Flint and steel woes

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Suffolkrafter

Settler
Dec 25, 2019
525
464
Suffolk
I'm looking for some tips on using flint and steel.
I recently bought a 'pskook' one, one of those rectangular shaped steels with a divot for use as a bow drill bearing block. I decided I needed a break from bow drill and thought this would be worth a try, as I already have amadou and char cloth prepared, as well as an abundance of flint.
Well, I have found it surprisingly difficult to generate decent sparks with it. I find the first few strikes will generate some meagre sparks (steel striking down on the flint), but soon after, the flint edge bluntens and that puts an end to it. I've tried varying the striking angle but without a great deal of success. I've managed to light some charcloth once, but couldn't quite get the Amadou to take the spark.
Any advice will be much appreciated. I had anticipated something of an inferno after a single strike. That's what happens when you watch too much YouTube.
 

gra_farmer

Full Member
Mar 29, 2016
1,800
1,019
Kent
Is your flint dug up from the ground, rather than laying on the surface....frost and weathering equal poor flint for sparks.

I can get nice sparks from blunt ish edges of flint
 
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Suffolkrafter

Settler
Dec 25, 2019
525
464
Suffolk
Yes they are certainly a bit weathered I would say, scavenged from various places and dug up from the garden. I hadn't considered that quality of flint might vary.
 

C_Claycomb

Moderator staff
Mod
Oct 6, 2003
7,353
2,364
Bedfordshire
I know that weathering of flint makes it poor for knapping tools. It tends to have more fault lines, be weaker than stuff that has not been exposed. That said, I think it takes a long time. A few years above ground doesn't do much to fire starter flint, maybe because we get so few hard frosts in recent years. I have had reasonable success with flint from driveway shingle. The black flint is definitely better than the grey stuff in my experience.

Striking sparks from steel is a machining operation. A sharp edge is better, but equally important is that the edge is supported. Look at the clearance angles used by the tools used on metal turning lathes. Say an edge of 80 degrees. If the flint edge is more like an axe or knife it will dull quickly.
 

punkrockcaveman

Full Member
Jan 28, 2017
1,457
1,512
yorks
I know that weathering of flint makes it poor for knapping tools. It tends to have more fault lines, be weaker than stuff that has not been exposed. That said, I think it takes a long time. A few years above ground doesn't do much to fire starter flint, maybe because we get so few hard frosts in recent years. I have had reasonable success with flint from driveway shingle. The black flint is definitely better than the grey stuff in my experience.

Striking sparks from steel is a machining operation. A sharp edge is better, but equally important is that the edge is supported. Look at the clearance angles used by the tools used on metal turning lathes. Say an edge of 80 degrees. If the flint edge is more like an axe or knife it will dull quickly.

What he said :) I've had the same experiences. The light grey flint I've found tends to be super brittle, almost soft like a daim bar.

I've not had loads of experience with flint but I agree with the dark stuff, if you can find a bigger nodule I think that helps. Probably because it has been knocked about less, I find my stuff on the yorkshire coast though so it tends to be lucky if I find a good piece.

It might be that you need to strike harder. Something I learned with char cloth is to not have it too close to the edge. Don't ask me why it works but try it.
 

rancid badger

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
These are steels I made from old files;

Most of them work no bother but the odd one wasn't tempered quite right!


My flint is all collected either from fields or else the beach then broken down into useable bits. I never have any issues with the flint it's always the steel that seems to be "off" as when I re temper the steel, I get sparks eventually. Only other issue I get is with the charcloth. It's got to be bone dry and I find 100% cotton to work best for me.

Steve
 

MikeE

Full Member
Sep 12, 2005
1,057
54
66
Essex
I usually use a bigger piece of flint and support the charcloth on top while striking downwards with the steel at the correct angle depending on the flint edge. Usually one or two sparks land on the cloth and can be blown to an ember. I've taught scouts and even more unlikely.......other leaders to be successful.
 
