Fallkniven NS5 vs. NS4

[o HeX o]

This my first thread on this forum.

I have been learning basic bushcraft/survival skills as part of my new years resolution as it is something I have always wanted to do but never found the right amount of time and dedication.

I have bought some fairly standard kit (Mora knife, paracord, firestriker etc) whilst I go through my initial learning period and get to grips with the basics.

However like most boys with new tools I seem to find myself looking at top end products and I stumbled across the Fallkniven series. So finally my questions.

1. What is the better bushcraft (most practical and useful) of the Fallkniven knifes NL4 (Frej) and NL5 (Idun), and why?

2. What would you generally use the NL4 and 5 for, any info on comfort, durability, practicality (e.g. being to big).

Thanks for your time.

 

[marcelxl]

No experience of the knives although they look decent enough.

Do not like stacked leather though, not for durability in my experience. I have seen a few knives in a state through getting wet but mostly with the Estwing leather handled hammers, every one of those I have seen that has seen any amount of use is falling in bits.

In my opinion you could get a whole lot more knife for that amount of brass!

 

[Snarf]

First of all, hello and welcome!

TBH I would stick with the Mora, it will never let you down and will do everything you could want it to do and more IMHO, the fallkniven knives are nice but will do the same job as a Mora, id save the pennies and get your self a hammock n tarp or a good quality sleeping bag.

ATB

 

[o HeX o]

Thanks for your feedback.
The Mora is wonderful, I always look after my things so I am trying to keep it in a good state for practical use.

The Fallkniven knifes would be for collection and inheritance (something nice to use on occasion). I have read a couple of reviews about the NS5 but not much on the NS4. I guess I am just wondering what the pro's and con's are in comparrison. If anybody with one of the two would care to share their opinion it would be greatly reviced.

Once again thanks to all those who have already taken the time to read and post.

 

[Snarf]

No problem Hex, i think the mora's are bomb proof, i regualry abuse mine and after a few licks on my DC4 n a strop n its sharp as hell, i look at knives like tools, if it does the job (which it does extremely well) then jobs a goodun.

If your after inhertance and collection get a woodlore lol

or get a Bernie Garland, cracking knife maker and a top bloke all round!

 

[o HeX o]

Thanks Snarf, that is certainly food for thought. Much more genuine, traditional and not to mention 1 off's.

 

[Snarf]

No problem Hex, It's better to go custom than mass produced, even if they limited eds.

Plus Bernie does a crackin woodie clone.

 

[Xunil]

The Fallkniven knives are great workhorses and of the two you mention the NL5 would be my preference - the blade profile is a little easier to use for outdoorsy stuff than the clipped point of the NL4.

I owned an NL5 for almost 2 years and it was a lovely knife to use.

What I would say is that even though the Fallknivens will cope with anything you care to throw at them they open up a whole new world of technicalities for new owners.

For most people the jump from a Scandi (or close to Scandi) grind to a convex is quite a departure. You need a totally different approach to sharpening and I would suggest that an expensive Fallkniven is not the best place to learn...

You should also be aware that Fallkniven convex grinds are quite thick by comparison to a lot of convex ground blades.

That isn’t a problem unless you choose to make it one though. Some people find them less comfortable for carving than Scandi ground knives while others can carve happily with their convex ground Fallkniven.

Basically you have to change your approach to using the knife as well as in how you look after and maintain it.

Most knives made with stacked leather use treated leather these days so that they are less affected by moisture, but they still require a degree of care.

Another factor to keep in mind is the sheath which, on both the NL4 and NL5, is pretty awful.

I am dead against sheaths with retaining straps and pop-stud fasteners – a wet molded and friction-fit sheath is the least I would expect for a knife of this calibre and cost. You may get along with the sheath but the first thing I would do with an NL5 is throw the sheath out a make (or have made) a proper sheath for it.

It’s a great knife with a lot to recommend it but you need to go into this with your eyes wide open. At the very least get yourself to a local stockist or arrange to meet someone who owns one and see it in the flesh (so to speak ) and go from there. It's a lot of money to spend on something that you may find you aren't suited to - the knife can cope with it all, but a lot of users can't cope with the knife...

 

[o HeX o]

Thanks for the detailed response. I appreciate the time you have taken.

This was very helpful.

Best wishes

HeX

 

[Xunil]

I meant to add that the Fallkniven is built in a steel that none of us have available to work with and it is subject the optimal heat treating for that alloy. In all respects the end product is an outstanding example of steel/heat treating done right - this is regardless of whether you like or get on with convex grinds or not.

