DIY greenland style wax for waterproofing stuff

  • Hey Guest, We're having our annual Winter Moot and we'd love you to come. PLEASE LOOK HERE to secure your place and get more information.
    For forum threads CLICK HERE
I've only just twigged that you are talking about tropical regions.

Just say no. the cotton fabric will rot out very quickly and I think your coconut leaf thatching would last as long.

Look at what the locals use. I suspect if I were you I'd check that the plastic tarp was waterproof then cover it with coconut or palm thatching, partly to make it look nicer, but also to protect the plastic from UV.
 
Sorry I didn't mean to come across as an expert on this :)

It's just in my experience UV will destroy just about anything that you don't want it to. In the UK sun a cheap motorcycle cover will last 2 years and an expensive one about 5 or 6. I can't imagine wax and bedsheets would be impervious.

I've worked on roofs in Australia about the same distance from the Equator as Kerala and the temperatures were blistering. I just can't see wax staying put, especially on the surface of the fabric.
Trying to apply melted wax to a roof I can picture a big blob of set wax the size of a football on the end of your stick and none on the roof itself.

In Indonesia some people had wooden shingles on their more substantial beech huts but they had 'proper' bamboo battening on decent timbers to take them. Others that were less substantial went with the coconut thatching.
I imagine putting chicken wire over the coconut thatch as they do with thatched roofs in the UK would help it's longevity and is probably the path I would explore.

As I said I'm not an expert, just trying to think of the practicalities.
 
Thanks, yeah, the wooden branch roof frame on the roof isn't very substantial.

I may have to put the effort in and add more framing and level it out a little, it's like the little crooked house that Jack built at the moment, and then put some wooden shingles on.

I though a canvas/cotton tarp on top of the plastic tarp would be a quick fix but with the energy it would take to reframe it I may as well add real shingles instead.

Good to hear about the wax proofing recipe, I forgot about it, I saw a good video with a crazy Russian hacker guy do his cotton shoes with a candle.

It sparked up an idea in my head.

Cheers all.

Alex.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
So holy thread resurrection.
15 years later and I just used up the last of my Greenland wax I made at the beginning of this thread. I made 800g worth and have waxed dozens and dozens of things.

I actually downloaded all my photos from photo bucket so I will see if I can restore the original images sometime.

Need to make some more now!
 
This is great.
I presume that it produces a block that I rub over the fabric. I wonder if I added some liquid paraffin I could make a paste like the little can that I got for £9.

After you’ve rubbed it with the wax block, do you iron it?
 
This is great.
I presume that it produces a block that I rub over the fabric. I wonder if I added some liquid paraffin I could make a paste like the little can that I got for £9.

After you’ve rubbed it with the wax block, do you iron it?
Yes it forms a block shaped in whatever you mould it in (a flora pot in this case) it’s not a rock hard wax, and rubs on surprisingly easily. I then melt it into the fabric with a hairdryer. I do this 3-5 times depending on weight of material and then I pop whatever I have waxed in an old pillow case and tumble dry it hot for about 10mins - this evens out the coating.

When I first did it I applied heavy coats until it wouldn’t really ‘melt in’ anymore - that is waaayyyy to much wax and it all melts out in the summer or goes white and stiff in the cold. I now aim for the material to just feel a bit stiff but not shiny.

Interesting about paraffin liquid suggestion, yes I wonder, might not need much either tbh I would probably start at like 2% as an experiment.
If you keep your hard paraffin and beeswax ratio the same you can just melt it back down again and add another 2% liquid or whatever until it’s the consistency you want?
 
Last edited:
Interesting about paraffin liquid suggestion, yes I wonder, might not need much either tbh I would probably start at like 2% as an experiment.
If you keep your hard paraffin and beeswax ratio the same you can just melt it back down again and add another 2% liquid or whatever until it’s the consistency you want?
I use some oil in mine when I want a softer consistency. 10% still sets as a hard block


 
  • Like
Reactions: Pattree
I use some oil in mine when I want a softer consistency. 10% still sets as a hard block


Great video.
I waxed a smock ages ago, it worked very well. I am tempted to wax the shoulders of my cotton/wool jacket as well tbh.

What do you think ratio wise? Maybe 25% oil then?

Just thinking geeenland wax block for clothes and materials and Greenland wax paste for boots and other items?
 
  • Like
Reactions: British Red
Great video.
I waxed a smock ages ago, it worked very well. I am tempted to wax the shoulders of my cotton/wool jacket as well tbh.

What do you think ratio wise? Maybe 25% oil then?

Just thinking geeenland wax block for clothes and materials and Greenland wax paste for boots and other items?
These days I add 20% Johnson's Baby oil which makes for a softer block. For a true paste I suspect 40%+ oil
 
  • Like
Reactions: MrEd and Pattree
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: MrEd
I just use a food-safe mineral oil; it's half the price of JBO with no additives. I mix it with bees wax and/or paraffin wax depending on use and the thickness required. It gets used on wood, leather and waxed cotton.

Edit: I use leather dyes if I want my wax to have colour

JBO is £7 a litre in Boots. Is the stuff you use really £3.50 a litre? If so, can I have a link please?

 
JBO is £7 a litre in Boots. Is the stuff you use really £3.50 a litre? If so, can I have a link please?


Wow, no, I haven't found JBO that cheap for years :)

The main reason I switched was because for a while I could only get the scented versions of JBO. I wanted to know exactly what was in it.

The food safe mineral oil I use is about £17/L from Amazon but then, JBO is £23/L :)
 
Last edited:
Wow, no, I haven't found JBO that cheap for years :)

The main reason I switched was because for a while I could only get the scented versions of JBO. I wanted to know exactly what was in it.

The food safe mineral oil I use is about £17/L from Amazon but then, JBO is £23/L :)
Yeah Amazon is expensive for heavy stuff in the shops. I must pick up a couple of bottles next time I'm in town
 

BCUK Shop

We have a a number of knives, T-Shirts and other items for sale.

SHOP HERE