Aug 12, 2020
9
8
44
Northern Sweden
The way Im taught to make them, you shouldnt temper them at all, just quench
These are steels I made from old files;

Most of them work no bother but the odd one wasn't tempered quite right!


My flint is all collected either from fields or else the beach then broken down into useable bits. I never have any issues with the flint it's always the steel that seems to be "off" as when I re temper the steel, I get sparks eventually. Only other issue I get is with the charcloth. It's got to be bone dry and I find 100% cotton to work best for me.

Steve
 

Suffolkrafter

Settler
Dec 25, 2019
525
464
Suffolk
Resurrecting an old thread of mine... I bought a new steel from ravenforge today, and not only does it look good, but I can generate sparks fairly easily even with a lousy, blunt piece of flint, where as my psook one (the rectangular style with bow drill divot) will barely give a spark.
No problems lighting charcloth now. My next challenge is lighting unprocessed cramp balls and horses hoof trama layer, of which I have plenty scattered about the house.
 

matarius777

Forager
Aug 29, 2019
248
86
58
Lancaster
Resurrecting an old thread of mine... I bought a new steel from ravenforge today, and not only does it look good, but I can generate sparks fairly easily even with a lousy, blunt piece of flint, where as my psook one (the rectangular style with bow drill divot) will barely give a spark.
No problems lighting charcloth now. My next challenge is lighting unprocessed cramp balls and horses hoof trama layer, of which I have plenty scattered about the house.
I got one of their twisted ones, it produces the best sparks out of my steels, I love it, it’s a beautiful object. My only thing is, I wish they made a smaller one as it’s a bit of a dead weight to carry!
 

Suffolkrafter

Settler
Dec 25, 2019
525
464
Suffolk
I'd like to learn more about steel and tempering and so on. It's one of the many things on my to-do list. Perhaps by tempering a poorly functioning steel it is possible to improve its ability to make sparks.
The steel does have some weight to it. I have two separate 'outdoor' kits though. One is lightweight and I take whenever I'm in the country side. It contains cigarette lighter, ferro rod, compas, torch, cordage, vaseline and cotton wool, swiss army knife and a couple of other bits and bobs. My steel lives in another pouch with a char tin, flint, and some horses hoof, mugwort powder and cramp balls. I take this out when I'm more concerned with having fun messing around with fire than whether it is heavy.
 

Wildpiper

Member
Aug 3, 2021
18
7
41
Chattanooga, TN USA
I'm looking for some tips on using flint and steel.
I recently bought a 'pskook' one, one of those rectangular shaped steels with a divot for use as a bow drill bearing block. I decided I needed a break from bow drill and thought this would be worth a try, as I already have amadou and char cloth prepared, as well as an abundance of flint.
Well, I have found it surprisingly difficult to generate decent sparks with it. I find the first few strikes will generate some meagre sparks (steel striking down on the flint), but soon after, the flint edge bluntens and that puts an end to it. I've tried varying the striking angle but without a great deal of success. I've managed to light some charcloth once, but couldn't quite get the Amadou to take the spark.
Any advice will be much appreciated. I had anticipated something of an inferno after a single strike. That's what happens when you watch too much YouTube.
First off try to find a piece of flint with a sharp edge but where the edge is less of an acute angle. Remember stone is brittle so the more meat on the egde the better. Next the best luck Ive had is with home made steel strikers. The best one I have is a rather poorly shaped one I made from a cheap allen wrench. If you dont have a forge you can improvise with a map gas torch some pliers and a bucket of salt water. First shape the allen by heating and bendind to the desired shape while bright orange. Then heat to well above non magnetic orange or yellow glow (insure its not throwing sparks) then quench in salt water.Then grind the black scale off the surface you intend to strike. If all that is too much try charring old denim jeans as it is the best char I have ever used. Try fraying the edge of your cloth a bit before trying to strike sparks to it. Have it as close to the edge without being in danger of hitting your char with the striker and try grinding a fresh surface on your striker with some course sand paper. If all that fails keep practicing and dont get discouraged we have all been there.
 

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