Chainsaw instruction book

[Abbe Osram]

Hi guys,
soon I will be on the go using a chain saw. Has anyone of you a pdf of chainsaw safty instructions or a good book tip. How to use a chainsaw in a proper way?!

thanks
Abbe

 

[george]

Try this Abbe; www.stihl.co.uk/pdf/chainsaw.pdf

Lots of links here: http://www.baesg.org/chainsaw.htm

Better still - go on a basic operators course and ask lots of questions. It's easy to make a pretty drastic mistake with a chainsaw that you won't walk away from.

George

 

[redflex]

Go to http://international.husqvarna.com/,

click on manuals, at the bottom there is a list of quick links which give info on using chainsaws, safety, maintance etc.

If you know what model you can down load full manual.

hope this helps

 

[Abbe Osram]

Thanks a lot guys!!!
cheers
Abbe

 

[baggins]

A word of warning Abbe,
seeing as you're not used to using chain saws, i'd really recomend that you get yourself a pair of safety trousers (specifically for chainsaws). That way you do minimise the risk of hopping around like long John Silver for the rest of your days. Accidents happen all too easily with chainsaws, even to the more experienced of us. Most chainsaw retailers will be able to point you in the direction of what would be best suited for your needs.
Leo

 

[Abbe Osram]

Thanks for all the pointers guys.
I have one question, when I buy the chain saw do they have a low kickback chain automatically installed or is that a thing to ask for?

sorry if I pop stupid questions, I did some chain sawing before but today when I read the safty manuals I got goosebumps and thank God that I didnt suffer a kickback.

thanks
Abbe

 

[bambodoggy]

Abbe, most domestic (both electric and petrol) chainsaws like you buy in garden centres and DIY places come with chains that lower the risk of kick back due to their style and profile and are now starting to have anti kick back guards on them and I strongly agree with this for home users.

Pretty much all commercial saws have neither and as a regular user I prefer this as it make the saw more aggressive and faster to work with as well as being more versitile.

The best way to avoid kick back imo when not using one with a guard(although the same advice applies) is to use it properly i.e. stance and position (never were the saw could hit you if it does kick etc - similar to basic knife safety when carving) and to avoid touching anything within the kickback zone of the bar as much as you can.

Hope that helps,

Bam.

 

[wingstoo]

Abbe, most domestic (both electric and petrol) chainsaws like you buy in garden centres and DIY places come with chains that lower the risk of kick back due to their style and profile and are now starting to have anti kick back guards on them and I strongly agree with this for home users.

Pretty much all commercial saws have neither and as a regular user I prefer this as it make the saw more aggressive and faster to work with as well as being more versitile.

The best way to avoid kick back imo when not using one with a guard(although the same advice applies) is to use it properly i.e. stance and position (never were the saw could hit you if it does kick etc - similar to basic knife safety when carving) and to avoid touching anything within the kickback zone of the bar as much as you can.

Hope that helps,

Bam.

Good stuff Bam, I bought a small saw from INDEX, and although it comes with instructions it also came with the auto brake when the kickback guard is pushed forward...Just ordered myself a pair of Stihl salopettes from Hire Center, a sub of Pipeline and Plumbcenter, got them for a good price as I nudged the guy to give me a good discount...

LS

 

[bambodoggy]

Good stuff Bam, I bought a small saw from INDEX, and although it comes with instructions it also came with the auto brake when the kickback guard is pushed forward...Just ordered myself a pair of Stihl salopettes from Hire Center, a sub of Pipeline and Plumbcenter, got them for a good price as I nudged the guy to give me a good discount...

LS

Good to hear you're getting yourself some protective trousers, it actually makes me feel queezy watching unskilled people (and skilled for that matter) using saws without chainsaw gear on!!!!

Also, sorry....I should have been more clear about what I was talking about in my other post: By kickback guard I was referring to an end cap that is bolted on the end of the chainbar covering the last few cm of the bar and about half way down the front tip of the bar i.e. the "kickback zone", that's the place where touching anything is most likely to cause a sudden violet kickback.
What you're talking about I call the "chain break" as it controls the clutch break and stops the chain moving.... ALL saws should have one of these on or I wouldn't touch it. They are used by the opperator to make the saw more safe between actual cuts while the engine is still running. They do certainly also have the purpose of helping to reduce the risk of kickback by engaging from the force of the saw flying up in kickback and therefore (hopefully) stopping the chain moving before it potencially hits anyone....for this reason they are also refered to as "inertia breaks".

Please excuse my very bad spelling

Hope that's a bit clearer matey Have fun with your saw!!!! lol

Cheers,

Bam.

 

[wingstoo]

Bam,


So where would I get one of the kickback guards for a 16" saw?

LS

 

[bambodoggy]

Sorry Mate, I have no idea as I don't use domestic saws

What make is it? I don't believe they do retro fit guards as I've not noticed them when I've been at the local B&Q but the manufacturer might do one.....sorry, not much help realy am I ? ? ? lol

 

[wingstoo]

No Worries,


Guess that a retro fit could be more of a problem than a factory fit anyway after thinking about it, especially if it wasn't fitted properly by an amatuer; could just see it flying off at the wrong moment...

