Leather Finish Questions

[Pandabean]

Im just in the middle of making a sheath for my laplander saw and a couple questions have come to mind.

If I decide to wetform the sheath is it best to to this before or after a i dye the leather? I have a little drop of Golden Oak Leather Stain from LePrevo that I am going to use.

Also if using that stain can I use acrylic resolene as a finsih without any problems or would it be better using Beeswax?

Cheers,
Andy

 

[leon-1]

Leather stain I think is normally designed to be added to an Oil base (I am not sure having never used it), but it being effectively a penetrating dye you should be fine to use Resolene with it.

Dye the sheath first before wetforming, this means you can dye inside and out and you should still end up with an even colour as long as the whole sheath has been wetted out soaked.

 

[Pandabean]

Thanks.
So apply the dye, wetform and then apply the resolene?

How does a Hot/warm Beeswax Finish look compared to resolene or something similar?

 

[leon-1]

Thanks.
So apply the dye, wetform and then apply the resolene?

How does a Hot/warm Beeswax Finish look compared to resolene or something similar?

Hi mate, sorry for the intermittent replies, I am away from home and have a cold or flu which I am not sure and have got to the point of not caring (beechams doesn't shift it neither does Lemsip and we're looking at well over a week of that and talking Meltus to shift the rubbish of my chest). Right enough of that and back on topic (sorry for the temporary whinge).

yes, dye, wetform and then resolene

Both Resolene and Beeswax will darken the finish, however beeswax will darken the finish considerably more. If the beeswax is hot and penetrates into the leather it will harden the leather as well which is not necessarily what you want if you are looking at a friction fit sheath.

Better bet is to resolene and then use clear shoe polish over the top or buff with beeswax.

 

[Pandabean]

Hope you feel better soon Leon.The only thing I have found to work for a cold is that Olbas oil, but that really only clears the nose.

Ok I have just finished dying the leather but I am wondering if it really is worth wetforming it, as at the moment it takes the saw nicely and holds it in just fine.

Thanks

 

[leon-1]

Hope you feel better soon Leon.The only thing I have found to work for a cold is that Olbas oil, but that really only clears the nose.

Ok I have just finished dying the leather but I am wondering if it really is worth wetforming it, as at the moment it takes the saw nicely and holds it in just fine.

Thanks

I have menthol crystals and an inhaler for the blocked nose, but yes I know what you mean about Olbas oil as I have used it in the past. Thanks.:You_Rock_

If the fit is snug once stitched and the friction is sufficient to stop the saw from falling or bouncing out (test it by holding it upside down and giving a little shake) then why bother???

If over time the fit starts to loosen then wet form the sheath so that it holds the saw more snugly.

 

[Pandabean]

Oooo its shiney. What does the finish protect it from?
I was wondering if it makes it weatherproof. I dont yet understand that if I take this out and it gets wet what will happen to it.

Will post pics later.
Think I may make a matching knife sheath for my mora now. And then a belt but I don't have a long enough bit of leather yet.

 

[leon-1]

Oooo its shiney. What does the finish protect it from?
I was wondering if it makes it weatherproof. I dont yet understand that if I take this out and it gets wet what will happen to it.

Will post pics later.
Think I may make a matching knife sheath for my mora now. And then a belt but I don't have a long enough bit of leather yet.

The acrylic is a light waterproof and it also protects the leather from light scratches. From my experience it's better to resolene and then wax over the top, the resolene protects the leather finish and the wax protects the resolene.

If it gets wet then it just dries as normal, maybe takes a little longer. Normally if a sheath gets soaked it's through the mouth of the sheath and not through it's walls where the wax and resolene protect it.

If you look into doing belts either buy pre-cut straps or buy a strap cutter. You'll also probably need either an English crew punch from LePrevo (they're expensive at over £40) or a number 39 crew punch from Bowstock (£22) for cutting the slot in the belt. Beyond that either revolving punch pliers or a punch set (personally I prefer the punch set as I have broken pliers on thick belt straps before now).

Happy leatherwork