I should also have added that you could always buy an F1 and see how you get along with it. You will be able to sell it on for close to what you pay for it (assuming you want to ) and it will give you a broad indicator of what a Fallkniven blade is all about without the cost of the NL range knives.

With all due respect to any and all knifemakers (I'm one myself) you cannot easily compare a convex ground laminated stainless blade with well heat treated VG10 core to the common (mostly) single-steel output of the majority of knifemakers.

That's an entirely different kettle of fish though, and perhaps a conversation for another time...

 

[British Red]

That's good advice from Xunil. I hated the Falkniven grind so much that not only could I not stand using the knife, I couldn't even bring myself to accept money for it when I got rid. I really did dislike the knife that much (I still do detest them). I would advise you to try them first - their "survival" heritage shows to me - big, tough and clumsy.

Red

 

[Xunil]

I've been thinking about this a bit more and it's worth pointing out that I always regrind the few Fallkniven knives I keep to be slimmer than standard - many moons ago I posted pictures of an F1 on here that I had reground and, although it was still convex, it was a LOT slimmer than a standard F1 which, to me, allows it to work the way I like a knife to work. I'll have a rummage and see if I can find the pictures or I guess I could take some more of that particular knife when I am next at the cottage, but that will be three or four weeks away. Regrinding is a chunk of work most folks (quite rightly) wouldn’t be interested in doing.

That said, a mate of mine uses a bog standard F1 and he can rattle out spoon after spoon and do triggers for traps and all kinds of other stuff with it, so I still think this is down to the user to adapt to the knife, up to a point (no pun intended).

What I would say is that I usually have an F1 or two lying around and I think I have one in the shed at the moment. If it’s the one I am thinking of a friend of mine gave me the blade a year or two ago after his abortive attempt to put a handle on it and told me to do what I liked with it. I put carbon fibre scales on it and haven’t touched it since - it has a few witness marks from his clumsy filing but is otherwise a bog standard F1.

If you are seriously considering Fallkniven then I’d be happy to send you that one to play with, on the understanding that I get it back at some stage, preferably on one piece...



You would be able to make a more informed decision once you have faffed around with one for a while, and the F1 is a very broadly similar overall in size and shape to the NL5.

If convex is your thing (it’s my favourite by a country mile) then may I respectfully suggest that you look at the excellent Bark River Knife & Tool knives ?

They are a much slimmer convex than Fallkniven grinds and most of the Bark River designs are great workers, particularly their professional series.

I sold a Highland Special a while ago http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64540 and it, for the sake of an example, is a great working knife. It makes the Fallkniven F1 look like a box of crayons by comparison (just my opinion of course) and they do a range of handle options to choose from. The Bark River Knife & Tool Fox River is, I think, one of the single best production outdoors knives there is bar none and, again, it has a wide range of handle options.

Convex grinds don't honk everyone's hooter but if that's your thing then Bark River could well be a (far less expensive) way forward and their grinds, being slimmer than the Fallkniven, are more useful in general outdoors environments to most folks.

That's probably only muddied the waters instead of clearing them, but there we have it

 

[Everything Mac]

For an investment or inheritance knife you would be better ordering a custom made knife from one of the many many makers listed both on here and over on out sister forum - www.britishblades.com

The knives you mentioned are very nice to look at though and I certainly wouldn't mind owning one but as pointed out that is a LOT of cash for a factory made knife. - not matter how good it is.

Xunil is right about the steel though - (I don't know it personally) various companies make some sh** hot blades.


I'd invest in a custom. - though if it is just a high end user you are after, consider the Enzo blades, the Fallkniven F1 or many many more.
Check out Busse

Yoy could always get me to make you one

All the best mate
Andy

 

[WeThePeoplexfbm]

i had a really old mora knife about 10 year old it had a saw back but i think i sold it -_-

 

[Xunil]

The question of an investment knife raises some additional issues and the assumption that a custom knife is a better option is far from true.

There are comparatively few makers who produce work that appreciates significantly in value - at best most makers produce knives that (mostly) hold their original purchase value, or pretty close to it, and that particular market is generally quite saturated where folks typically expect to pay under £300 (or around half that, more often than not) and make back what they spend if they decide to re-sell the knife.

There are some obvious exceptions that we all know about but by and large it is fair to say that investment knives (where you would expect to make a worthwhile return) are a whole different kettle of fish.

If that side of the equation is important then I suggest you reconsider your requirements and take another look at this - it is possible to combine a nominal investment opportunity with a working knife, but this may not involve the type of knife you might be interested in actually using.



I'll get my coat...