Knife vs Kukri?
- Thread starter Kieran725
- Start date
I don't think the bushcraft knife can do what the kukri can do and vice versa. It's more like axe vs kukri I think.
singteck
EDIT: oh welcome to BCUK
singteck
EDIT: oh welcome to BCUK
woodwalker
Need to contact Admin...
hi kieran!
As far as I can tell (having never used one), its more similar to billhook than an axe or knife. If this is the case then I think they probably can't be compared as I tend to use them as pair instead of one over the other.
just my thoughts,
woodwalker
As far as I can tell (having never used one), its more similar to billhook than an axe or knife. If this is the case then I think they probably can't be compared as I tend to use them as pair instead of one over the other.
just my thoughts,
woodwalker
i find the kukri to be a very versatile tool. i've got a military pattern one and a cold steel version.
i'll talk about the traditional version here.
i find that it can do anything that i can do with any other knife plus more.
i've carved spoons with it, dressed rabbits, chopped down saplings/small trees, made feathersticks, the list goes on.
with the small utility knife (on the sheath with the burnishing tool) i can do the fine tasks the larger blade can't manage. with the big blade i can do the heavy chopping tasks.
it also makes a fantastic draw knife, stripping bark with speed and ease.
the only complaint i have about the kukri is that the handle is a little too small for me.
in summary, it's a very useful tool. i'd feel comfortable going out in the woods with just my kukri for company.
i'll talk about the traditional version here.
i find that it can do anything that i can do with any other knife plus more.
i've carved spoons with it, dressed rabbits, chopped down saplings/small trees, made feathersticks, the list goes on.
with the small utility knife (on the sheath with the burnishing tool) i can do the fine tasks the larger blade can't manage. with the big blade i can do the heavy chopping tasks.
it also makes a fantastic draw knife, stripping bark with speed and ease.
the only complaint i have about the kukri is that the handle is a little too small for me.
in summary, it's a very useful tool. i'd feel comfortable going out in the woods with just my kukri for company.
In terms of axe type use, I get the feeling the Kukhri, like the machete, is better suited to choppping more tropical woods and vines with consistent grain, rather than the woods that have seasonal growth like we have up here.
As for use as a knife; it's bloomin' big compared to the usual Bushie type blades; not ideal for detailed carving...
As for use as a knife; it's bloomin' big compared to the usual Bushie type blades; not ideal for detailed carving...
The Kukri is the ultimate genuine bushcraft knife. The Nepalese up in the hills simply dont go outdoors without one stuck in their belts even today, IMHO you cant get a better cred than that, and they literally do everything with them from felling trees to lighting thier ciggys. (the thing that people call a burnishing tool is actually a steel for use with the piece of flint that is carried next to it ( i believe it is called Chakra or chekmak , Karda is the name for the small blade next to it)
If you want some deeper info look here
http://www.nepalesekhukuri.com/khukuri.html
http://www.nepalesekhukuri.com/making.html
I own two kukris one british army service issue and a gangawahl and they are unsurpassed as an all round tool - I wouldnt advise getting one of the modern western copies until you have tried out a true Nepalese (Not Indian) blade, the difference is quite amazing.
I really would say that if i had to choose one knife in a genuine bushcraft/survival situation a good Nepalese Kukri - traditionally made - would be the only choice.
If you want some deeper info look here
http://www.nepalesekhukuri.com/khukuri.html
http://www.nepalesekhukuri.com/making.html
I own two kukris one british army service issue and a gangawahl and they are unsurpassed as an all round tool - I wouldnt advise getting one of the modern western copies until you have tried out a true Nepalese (Not Indian) blade, the difference is quite amazing.
I really would say that if i had to choose one knife in a genuine bushcraft/survival situation a good Nepalese Kukri - traditionally made - would be the only choice.
I have an Angkola from these people
http://www.framar.fsbusiness.co.uk/
Beautiful construction, but i can't get on with it. I understand you should be able to shave with these suckers but i have a real problem sharpening mine.
