plus the height of the tang "B" might make the stacks too shallow to be effective.
don't know this is all new to me and I am out of my depth.
I'm confused.
A leather stacked Woodlore type is quite feasible. Just have the blank made as a stick tang from the off rather than get a full tang and grind it down. You would either need to rethink the butt area or have a fairly large section of wood, metal, whatever if you wanted to keep the same handle shape.
Would it cost much more to have the blank made like that(specially I imagine from the most popular metal), heat treated etc? rather than the standard WL type which I imagine are already waiting to go out?
I guess what I was/am trying to achieve is a bush knife with the standard WL profile, grind etc but with stacked leather rather than scales. I would like to do the handle myself which is the main reason for the thread and for the experience, pleasure of doing it really. I am sure there is more to it but then I'm not to fused about the outcome and if it works that will be even better.
to add to that I would make the pommel and the stop/guard out of brass. shape to be decided, probably more along the lines of a KA Bar shape but whatever fits my hand.
I guess what I was/am trying to achieve is a bush knife with the standard WL profile, grind etc but with stacked leather rather than scales. I would like to do the handle myself which is the main reason for the thread and for the experience, pleasure of doing it really. I am sure there is more to it but then I'm not to fused about the outcome and if it works that will be even better.
to add to that I would make the pommel and the stop/guard out of brass. shape to be decided, probably more along the lines of a KA Bar shape but whatever fits my hand.
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I would expect the cost to be about the same for a stick tang v full tang.
If you find a full tang woodlore style blade that you want grinding down to a stick tang, if you cover the postage I'll thin the tang down for you.
It would be dependant on the holes in the tang being right and you would need to do a tinker with the end as you've sketched using a bolt extension (there are other ideas too)
I do think the Enzo Taiga is fairly close though
I think I got ahead of myself, I shoud have been a bit clearer This has been something I have been considering for a while, I think what I am trying to achieve was a wood lore/enzo camper "size" bit bigger than the trapper, but 3mm-3.5 thick blade with a stacked handle that I could get the blank and modify to suit the idea in the drawing.
I can do it with a stick tang and I have just had a search round for blade blanks and the choice is much greater than a year ago even. I would want the option to be able to batton the handle without fear of damaging the knife.
It is an experiment and I have about 8 projects on my mind at the moment so apologies if it isn't making much sense. I guess another reason is wanting something more robust than a stick tang although in real truth there probably isn't a great deal of real world difference.
I can do it with a stick tang and I have just had a search round for blade blanks and the choice is much greater than a year ago even. I would want the option to be able to batton the handle without fear of damaging the knife.
It is an experiment and I have about 8 projects on my mind at the moment so apologies if it isn't making much sense. I guess another reason is wanting something more robust than a stick tang although in real truth there probably isn't a great deal of real world difference.
Yes, the taiga would make a lot of sense to do first, I would understand a bit more and then try something similar to the sketch.
Nice job swotty, did you peen the end over in the pommel although the blade was already hardened?
I welded a small piece of threaded bar to the end of the tang and the tapped a thread onto a small piece of brass bar rather than pein over the end.
Ah, Woodlore profile but sure it could be done as a scandi if needed.
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=111660
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=111660
