Environmentally and ethically made?

[TomBartlett]

This article (http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/2010/jun/15/outdoor-gear-toxic-chemicals) got me thinking. Basically the article is a response to the results of the Ethical Consumer magazine's latest buyers guide that rates the manufacturers of outdoor gear very poorly with regards to their environmental policies. It's ironic that companies who rely on the state of environment have so few safeguards in place to protect this.
With oil and petroleum based products pretty central to the public's eye these days are/will you do anything to change your buying habits in regards to bushcraft?
For example, will you choose natural fiber ventile material over gore-tex which is manufactured with environmentally damaging chemicals?
Looking forward to hearing your views.

 

[robin wood]

Natural fibre is not necessarily more environmentally friendly, we need to look at the whole supply chain of how the product is made as some companies do. See this note from howies http://brainfood.howies.co.uk/footprints/tell-the-truth-even-if-it-hurts-your-business/
And also bare in mind that production, transport and purchase of the product are only the tiny start of the environmental impact. Again good info from howies. http://brainfood.howies.co.uk/footprints/know-thy-enemy/

"Making our products uses this much energy:
8%

Bringing our products to you from our factories around the world consumes this much energy:
3%

Washing and ironing our products uses this much energy:
80%

As a company that wants to find the lowest impact way to make its quality clothing, that long red line needs all our energy.

We have to start designing products that need to be washed less.

It might take us some time. But at least we know who the enemy is."

 

[Wayland]

I don't need much prompting to go for natural materials but the story is not always that simple as Robin says.

One thing I always try to do is go for longer term solutions where I can. Disposability is a curse that mankind is soon going to have to address in my opinion.

 

[Ogri the trog]

I've been trying my best to use natural materials for quite a few years now. I certainly find that they do not require to be washed as frequently.
Couple this with making my own and doing my own modifications and the results are clothes that I prefer to wear, last a lot longer than synthetic versions and to my mind - represent much more Eco-friendly products.

ATB

Ogri the trog

 

[TomBartlett]

Thanks for pointing that out Robin, you're right, it's a very complicated issue. I'm a big fan of your blog and the way you talk about traditional crafts. Being so far removed from the production of the things we buy and use means that it's difficult to know what when into them (materials, production, transport). I'm part wondering part hoping to raise awareness about how the things we use to enjoy the environment might be having a negative impact on it. This article was a surprise for me, in that it was outdoor equipment companies that were overlooking environmental issues. I'm a long way from making everything I need for myself so I'm wondering what lengths people here go to ensure that what they use is ecologically sound, because, if anyone on here is like me, a pristine natural environment is something they spend a lot of their time daydreaming about when they're not heading out into one.

 

[apj1974]

Biggest problem I see is cost. I dont think it is really a question of ventile instead of goretex, but of ventile verses regatta. Would love good quality pure wool, but probably have to settle for what I can pick up in tesco. I guess that is why army surplus is so popular, because it tends to be better equipment at a cheaper price. Its a vicious circle really, the more natural material wont become cheaper until more want it and vice versa. Now if someone started a fair trade movement in British Wool that might help.

 

[Wayland]

I tend to think about cost in the long term. If it's half the price but only lasts a quarter of the time, it's not a bargain is it?

I have bought some expensive kit over the years and I still have most of it now. To me that is sustainable and offers good value too.

 

[Aussiepom]

What Wayland said x 2.

However, looking at the bigger picture, I think that trying to carefully choose which products we buy is merely scratching the surface in terms of trying to find a solution to the problem.

As a race we humans tend to wreck almost everything we touch, (speaking generally, not about individuals). Hence I truly believe that for the sake of the planet we would need to halve or even quarter the human population. That's a bit of a wild statement, and not based on any particular statistics, just the result of my own ponderings. Of course there are many shortcomings with even with such a hypothetical solution:
How would we implement it
The population would simply grow again over time
etc, etc

Even if we could implement it, the hypocritical side of me would also be thinking 'Great solution, as long as it doesn't affect me or my friends/family.'

All said and done though I really do think that, with human nature as it is, the planet would be better off with far far fewer of us around.

