IN desperate need of your opnions and help...

[Elessar]

Hi,

Right, now I have been through and looked at every thread that this is related to (I spent all day doing it) I don't need links to other forum posts what I do need are your opinions and advice which arn’t in the related threads, jus information on the different types....

Wondering what I’m jabbering on about??

Stones...sharpening stones and the set I’m on about in particular are Axminsters':

Japanese Waterstone - Combination 250/1,000G
Japanese Waterstone - Combination 1,000/6,000G

I plan too buy the two together as I am in desperate need of a good set of sharpening stones. I know how to use stones I have been using them for a number of years its just they've never been mine.......

Would these stones sharpen my trusty GB axe and Mora Frost Knife? I have a Fallkniven DC4 ceramic stone which kind of suits my field needs I need a more substantial home set for major touch ups…..
My cutting tools are becoming dangerious to use! Help me please….

Many Thanks

J

 

[British Red]

J,

They wouldn't be my choice, but they would work. I don't see the point in having two sets of 1,000 grit. My personal choice would be a coarse stone (around 240 grit) then step ups (say 600, 1,000, 6,000).

I also find that watersones are not particualrly intuitive or even suitable for axe sharpening. It can be done of course but the risk id either damage to the waterstones or the pronounced convex of the axe bevel. They work a treat on a flat bevel like a Mora but I don't personally use the Axminster set I have on axes - I find files and a Hoodoo hone work better

Red

 

[BorderReiver]

IMO,the Spyderco Sharpmaker is hard to beat for all round edged tool sharpening.

Knives,domestic and outdoor;scissors;small axes;chisels;plane blades;fish hooks, to name but a few.Fool proof scary sharp edges with the minimum of effort.

 

[spamel]

If you are gonna gop for wtaerstones, I'd go for higher grits than 250. That is really coarse! You'll wear your cutting tools away in no time!

Personally, I have three stones, four if you count the Nagura. 800, 1200 and 6000. They suit my needs, but the combination stone of 1000/6000 will do the job admirably as long as you don't smash your edge to pieces and expect to re-dress it quickly. It was what I took to Iraq and it kept my sharps sharp and I also sharpened really blunt knives from other members of my unit to a good shaving sharp edge.

 

[Elessar]

so were can i get a decent set of bench stones in the grits you have suggested if the other two aren't up for the job??? i.e which shops/whole salers

 

[spamel]

Axminster are the place. They have a wide range so you could get the combination stone or buy the two different grits seperately.

 

[Elessar]

and those two i mentioned before would do the job all-be-it not as well as some stones but they are still fine just not for the axe, for the axe i need somthing diffrent.....?

 

[spamel]

Depends on what you want to do. I was sharpening my axe on waterstones, it isn't impossible. I now use a Hoodoo for most of my sharpening to be honest! I rarely get the stones out and more often than not touch up on my DC4 and strop. It's a shame as I really like sharpening on the stones!

 

[Snufkin]

I'd go for a 1000 and 6000 waterstones. I've a 250 that I use when knife making and it wears very fast so you keep having to flatten it out again. I would get a cheapo set of diamond cards to use if you have to take major dings out of a blade, and then finish up on the waterstones.

 

[British Red]

Elessar, with a mill b@stard file (£6-7), a set of cheap diamond hones (say £3) and a hoodoo hone (free) you can do a much better job on your axe. I'm doing a complete re-profile and sharpen on one right now and thats all I'm using - I have both watersones and a ful GB axe sharpening system, but the kit above is faster and better

Red

 

[robin wood]

I would second that Red, waterstones are great but the Japanese spend nearly as much time dressing the stone as sharpening with them. They work because they are very soft and continually wearing away exposing new clean layers of abrasive but they take a lot of work to keep them flat. The coarser grits need to be soaked for a couple of minutes before use so the whole process becomes very messy. There are lots of different sharpening systems that work well for different people, ask what sort of person you are...if you are very precise about keeping everything you own pefect, clean everything and wrap it carefully after use you may get on well with waterstones. Personally I am the type that is rather rougher on my things so I use diamonds which will take more abuse can be used dry and stay flat, light in your pack too. I do use a king brand 6000 grit waterstone for a finer finish, it is much harder so requires less maintenance and does not need the presoak of the coarser grits.