Fitting a Ti-Goat Stove Jack to a Golite SL 5

[Dave]

Im gonna have a go at doing this myself. I've got a sewing machine. Dont know how to use it.

This is how the stove jack arrives. The yellow nylon is a stencil for you to cut that shape out of your tent. Its laying on top of the rubber/fibreglass heat resistant jack which the flue passes out of. It has a flap, presumably to stop rain ingress.

The thin grey silnylon sheet above it, velcro's over the top of the stove jack, when the flue is not in use. Black strip also gets sewn to the tent, [hopefully] and has a velcro strip on the inside.

Also to stop rain/snow ingress i guess.



Its on a large glass bread cutting board.



Bulldog clips.



So this is the exterior of the tent, near the apex of the tipi, with the jack measured, and placed in the position I want it in.



Mixing silnet with white spirits, applying to the underside of the edges of the stove jack. This may or may not work. See tomorrow. Just need it held in place so I can sew it in the machine.



Last step for tonight is putting a box of weights on top of it, allowing it to dry, then tommorow morning, carefully taking off, and letting cure a bit, before attempting to sew it.

Which could quite easily go disastrously wrong. Considering I dont know how to use one of these:



What are all those nobs for? Bah.

Which needle?



any of you fourth dan needleworking ninjas want to chip in feel free.

 

[Dave]

Ok, got the tent back from the local seamstress type place.
They did a brilliant job.
Could not have been more pleased with the quality of the sewing, or the thread they used.

Interior of the tent, showing sewing.



You can see below, I asked them to sew one line on the inside edge of the velcro, and one on the outside edge of the velcro. I drew two parallel lines with a marker pen for them to follow, which you can see if you look closely, but only just as she has followed it perfectly.


Photo below is the exterior of the tent, with a silicone square, which velcro's over the stove jack, when you want it to be waterproof.



Next job is the interior of the tent, drawing a circle, then using a pyrography pen, to cut it out.



Interior and exterior shots, with titanium flue pushed through the jack.



This is the entire stove titanium package, flatpacked, with a snowpeak ti trek 700 mug for scale.



The stove works very well. I've had it going for over an hour, on a bed of coals with two large pieces of pine. I reckon, once I get used to the damper, and the stove, I could have an hour and a half to two hours heat from this thing, unfed.
The titanium does transfer heat better than steel. It also goes colder faster than steel.
I think its a nice size for this tent, and it should keep the tent really warm.
I was dubious about the roll up titanioum flue, but after using it Im a convert.

Tent weighs 900g, stove&flue weighs 875g. So thats very light. 1.75kg for a hot tent. And very packable in a rucksack.

Pole weighs 340g, but if you wanted to go lighter, you could use your walking poles.

Yep, Im very happy with this setup, and will be using it over this winter.

 

[Shewie]

Good luck Dave

Teepee will have some good tips mate, not sure when he's back from Norway though

 

[Dave]

Good luck Dave

Teepee will have some good tips mate, not sure when he's back from Norway though

Thanks Rich. I think I'll need it.

 

[RE8ELD0G]

commenting to follow this thread as i want to learn how to use my machine a bit better too.

Good luck with your project

 

[bilmo-p5]

Mis-post...

 

[Nomad]

Which could quite easily go disastrously wrong. Considering I dont know how to use one of these:

View attachment 24504

What are all those nobs for? Bah.

Big one in the middle is for the different stich types (straight, zig-zag, etc). The other three, from left to right: tension, zig-zag width (or needle centring, or offset, if not doing zig-zag), stitch length. Looking at the hole at the very top right of the photo, it seems that it's missing the little post that the reel of thread sits on. The tension knob adjusts the tension between the upper and lower threads (the idea is to match it to the material you're sewing). You are strongly recommended to search for the user manual. At the very least, you need to know how to get thread onto the bobbin and fit the bobbin into the machine, as well as thread the top thread through the machine to the needle.

Which needle?

Needle depends on fabric and thread. I mostly do heavyish fabrics like cordura or thicker cottons, along with close-woven polyester webbing. For this, I've found 90s to be good when using bonded nylon thread that's not especially thick (same thickness as the Gutermann threads that most sewing places sell).

 

[welchyd1]

Is the jack tapered or square? I thought tipi style tents required a tapered jack or it will ruin the pitch.

Ignore me I can see it's tapered now I've turned my phone sideways. Carry on bud.

 

[Andy BB]

..possibly a bit late for this, but no need to cut out the hole for the pipe. Simply make some cuts radiusing out from the centre of where the pipe will be going - that way the material stays intact, but spreads around the pipe when the pipe is pushed through....

 

[Johnnyboy1971]

It works a treat when done.

 

[Dave]

Thanks for the advice fella's, but after sleeping on it I decided was a bridge too far for me to do, so I took it to a little stitchy buckle type place owned bya lebanese [?] couple this morning who do clothing alterations. They said they had some strong cord, and had even repaired parachutes in the past!
Im picking up next friday.
They cant do a worse job than I would have done..

Silnet does bond it, but only well enough for you to sew it. I probably should have told them to wait for ir to cure before stitching it.

I like your set up JB. Is that a GL SL 5 and a TI Goat?

 

[Johnnyboy1971]

It is indeed Dave. Brill little setup but I have now sold the TiGoat stove. I will be replacing the stove soon though, saying that I have tried a friends modified frontier stove and works a treat.
He has shortened the legs to bring it lower so you are closer to the heat when laid on the floor. Good thing is you don't need extra flue sections as the SL5 is quite low.

 

[Dave]

I dont think I'll bother with a sodskirt either. The Tigoat vertex tents/tipis seem to do ok without them.

 

[Dave]

Bump.

For those interested in my little golite modding project, Ive added part 2. [Scroll up to post number 2]
As its now just about ready. Hope you enjoy it.
I think Im gonna enjoy using it.

 

[welchyd1]

Looks awesome mate good job.

 

[Twodogs]

Good Stuff Dave just in time for winter

Twodogs

 

[Clouston98]

Looking good Dave!

 

[Shewie]

Very tidy Dave, they've done a grand job

Bring on the snow

 

[Dave]

Thanks a lot guys. :You_Rock_

 

[Dave]

Thought I update this thread, as I had a couple of spark holes appear on the tent. Nothing bigger than a matchhead, but still.....I couldnt tell whether they shot out of the front of the stove, or came out of the top of the flue. [Even though you have a spark arrester at the bottom of the flue under the damper.]

So, I spent this evening, modding a sparkproof fluetop, out of an old Panasonic VHS recorder, and a pair of tin snips.
Then used some aluminium modelling mesh, stitched together with the fine copper wire from inside the VHS, and added a bit of mesh behind the door grate.

The modelling mesh forms a tube inside two strips of aluminium, for stability, then another aluminium round top, with a copper rivet. They slip under the titanium clip at the top.

Blowing a gale here, so stood outside with the flue, and it stood up fine.

Hopefully no more sparks on the silnylon...




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