elbow adzes

forginhill

Settler
Dec 3, 2006
678
74
52
The Desert
Made my first couple of elbow adzes. After working with this tool, my hatchet is going to be having some down time. There's a reason adzes are prolific in "primitive" cultures around the world.

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Robson Valley

On a new journey
Nov 24, 2014
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McBride, BC
Very well done. That's an adze style that I have never used, itching to try that.
I like the idea of anchoring the blade with a couple of screws.

Q1: All up, is the weight about 16oz or a little less?
Q2: What is the function of the leather? Neither my elbow adze nor my D-adze (Kestrel Tool blades) have that.
Q3: I see there's no blade notch and seat. No need for it?
 

forginhill

Settler
Dec 3, 2006
678
74
52
The Desert
Thanks for the feedback. I'm still at the beginning of this project, so I have lots to learn....

Q1: All up, is the weight about 16oz or a little less?
Q2: What is the function of the leather? Neither my elbow adze nor my D-adze (Kestrel Tool blades) have that.
Q3: I see there's no blade notch and seat. No need for it?

Haven't weighed anything yet, but I can.

Leather was just to provide a "buffer" between steel and wood. Not sure if it's necessary at all.

I started out with a blade notch, but would have had to cut off some of the steel. I wanted to keep it all for the weight so I got rid of the notch. I didn't think it would have provided significant support anyway. Again, I could be wrong. I'm learning. So far everything is going well. Handles are totally green, so I don't know what will happen as they dry out. I just wanted the tool and made one the quickest way possible. I'll keep you posted....
 

Dave Budd

Gold Trader
Staff member
Jan 8, 2006
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www.davebudd.com
the only problem I can see with your lovely adze, is that there is no ledge/stop behind the blade. So all of the striking force is taken by the screws holding it onto the handle. I can't seen them staying put for long I'm afraid ;)
 

Robson Valley

On a new journey
Nov 24, 2014
9,959
2,668
McBride, BC
OK on the weight. I'm happy with 12-16oz.

OK on the leather. Not a known requirement in the various adzes of the Pacific Northwest.
Not new ones, not any of the museum pieces that I have studied.

Screws in green wood = those puppies are going to rust before anything happens. Then you have to get that stuff
out of the wood. Consider stainless steel countersink bolts very soon.

OK on the lack of a blade notch. You'll be thankful for the extra weight when you get into big bowls.

I predict that you are in for a great ride of exploration with that adze. Grease up your hatchet and put it away.
Write note to self, a reminder of where you have stored it.

Making my own birch handles, both my adzes are built like the finished ones that you can see in the Kestrel Tool catalog.
Blade notches and dry-whipped with #18 tarred nylon seine cord. They don't wiggle.
 

forginhill

Settler
Dec 3, 2006
678
74
52
The Desert
the only problem I can see with your lovely adze, is that there is no ledge/stop behind the blade. So all of the striking force is taken by the screws holding it onto the handle. I can't seen them staying put for long I'm afraid ;)

You're probably right. I'll use them until that happens. Meanwhile, I'll be on the lookout for replacement handles.

OK on the leather. Not a known requirement in the various adzes of the Pacific Northwest.
Not new ones, not any of the museum pieces that I have studied.

Screws in green wood = those puppies are going to rust before anything happens. Then you have to get that stuff
out of the wood. Consider stainless steel countersink bolts very soon.

OK on the lack of a blade notch. You'll be thankful for the extra weight when you get into big bowls.

I predict that you are in for a great ride of exploration with that adze. Grease up your hatchet and put it away.
Write note to self, a reminder of where you have stored it.

Making my own birch handles, both my adzes are built like the finished ones that you can see in the Kestrel Tool catalog.
Blade notches and dry-whipped with #18 tarred nylon seine cord. They don't wiggle.

Great to hear the experience. The screws seem coated with something, so hopefully that will slow down the rust. I would like to try the dry-whipping. That appeals to me. I was just going for something I could use quickly.
 

Robson Valley

On a new journey
Nov 24, 2014
9,959
2,668
McBride, BC
I am slowly getting photos into Photobucket. Step 2 will be to get comfortable with the process to post here.
I will put up threads for both an elbow adze build and a D-adze build, Pacific Northwest style design.

In the meantime, do you realize that a big bowl, by weight, will be about 10% of the wood block?
You need to cut 85% with the adze and finish 5% with a crooked knife. Takes some endurance.
Listen to your heart rate, strike no faster than that. Seems foolishly slow but you can strike all day.
Hack like a maniac and most people don't last 20 minutes.
 

forginhill

Settler
Dec 3, 2006
678
74
52
The Desert
Sounds like more good advice. I look forward to the threads on the adze build.

I grew up (first 18 years of my life) down in the rainforest. I watched (though never actually built one myself) plenty of dugout canoe work by the natives. They could work all day with a large two handed adze. Quite amazing.
 

VaughnT

Forager
Oct 23, 2013
185
61
Lost in South Carolina
Beautiful work, hoss. I keep saying I'm going to forge an adze like that, but I just never get around to it. Your photos have given me a much needed boost, though, and I've asked my father to keep a look out for suitable handles on his land. He's always cutting trees for this or that.

As for the stop shelf behind the blade, I've heard a lot of people talk about these. I've never used an adze, so I don't know thing one about them.

Looking at your design, though, it would be very easy to add a stop to them. I'd take a small piece of metal plate and drill/countersink for two screws. Fasten the plate to the rear of the handle so that it just peeks up over the wood to act like a little finger for the blade to butt up against.

You get all the benefits of a ledge to take the strain off the two main screws, and you don't have to do much more work. Maybe wait until the handles are thoroughly dried so you can repair the existing screw holes and use some epoxy to bed the stop plate.

That's my thinking.... and probably what I'm going to do once I find a suitable handle.
 

forginhill

Settler
Dec 3, 2006
678
74
52
The Desert
Worked out a little spoon blank last night with the second, flat bladed adze. It's going to take some getting used to. These tools are so sharp and thin (compared to a regular hatchet). They are very precise and can take off the thinnest shavings. I was able to go further with it than I could with the hatchet. I also like how your work is facing you, making it easier to see what you're doing. I felt like this adze was a little heavy for the work I was doing. I think it will feel better as the handle dries out and as I work it down thinner, which I plan to do. Overall, I am completely sold on adzes.

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VaughnT, I like your ideas....
 

Robson Valley

On a new journey
Nov 24, 2014
9,959
2,668
McBride, BC
VaughnT's ideas are good. I don't know how the very small amount added weight would change the strike
but it could be just something else to get used to.

forginhill: the observations you make in post #16 are what I believe, as well.
I like the gentle sweep of your straight blade.
I've tried to use one adze or another at every possible opportunity in carving.
Not a real body of experience yet but they are much more versatile than I imagined.
The D-adze is a "shaver" on straight or convex surfaces.
 

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