Just got one of these for my Fiskars axe from the Ray Mears site. Thing is I have a fair idea what to do with it but it does have instructions on the packet in Swedish. Does anyone know what they say or have official instructions to pass on? I'd hate to miss out on something or do something wrong. Thanks
Gransfors Bruks Axe Stone
- Thread starter Danceswithhelicopters
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I think you are best using a circular motion and one side is coarse the other fine. That is as complicated as it gets. The rubber cup acts as a grip. make sure you soak it in water and splash the fine side as you are using it.
Don't leave it soaked in the winter or it will freeze and split.
Don't leave it soaked in the winter or it will freeze and split.
tenbears10 said:
Totally correct. The side with arrows is the coarse side, the side with dots is the fine.
I soak mine for about 5 minutes. Great piece of kit.
It is the puck style one. Is it OK to use it at right angles to the edge to get rid of nicks? Or should a metal file be used first? Thanks for the answers so far.
Danceswithhelicopters said:
DON'T USE A FILE!!!! Use the puck at right-angles to the edge.
I knocked my axe when I found a stone in the middle of a log and used the coarse side to grind the edge flat and the re-shape. Took about 10 minutes.
Then use the fine side to sharpen.
W
Walkabout
Guest
Keep rotating it in your hand as you use it so you wear it evenly. I wouldnt use it for removing nicks as you'll knacker it out pretty quickly, stick to a file for that.
Walkabout - I've used mine a fair bit and Its still going strong. Its deigned to last a long time and mine looks liek its got years of life yet.
W
Walkabout
Guest
I've wondered about this stone for a while now. GB seem to know what they are about, but the stone looks tiny. Will it really last very long?
Dave
Dave
They should last years. The puck is made of the same stuff as the stone I got from my grandfather, which is now about 50yrs old, and i still use it for my machete, my gollock and my garden axe.
I think the gb axe stone is brilliant - I use mine for both axe and knife.
On a axe use a circular motion as mentioned as this will help maintain the slightly convex shape to the bits edge. (watch your fingers)
On your knife use it flat and maintain full contact with the bevel.
Strop both after sharpening.
On a axe use a circular motion as mentioned as this will help maintain the slightly convex shape to the bits edge. (watch your fingers)
On your knife use it flat and maintain full contact with the bevel.
Strop both after sharpening.
Thank you gentlemen, I should have known it would be good if GB put their name to it. Perhaps I feel an order coming on!
Dave
Dave
It says in the instructions not to use oil or water on the round "dry" stone.
I have taken this to mean the round two sided stone.
Different stone :?:
I have taken this to mean the round two sided stone.
Different stone :?:
The orignal Swedish instructions I have say that you must use the stone EITHER as a wet stone or a dry stone and not both.
If you use it as a wet stone, the slurry that builds up helps to reduce the 'cutting time' when sharpening.
If you use it as a wet stone, the slurry that builds up helps to reduce the 'cutting time' when sharpening.
The water also helps to carry away the particles of metal removed, in the slurry, and stops them becoming embedded in the pores of the stone, thus reducing its efficiency.
Just spent a happy 15 minutes avoiding studying and sharpening the edge on my well used Fiskars Axe. I soaked the puck and used the rough side first edge on to the blade to remove a couple of dings about 1 to 2 MM deep. It worried me at first as the edge bit into the stone and left grooves but I rotated the stone and built up a slurry and the nicks and fairly soon went. I then continued with the rough side in a circular motion freehand using the original bevel as a guide to get the angle right. I then finished off with the smooth side and had an edge sharp enough to take thin wafers from the flat side of a plank but also felt fairly robust. The stone showed no grooves anymore.
All-in-all a simple but very well designed bit of kit-how Swedish! Right size, easy to use, good container (Protects the puck, shows which side is which, makes it easy to hold, keeps the slurry away from clothes etc)
All-in-all a simple but very well designed bit of kit-how Swedish! Right size, easy to use, good container (Protects the puck, shows which side is which, makes it easy to hold, keeps the slurry away from clothes etc)
The actual package text was translated for me by Hans, a Swedish forum friend a while back. Here is that translation.....and finally his comments about it...
Att slipa en yxa. Rengor yxbladet fran smuts och kada innan du borjar. Slipytorna fylls annars igen och forlora bettet. Vid stora skador borja med Yxfilen. Vid mindre skador och normalt slitage anvands den grova sidan av Yxstenen. Sten anvandes normalt med vatter ned kan anvandas torr....
How to sharpen an axe. Make sure that the blade is clean and that there is no dirt or resin on it before you start. The abrasive surfaces will otherwise clog and become less effective. If the axe is badly damaged, you should start with an axe file. If it is worn from normal usage, and the damage is of a lesser degree, you should use the coarse side of the Yxsten. The stone is normally used with water, but can be used dry.
Arbeta i cirkulara rorelser mot eller fran eggen med latt tryck. Emellanat bor Yxstenen roteras i handen for att behalla sin plana yta och rengoras fran metallspan; blas, borsta eller skolj med rinnande vatten. Slutligen, med hjalp av den fina sidan av Ystenen skapas dan ratta skarpan pa eggen.
Work in circular motions towards or backwards against the edge, using light pressure. Every now and then the Yxsten needs to be rotaded in your hand in order to keep the surface flat. To clean the surface of metal grindings(?) blow or brush it, or rinse in water. Finally, by using the fine surface of the Yxsten, the proper sharp edge is created.
I'd have to say it is written in quite crappy Swedish, but perhaps smiths have better things to hone than their writing skills, Hans.
:rolmao:
Att slipa en yxa. Rengor yxbladet fran smuts och kada innan du borjar. Slipytorna fylls annars igen och forlora bettet. Vid stora skador borja med Yxfilen. Vid mindre skador och normalt slitage anvands den grova sidan av Yxstenen. Sten anvandes normalt med vatter ned kan anvandas torr....
How to sharpen an axe. Make sure that the blade is clean and that there is no dirt or resin on it before you start. The abrasive surfaces will otherwise clog and become less effective. If the axe is badly damaged, you should start with an axe file. If it is worn from normal usage, and the damage is of a lesser degree, you should use the coarse side of the Yxsten. The stone is normally used with water, but can be used dry.
Arbeta i cirkulara rorelser mot eller fran eggen med latt tryck. Emellanat bor Yxstenen roteras i handen for att behalla sin plana yta och rengoras fran metallspan; blas, borsta eller skolj med rinnande vatten. Slutligen, med hjalp av den fina sidan av Ystenen skapas dan ratta skarpan pa eggen.
Work in circular motions towards or backwards against the edge, using light pressure. Every now and then the Yxsten needs to be rotaded in your hand in order to keep the surface flat. To clean the surface of metal grindings(?) blow or brush it, or rinse in water. Finally, by using the fine surface of the Yxsten, the proper sharp edge is created.
I'd have to say it is written in quite crappy Swedish, but perhaps smiths have better things to hone than their writing skills, Hans.
:rolmao:
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