good stainless bushcrafter?

[frogfish]

Hi!

As I live in swedish lappland I tend to make my own puukos. Handforked carbon-blades (2-3 mm thick, about 8 cm long) with a nice antler/wood handle.
So far I never encountert rust problems and was always very satisfied with the performance.

I´m now moving house to a tropical environment and face myself with the problem to change my knifehabits...

I like the performance of G10 steel. Was never real taken by Fällkniven because of its bad cutting ability and weight.
I reshaped a F1 and like the performance a lot. It´s getting a real cutter...

But still the blade is far to thick, long and heavy...

The WM1 has a nice blade but the handle wasn´t make for working.

Has any of you tips or suggestions what kind of solution could fit me?


Thank you very much!!!

Heiko

 

[Hoodoo]

How about a stainless Brusletto from Ragweed Forge ?

 

[addyb]

And once again, Hoodoo beats me to the punch.

Yes, I'd say go for 12c27 Sandvik. It's goooooooood steel and you won't be disapppointed. And at 58hrc it's hard enought to cut well and also soft enough that you can actually sharpen it.

Adam

 

[Hoodoo]

And once again, Hoodoo beats me to the punch.

Just cuz I'm old, don't mean I'm slow. I got the fastest mouse in the West.

 

[EdS]

Hoodoo said

I got the fastest mouse in the West

only because you've got a collection of carving knives though.

 

[scruff]

How about a Frosts Mora in stainless or an Iisakki Järvenpä puukko in stainless?

I have the IJ in carbon and its my most used knife by a long chalk. I'm sure the stainless would be equally as good.

An inexpensive Mora though would be a good way to see what you get on with.

 

[Bear Claw Chris Lappe]

The karasuando Galten in a great knife!

 

[addyb]

Mora's are funny knives. The first time I ever saw one I was like "Wow, what a cheap piece of junk. Wooden handles, what good is this knife?" and then I bought one and found out for myself just how great they are.

It's odd how such a fantastic tool can look as it does. My Clipper has bright neon orange handles and the sheath looks like it was beaten with an ugly stick. But when the chips are down (wood chips that is) it takes and holds an edge like there's no tomorrow. And that reason is why I bought it. Appearances can really be deceiving.

Adam

 

[leon-b]

yes i have recently got a clipper in stainless
havent had a cance to test it yet

 

[frogfish]

Thank you for the tips.

I don´t like the production line that much of the scandinavian knifemakers. It´s realy often a bit "fast made"
And if I have a scandinavien type tang I would like to make the hole by myself that I know it´s proper done. They dont spent 2 hour filing the shape of the hole so that it´s fitting perfect, they just take a bigger drill...ánd fill the rest with epoxy.

I think I will try to make my first fulltang knife with a remodeled WM1 blade.

Thank you a lot,
Heiko

 

[John Boy]

My Alan Wood bushcrafter with RWL34 blade and micarta handle is a great knife and would be ideal. Same as this one: http://www.bushcraftuk.com/community/showthread.php?t=13015

 

[BOD]

My Frost's Mora spends all of its time in a tropical environment gets fully wet and is poked into the sand on beaches. Av. humidity is 93%

The environment here is rainforest peat swamp mangrove and beach and it does okay. Some rust sometimes develops on the wording on the blade but other wise its is okay.

But why not just use carbon steel and let it develop a patina of sap, grease and dirt like my parang. Won't rust much if you wipe it with oil.

Forget the idea of a leather sheath unless you enjoy making them.