forging bug....carving knife

forginhill

Settler
Dec 3, 2006
678
74
52
The Desert
Sometimes I need a break from the carving. Can't have too many carving knives. Used some steel I scavenged about eleven years ago while visiting family across the country. It's a special little stash.

Forged to knife blank size...



 

Robson Valley

On a new journey
Nov 24, 2014
9,959
2,668
McBride, BC
What's your thinking = something like a Mora #163 or something surface hafted like a Pacific Northwest native J-blade carving knife or maybe Mocotaugan?
Anyway, your striking accuracy is pretty dang good.
 

forginhill

Settler
Dec 3, 2006
678
74
52
The Desert
More's a comin' Mesquite...

Robson....along the lines of Nic Westerman and Mora....

Got two blades out of this piece and marked where I want the bevels.



I filed in the bevels with three different grades of file.



Next some sanding, starting with 150 and working up to 600.



 

forginhill

Settler
Dec 3, 2006
678
74
52
The Desert
Thanks, crosslandkelly, redneck, and richardhomer.

I've been experimenting with this tang method and have been very pleased with its strength. To me a tang needs to be strong enough but not too labor intensive. I'm always trying to find that happy medium. The one larger hole is for a pin. The smaller holes are for the epoxy to fill.



Everything is glued up...

 

slowworm

Full Member
May 8, 2008
2,121
1,070
Devon
Very inspirational, tempted to have a go if I can sort out some form of forge. Although my stash of useful metal is only about 8 years old.:lmao:

Dig you cut the blades out with a hacksaw? I assume there's no neat to heat treat as they've not been affected by heat after forging?
 

forginhill

Settler
Dec 3, 2006
678
74
52
The Desert
Glad to hear you guys are feeling some fire too...

Slowworm, :). On the heat treating....oops, I missed that.

So, with the first blade, I quenched it in pre-warmed canola oil and tempered it. I noticed a slight warp, which I tried to straighten. Bad idea.... However, it did give me a glimpse into the structure of the grain. I didn't like how coarse it was. This isn't any kind of fine steel, but I knew it could be better. I used that first blade (which I broke) to do a series of tests. I finally discovered that I got the finest grain structure with a brine quench rather than oil. So that's what I did with the second blade. The last two pics above are the blade after the heat treat. Below is a pic of the blade just before quenching. The Japanese coat their blades with clay before quenching in water. It makes for a more even cooling by preventing air bubbles from forming on the steel during the quench. I'm just playing around with all of this. Of course, a quality blade can be made much more simply.

 

Robson Valley

On a new journey
Nov 24, 2014
9,959
2,668
McBride, BC
Rusty files, lawnmower blades and truck leaf springs are the trendy steel sources here.
The "shorty" pieces could still make good whittling blades?
I like reading about the experiments. Maybe not the result that you wanted or expected but useful info, anyway.
Thanks for the journey.
 

Muddypaws

Full Member
Jan 23, 2009
1,114
355
Southampton
Great looking knife! Also thanks for the useful information, which will be filed away for future reference, should I ever decide to have a go at hot metal bashing (I really want to now).
 

forginhill

Settler
Dec 3, 2006
678
74
52
The Desert
Thanks, Robson and Muddypaws...

Finished her up. I've tried it on a spoon, and she seems pretty decent. Already itching to make another one... I think I'll use an old file for steel.

 

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