Any chance of a piccy sometime so that we can alll see what it looks like.

Mine is a JCB saw, propably a name under a different guise, they do it a lot with tools...

Have a photo somewhere but can't find it.....

LS

 

[underground]

This www.osh.dol.govt.nz/order/catalogue/pdf/treefell.pdf and this www.osh.govt.nz/order/catalogue/pdf/chainsaw2.pdf


are both very good reads (I can't currently connect but nopt sure if that's me or the links so give them a go) - intended to help safety wise by the NZ government as there are large numbers of agricultural and home users who just aren't going to attend an NPTC or equivalent course, probably just like many agricultural and garden users in the UK and no doubt Sweden too.

A few things to bear in mind - chainsaw safety is one thing, such as a proper awareness of maintenance and actually doing it. Wear protective clothing, helmet and visor etc. Knowing the safe ways to start the saw, and stances, and how to move with the saw are all crucial, no matter what you intend doing with it. Learn well, and follow the correct procedures every time, make it a real habit and don't rush, get lazy or work in poor light or cramped surroundings.

All this is fine if all you're doing is basic crosscutting of straight timber - I have done this regularly after basic learning, albeit with a very experienced arboriculturalist, but I am not 'trained and qualified'. This is not to say that I don't advocate proper training, just an acknowledgement of the fact that not everyone will take it on.

The thing that may be a worry Abbe, is that you may want to use a chainsaw to fell trees in the forest, or to dismantle fallen trees. Both operations carry inherent dangers that you don't need to get wrong to learn the mistakes from, as they may be your last mistake.

Felling standing trees in dense forest can lead to 'hung' trees, unsupported at the base and unstable in the canopy.

Likewise fallen trees are supported by branches, and potentially cutting only one branch can end with the entire stem lashing out, twisting and falling in just the wrong direction.

I think that if you can get the certificates, and can afford the time and money, get them (why not), and even then it's worth practising with an experienced forester / user until you know what you're doing. Otherwise I wouldn't rule out just learning with the experienced guy if you can, as it will work out (and that's once how everyone did it after all) Even better is to never use a chainsaw alone, especially not in the deep woods. It wouldn't do to have contact between chain and leg, and no-one to help.

Hope that helps...

 

[bambodoggy]

Any chance of a piccy sometime so that we can alll see what it looks like.

As it happens I can do you a picture! lol This is basically what I'm talking about as a "kickback guard":

Agree 100% with everything Underground has just said too

 

[wingstoo]

Too right, some very useful info being posted...


The guard looks a good feature.

The other thing that I always have close to hand, apart from the wearable safety gear, when the chainsaw, saw, axe or knives are out is a darn good first aid kit, just in case, with a torniquet, big field dressings, and the latest addition is a pack of quick-clot, stop bleed or what ever it is called, very expensive but cheap when compared to bleeding out...

LS

 

[Abbe Osram]

Hi guys,
thanks for taking part here in the Thread with such great info. Bam, the picture was very helpfull. And everyone here pressing the point of cloth for protection, I am going to buy some. I was cheap and thought a helmet, earpluggs and eyeprotection should do. But I am considering buying more stuff.

Bam, do you have to share some knowleadge on the protective cloth and what to watch out for. Dont want to buy expensive crapp which in the end doesnt help when it matters.

Underground; thanks for the thinking of my safty. Before I start to fell bigger trees which could kill me I am taking my neighbour or some other more experienced guy with me. I have the knowleadge in theory, what to watch out for but still I am nervous to make a mistake, as you said it could be my first and last.

Hey, by the way my english friends, I loved our football game. Cool game!

cheers
Abbe

 

[bambodoggy]

If you stick to Husky, Stihl or SIP clothing then you can't go too far wrong mate.

I use the new Stihl hi-flex climbing pants and a pair of Aqua-fell boots with resin toe cap, saw protection and sympertex lining.

The kit I use isn't cheap but I find I use the boots for bushcrafting in the winter anyway as they are so warm and comfy and on odd occations I've worn the trousers out too as they are also warm and comfy and very versitile unlike more traditional chainsaw clothing. They have all round protection and so the only place that gets chilly is your bum lol

So, good boots and trousers are a must imo...and I'd strongly advice a pair of gloves too....partly as the padded left hand makes the chainbreak more comfy to use, partly for the protection they over (which is a little limited) and mainly to help reduce vibration and therefore the dreaded "white knuckle".

Here's a sight showing the "hi-flex" trousers I wear...4th item down:
http://www.abbeygardensales.co.uk/subprod/stihl-chainsaw-protection-clothing-0000490.aspx
And here's the boots, second item down:
http://www.abbeygardensales.co.uk/subprod/protective-boots-and-brushcutter-shin-guards-0000547.aspx

As I say this isn't the cheapest kit but it will last a lot longer and can be worn day in day out even when not actually using saws so saves you carrying two lots of kit into the forest.

Dave, it's an HSE requirement to carry an HSE approved foresty personal FAK on your person at all times if using a saw commercially so it's a very good idea to follow suit as a domestic user.

Hope that helps,

Bam.

 

[Abbe Osram]

Thanks a lot, it helped me a great deal!
cheers
Abbe