Five pound sharpening kit

[British Red]

Nitram55,

LMAO at that - I have to say this may well be true (as in that they had the idea first). I confess to nickking the idea from Mors Kochanski. Hey, who cares? It works and its cheap! I'm going to go mad with the finer abrasives though - 2,000 grit ? Pah! I've just ordered some 10,000 grit from the link earlier in the thread!

Looking forward to splitting the atom!

Red

 

[British Red]

Great tip on the ceramic fuse! I love this stuff - I suggest a basic idea and you guys build on it an make it far better - thanks!

Red

 

[Andy]

I've matched the test in this thread using the 2micron mesh and the stropping technique this guy uses. I tend to put a slightly less acute bevel on most knives though
http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33387&highlight=burr

 

[British Red]

I've matched the test in this thread using the 2micron mesh and the stropping technique this guy uses. I tend to put a slightly less acute bevel on most knives though
http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33387&highlight=burr

Well, I've ordered some 2 micron Andy - I'll let you know how I get on!

Red

 

[British Red]

Well guys,

This is a sincere thank you. I thought I'd designed something good....you know, cheap effective yada yada yada.

Then along come you lot...(you know who you are...Andy....OldJimbo...etc) and suggest some really good ideas and wipe the smug look right off my face

So, I have to completely re-design the whole kit....I want some of Andys fab specialist papers....I want to use some of OldJimbos buffing compund etc.

Then I start to think, "yeah but them blocks are just too big...if I make loads more I'll need a crate to keep em in". So what to mount all this suff on . I want the boards wider too. I want them lighter and stackable . Hmm plywood? Steel (too heavy), hardboard (doesn't like the wet).

So anyway after much thinking I laid hands on some "sample" A3 sheets of foamex (think 2mm thick stiff plastic). Cut 2 pieces down to 8 A5 sized sheets with a panel saw and sanded the edges smooth.

Then cut out an A5 piece of all the grades of paper and a piece of salvaged soft leather.

Part of a can of spray mount later, we have eight board mounted grades. Then clamped the stack down and drilled two holes along the long edge.

Two screw gate shackles through the holes and...tada

We have a book no thicker than a paperback with 8 A5 sheets (each lablelled on the back). The pages are

240 grit
400 grit
600 grit
1500 grit
2500 grit
8000 grit
10000 grit
Soft leather and green buffing compound.

So, what do you reckon guys? :umbrella:

Seriously - any more suggestions greatly welcomed - mark 2 is an real improvement!

Red

 

[Stew]

So, what do you reckon guys? :umbrella:

Too cool!

That's a surprisingly simple idea that it should have been obvious but it wasn't.

Nice one.

 

[Nemisis]

Brillant Red you going into production?
Dave.

 

[British Red]

Dave,

Its funny you should say that.......no

Seriously though - do try making one yourself, I have just finished working an old Mora up to 2,500 grit and it is terrifyingly, hair splittingly sharp....still three grades to go

The other thing is, this kit is so light (but stiff) I don't have to sit at a table to do it - it works fine watching the box in my lap. I owe Andy a big beer for the abrasives link!

Red

 

[OldJimbo]

Keeping eveything as organized and handy as that has got to be the slickest thing I've seen in a while!

 

[British Red]

Keeping eveything as organized and handy as that has got to be the slickest thing I've seen in a while!

Jimbo - thanks for all the advice - god a bit of fine leather glued down with the buffing compound rubbed in - the blade is like a mirror now

Red

 

[OldJimbo]

If only I was doing as well with my project of re-bevelling razor blades. It isn't as easy as a person might think...
If people are wondering what to do with money now that they know how cheaply they can get away with actual sharpening, then I've always found a decent lens of 16X to be invaluable. Handy out in the bush too.
It's certainly not vital to normal sharpening since slicing paper will show edge defects, but in knowing why certain edges work better or looking at tiny bevels on stuff like razor blades, it certainly is.

 

[-Switch-]

Roughly how long will these home-made boards last?
And will they work just as good with a knife that has a secondary bevel?

 

[Andy]

Roughly how long will these home-made boards last?
And will they work just as good with a knife that has a secondary bevel?

depends
good quality wet&dry will last longer, it also lasts langer if you use WD40 on it but it may be more hassel then it's worth.
I've used the stuff from my link dry and have just tried cleaning part of it with vasaline and tissue paper (mostly to see how the paper works with that on it)
If it's glued to a board it may be possible to clean it in the same way people clean ceramic rods
The paper will get less aggressive as it gets older but with a wide range of grits it's not such a problem

It will work fine on knives with a secondary bevel, it will just take more skill to keep the angle constant

 

[British Red]

Switch,

What Andy said pretty much! If you size the board right, you can get 2 or three sets from a single piece of paper. If you use photomount spray or double sided tape, if a piece wears out or you cut it when sharpening an axe you can just rip it off an replace it. If you don't want to use expensive 10,000 grit papers, as Andy says, keep them older wet and drys as they smooth out..

Although I now use my "book" of papers for knife sharpening, I like the boards for tidying up the bevels on my axes. I use a smilar technique to that show, but on large working axes I move the board, not the axe

Red

 

[Hoodoo]

If you don't glue the paper down, the block can be used over and over again and the paper easily changed.

 

[British Red]

You see? Everyones a critic

Seriously, fantastic tip Hoodoo - that modification will be included in my "Mark III" set I reckon!

I love these threads - take an idea, run with it, improve it etc.

Thanks mate!

 

[-Switch-]

Well I've made mine (240, 400 and 600) and the knife I'm working on at the moment is a Fury DeSota (you've never heard of one right? )
After alot of work I've got the blade to a point where I can shave with it which is a hell of alot sharper than the edge it came with.

Red, you're a good man, what with your axe tutorial and the Banko thread too. A big inspiration :You_Rock_

 

[British Red]

Well I've made mine (240, 400 and 600) and the knife I'm working on at the moment is a Fury DeSota (you've never heard of one right? )
After alot of work I've got the blade to a point where I can shave with it which is a hell of alot sharper than the edge it came with.

Red, you're a good man, what with your axe tutorial and the Banko thread too. A big inspiration :You_Rock_

Switch,



You are very welcome. I think the Banko thread was a real group effort - I didn't start it and I wouldn't have had one if it wasn't for the thead shouting "cheap axe cheap axe" at me

As for this thread, I think the ultimate success of the material is down to people like Andy, Hoodoo and OldJimbo improving a basic idea I nicked out of a book!

That said, thanks for the kind words - I'm learning loads from the guys on here and if I can do the odd "show and tell" with the digicam and it helps someone else absorb the knowledge its good payback

Now as for your "Fury DeSota", two things
1. Follow Andy's link to the abrasives site and get some 2,500 grit wet and dry (79p inc postage) - you'll never go back
2. Pictures man, we need pictures of your knife! Its sharp, its shiny so we wanna see it

Thanks for the compliment!

Red

 

[Hoodoo]

Well, this was Mk I for me a few years ago.

Going to wood was so much easier to do.

Even easier was to use premade sanding blocks.

 

[-Switch-]

I'm afraid I don't have a digital camera so I won't be able to post any pics
It's a shame because I'm quite proud of my knife. And the axe I tidied up with your advice. They're both looking good.