Good quality knife sharpening?

[neil1111]

Hey, I'm not sure if this is in the right place or not. I have a Casstrom No.10 forest knife that's a few years old now, the blade has seen a fair amount of use but, due to my learning to sharpen I've slowly given it a slightly convex edge and try as I might (two hours in now, perhaps I haven't learned to sharpen quite as much as I thought ) I can't get it to go back to a true scandi and I was wondering if anyone here could recommend someone who would be able to true it so I can keep the edge from now on?

Thank you in advance

 

[Mesquite]

FGYT, Dave Budd, Longstrider, Robevs are some of the makers who offer knife sharpening and are possible to contact on the forum.

Alternative you can ask over on British Blades.

My apologies if I forgot any other maker who offers sharpening.

 

[Nice65]

Longstriders sharpening is the stuff of legend. But he seems to have been off the radar for a long time now.

Stew might help you out in addition to those above. FGYT wasn't about when I passed his place last week and his mobile was switched off. Might be away.

 

[Robson Valley]

You need somebody with a jig and a power sharpening set-up to re-establish the bevel.
Make absolutely certain that they are instructed clearly NOT to put any secondary bevel on the edge.
If you want that, you can do that.

Seems the UK is crawling with good bladesmiths. Very, very few here.
Pick a few and call. Cheap research.

 

[Mesquite]

You need somebody with a jig and a power sharpening set-up to re-establish the bevel.

Actually you don't.

I've seen several people who know exactly what they're doing and have been doing it long enough that they've built up precise muscle memory to re establish the bevel freehand.

One of the four that I've named is able to without any trouble at all.

 

[Robson Valley]

You should give it serious consideration. For speed, precision and price.

I can do it. Freehand was how I was taught. The learning took a long time.
Farrier's blades are normally around 25 degrees total included bevel.
I'll keep the scandi and take the bevel down to 12 degrees for wood carving.
The first dozen were awkward. Six more on the bench for this afternoon.

 

[neil1111]

Thank you for the suggestions. I've found two websites that state that they do not do scandi grinds and the few others haven't said anything about bushcraft type knifes, they're mainly kitchen knives. All I'm looking for is for the grind to be flattened back to a true scandi so I can keep it true on my new stones when they get here, as all I'm doing at the moment is compound the problem!

thanks guys! :You_Rock_

 

[Robson Valley]

I should point out that for what I intend to do, I clamp the knife to the bench and move the abrasive.
Everything from chainsaw files and oil stones to 2000 grit fine sand paper.
I have a stiff card with 12 degrees drawn on it which stands at my work place for me to follow.

Job #2 =
I'll start this afternoon with 2 15cm chinese slicing cleavers. Like $8.00 (4BPS?) each.
Ugly as hello and great steel. 40 degrees on one side, 20 on the other.
Expect total included bevel to be 20 when I'm done. Kind of fun, actually.