 

[Ogri the trog]

The financial cost of a garment is a huge consideration for me and the prime reason I started this journey.
Theres no way I can/could justify the cost of a ventile coat from a major retailer, hence buying the seconds material and making my own - still a considerable outlay for me - but I get a comparable garment and the experience of having created it myself. I used to do the Tesco/Asda/high street thing but there was always a compromise in quality/performance/fit/longevity etc.

Ogri the trog

 

[apj1974]

Actually I think the biggest thing is patience. I cant afford or justify that ventile jacket now, even if it will last for a very long time, but eventually I will find one somewhere in a sale or second hand or something. Wherever I go I'm always on the look out for something suitable or adaptable and over time have collected some very good kit, some of which has lasted years and will continue too. I must admit I don't feel too bad about my Peter Storm fleece that I have had for over twelve years and is still going strong - all things balanced that's not too unsustainable I guess. The irony I think for modern consumers is that the environmental argument turns the anti fur argument of the 80's upside down!

 

[Limaed]

As a family we buy a great deal second hand whether from car boot sales, charity shops, recycling centres or of the net. By doing this we save money, donate to good causes, produce less rubbish (from packaging) and minimise our demand as consumers. Probably about 60% of my bushy gear is in some way secondhand and I think (if you wern't to fussy) with a bit of dedication it would be possible to buy about 90% of your standard gear.
Its not the complete answer as you cant influence what the manufacturers are producing or how its produced but its a step in the right direction.

 

[Tengu]

I do that too, I simply cant afford new most of the time

 

[Paul_B]

Can I just point out that cotton is one of the most polluting and energy / chemical intensive natural fibres around? IIRC ventile is made of cotton therefore ventile is not environmenatally sound choice. I think you can be too simplistic talking about natural good synthetic bad. Robin said you have to look at the whole chain or red line. The life of a garment doesn't stop when you get handed your receipt. Also things aren't as cut and dried as you think. Does anyone know if x brand ventile is better than y brand? The distinction can be that close. Take the company golite from america. It uses 100% green energy during its manufacture of its product (a lot of synthetics such as sleeping bags in pertex and down infill). Anyway they make a big deal about recycling synthetics. Recycling synthetics such as bottles to make fleece is energy intensive therefore bad for environment but if your power is from sustainable sources who's to say that recycling is now good for the environment.

Sorry for the ramblings above but I find simplistic views on things need pointing out such as cotton being a bad choice of fabric to choose as being environmental and the like. Wool is good though. I mean it grows naturally without the methane release thaat cows have and it just keeps growing so is reliable. It also needs less processing with chemicals and lower energy costs to produce.

Then IIRC ventile is egyptian cotton (higher thread count I believe) in two layers this cotton expands to prevent water ingress but allows sweat and water vapour to escape. Anyhow the cotton probably has a lot of miles to reach you. It will last a long time but so will synthetics if youu look after them. I have paramo that is almost 19 years and still as good as new. I also have event waterproof that is probably 6 years or more old. It shows no sign of needing to be replaced. I reckon it will last at least twice that. I have never thrown away any fleece or synthetic base layer. That started with my first synthetic base layer a helly hansen lifa top. Bought for kayaking and also used for walking. It still fits me after 20 or 21 years. I am only 37 so it has been used for well over half my life. I am sure over the same length of time I would have gone through a few merino wool tops. I have a wool and synnthetic top from helly hansen. It has wool on the outsiide and polypro on the inside to wick sweat away from the skin to be absorbed byt the merino. Anyway it has started to wear away down from the outer merino wool (natural fibres) down to the synthetic polypro layer which is still intack. Anyway for every finest merino wool top from NZ sheep that is made and shipped to the UK to be replaced after a few years with another one after wear has made it obsolete the miles to get the goods to you increases however the environmental credentials will be slipping down.

The heirarchy is reduce, re-use then recycle. I have found that my synthetic base layer has meant that I have reduced the number of tops I have had to buy on account of it being pretty much indestructable and lasting for many years saving the cost to manufacture a new item.

 

[TomBartlett]

Thanks for pointing that out Paul. At the moment I do have a fairly simplistic view of this kind of thing (natural fibre = good, synthetic = bad). I'm definitely not a big clothes shopper. At 23 most of my wardrobe is about 3-4 years old, most of it has little sign of wearing out so I think I'm doing okay on the reduce side of things. Where I'm living at the moment, buying second-hand is extremely difficult so what I have bought I've tried on ensure that it'll last me as long as possible.