It now needs a good sharpen and a full blade polish to cover up my hamfisted attempts
Anyone got any advice on how to sharpen using waterstones......or make me an offer to take it off my hands?
http://www.framar.fsbusiness.co.uk/
Beautiful construction, but i can't get on with it. I understand you should be able to shave with these suckers but i have a real problem sharpening mine.
It now needs a good sharpen and a full blade polish to cover up my hamfisted attempts
Anyone got any advice on how to sharpen using waterstones......or make me an offer to take it off my hands?
ArkAngel said:I have an Angkola from these people
http://www.framar.fsbusiness.co.uk/
Beautiful construction, but i can't get on with it. I understand you should be able to shave with these suckers but i have a real problem sharpening mine.
It now needs a good sharpen and a full blade polish to cover up my hamfisted attempts
Anyone got any advice on how to sharpen using waterstones......or make me an offer to take it off my hands?
Sharpen it the way you would an axe (and expect about as close a shave) RM's dvd has a good tutorial on sharpening axes with waterstones but the nepalese just use ordinary Whetstones the same that they use for sickles & scythes etc. You do need a round edge stone to get into the thin bit near the handle but if you use the edges of a flat carborundum type stone it will end up rounded anyway.
Dont ditch it whatever - theres too much effort in it for that - , if you really hate it that much PM me and let me know what you want for it
Cheers Nick
ArkAngel said:I have an Angkola from these people
http://www.framar.fsbusiness.co.uk/
Beautiful construction, but i can't get on with it. I understand you should be able to shave with these suckers but i have a real problem sharpening mine.
It now needs a good sharpen and a full blade polish to cover up my hamfisted attempts
Anyone got any advice on how to sharpen using waterstones......or make me an offer to take it off my hands?
Most khukuri come with a convexed edge. If yours does, sharpening takes a slightly different technique. Read this for sharpening technique: http://home.nycap.rr.com/sosak/convex.htm.
I have had no trouble chopping long-dead pine and assorted dried oak with my khukuris. No tropical stuff here.
I use Puukkos, axes and Kukris.
Not being satisfied with my GB Hatchet - because for its 700gr of weight it didnt deliver enough and the much better SFA is a bit too heavy and bulky to ncarry around all the time - I replaced it with this Kukri:
which I got here:
http://www.toratoratora.co.uk/
Shown is a 680gr WW2 Kukri with a wooden handle. By far not the heaviest one to be had, but the maximum I can use singlehanded.
In the top picture it is shown with the original scabbard, but a "Jagdnicker" and a ceramic-stick (glued into an old filehandle) replace the supplied accessories (chakmak, Karda). Total weight 966gr. The picture below shows it with a sheat of my own design and a SAK, total weight of this setup is 890gr.
Firemaking, building a shelter etc is doable with these sets and weight and bulk are acceptable.
Next in the line is a much lighter Kukri, a "Sirupate" design, weight around 485gr, for which I will make a new sheat with an added pouch for the SAK. Potential weightsaving is 200-250gr ands I have only to pack one item:
For general woodwork, nothing beats an axe like the SFA and LFA, but its not always necessary to carry one (and the knife to compliment it) for more basic needs.
Thats were a Kukri, which can be used as both, a big knife and small splitting-tool, really shines.
Not being satisfied with my GB Hatchet - because for its 700gr of weight it didnt deliver enough and the much better SFA is a bit too heavy and bulky to ncarry around all the time - I replaced it with this Kukri:
which I got here:
http://www.toratoratora.co.uk/
Shown is a 680gr WW2 Kukri with a wooden handle. By far not the heaviest one to be had, but the maximum I can use singlehanded.
In the top picture it is shown with the original scabbard, but a "Jagdnicker" and a ceramic-stick (glued into an old filehandle) replace the supplied accessories (chakmak, Karda). Total weight 966gr. The picture below shows it with a sheat of my own design and a SAK, total weight of this setup is 890gr.
Firemaking, building a shelter etc is doable with these sets and weight and bulk are acceptable.
Next in the line is a much lighter Kukri, a "Sirupate" design, weight around 485gr, for which I will make a new sheat with an added pouch for the SAK. Potential weightsaving is 200-250gr ands I have only to pack one item:
For general woodwork, nothing beats an axe like the SFA and LFA, but its not always necessary to carry one (and the knife to compliment it) for more basic needs.
Thats were a Kukri, which can be used as both, a big knife and small splitting-tool, really shines.
Hi,
It would appear that this is a topic that will continue for a long time keep the posts coming as I am learning loads. The feedback has been very useful. I am trying out a tora tora tora Bush Kukri on monday. I will let you all know how I get on.
It would appear that this is a topic that will continue for a long time keep the posts coming as I am learning loads. The feedback has been very useful. I am trying out a tora tora tora Bush Kukri on monday. I will let you all know how I get on.
I'd tend to agree, billhooks have evolved of the generations to cope as perfectly with the UK environment as Kuks do with the himalayan environment they evolved in.woodwalker said:
If a person is getting into big traditional blades, then it's a good idea to read over Jean-Marc's safety advice starting here:
safety
and continuing with his other articles to be found over at Outdoors-Magazine.
Deflections are a big issue with blades having lots of curvature, and so a person has to be very aware of safety, until skills are gained. My kuks all came with poor edges despite being better ones. It's essential to put in some work to remove any tiny secondary bevels which will further promote glances.
Traditional blades whether goloks, parangs, kuks, billhooks etc. etc... work better than a person will ever guess for the first few months of use. Eventually by accident the user will discover some version of the draw cut and find that it is not a myth. In the meantime though, it's hard to think of the blade sailing through a sapling without slowing when each chop cuts in exactly as deep as expected. One day, though, the seemingly impossible will happen. Then anything in the path of the blade is in danger.
I guess anything which is highly effective for cutting is dangerous. Just go slowly and carefully until things come together.
safety
and continuing with his other articles to be found over at Outdoors-Magazine.
Deflections are a big issue with blades having lots of curvature, and so a person has to be very aware of safety, until skills are gained. My kuks all came with poor edges despite being better ones. It's essential to put in some work to remove any tiny secondary bevels which will further promote glances.
Traditional blades whether goloks, parangs, kuks, billhooks etc. etc... work better than a person will ever guess for the first few months of use. Eventually by accident the user will discover some version of the draw cut and find that it is not a myth. In the meantime though, it's hard to think of the blade sailing through a sapling without slowing when each chop cuts in exactly as deep as expected. One day, though, the seemingly impossible will happen. Then anything in the path of the blade is in danger.
I guess anything which is highly effective for cutting is dangerous. Just go slowly and carefully until things come together.
That's probably a wise move. There are a lot of implications to carrying long blades in Europe - probably more than I realize from where I am.
bambodoggy
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
While Kukri'sare very good at Billhook type tasks don't forget that they were designed as fighting weapons and are still viewed as such by many around the world.
Maybe another (and in my humble, none knife fetishist opinion a better option) idea is to use a Saami Leuku. It's far far lighter than either kukri or billhook and will do pretty much the same work as they will and much more besides.
I have one with a piggy back sheath that holds the leuku and pukku both together and have found it cabable of any task I ask of it. I'm about to start writing a review of the Saami combo as I strongly believe it's one of the very best sharps set ups for use in our climant and enviroment.
Before anybody gets upset I'm not dissing the kukri...it's a heck of a knife but it's not the only option you have when you don't want to take an axe
Cheers,
Bam.
Maybe another (and in my humble, none knife fetishist opinion a better option) idea is to use a Saami Leuku. It's far far lighter than either kukri or billhook and will do pretty much the same work as they will and much more besides.
I have one with a piggy back sheath that holds the leuku and pukku both together and have found it cabable of any task I ask of it. I'm about to start writing a review of the Saami combo as I strongly believe it's one of the very best sharps set ups for use in our climant and enviroment.
Before anybody gets upset I'm not dissing the kukri...it's a heck of a knife but it's not the only option you have when you don't want to take an axe
Cheers,
Bam.
