Thanks SOAR, it helps to have info on makes for the safety gear aswell as the saw and the necessary safety classifications.
chainsaw advice
- Thread starter heath
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Thanks SOAR, it helps to have info on makes for the safety gear aswell as the saw and the necessary safety classifications.
A lot of the above mention advice has good merit .
I've slimmed down my chainsaw collection down to 10 that I use (from 33cc to 95cc) and have put a fair amount of petrol through them .I use Stihl , Husky , Johnsered and one Echo but I would also look at or not count out Dolmar/Makita Redmax,and Shindiawa.
If you're not familiar with power saws , go to any of the manufacturer's web site and download a few different owners manuals and read them (plenty of good info) .
The better saw manufacturers make some good homeowner saws , a file and patience will overcome a dull chain and a new chain for a mid size saw is about the price of a dozen beer .
If there is a training course available it should be considered .
I've slimmed down my chainsaw collection down to 10 that I use (from 33cc to 95cc) and have put a fair amount of petrol through them .I use Stihl , Husky , Johnsered and one Echo but I would also look at or not count out Dolmar/Makita Redmax,and Shindiawa.
If you're not familiar with power saws , go to any of the manufacturer's web site and download a few different owners manuals and read them (plenty of good info) .
The better saw manufacturers make some good homeowner saws , a file and patience will overcome a dull chain and a new chain for a mid size saw is about the price of a dozen beer .
If there is a training course available it should be considered .
EdS
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Spot on! I'd have the above before even thinking about gloves tbh - scary things chainsaws when things go wrong
Mind you...
[video=youtube;kHUtp5w3kis]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHUtp5w3kis&feature=related[/video]
...it's not always the saw which hurts you
[video=youtube;kHUtp5w3kis]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHUtp5w3kis&feature=related[/video]
...it's not always the saw which hurts you
I was lucky enough to be introduced to chainsaws by a friend who is very into safety. He has the whole kit, including the trousers.
The trousers have a gash in them approx where your femoral artery is. I dread to think what would've happened if he hadn't been wearing them at the time....
The trousers have a gash in them approx where your femoral artery is. I dread to think what would've happened if he hadn't been wearing them at the time....
My advice if cash is an issue to see if you qualify for any retraining grants to do the courses . Also the saw proof wellys are far cheaper than the boots ( about £50 compared to boots starting at £120) theyre hot and smelly to wear in this weather but offer equal protection . The maintenance side of the the courses are well worth it youll save a fortune if you know what your doing and casn fix the saw yourself . And lastly , trying not to sound patronising , takje great care , ive worked with saws for the last 20 years and process upwards of 600 tonnes of firewood every summer , but i would never loose respect for the machines and tools i use , very rarely you hear of just a close shave its usually really nasty when they catch you out .
Try to save up for the training you wont regret it !
ATB
Try to save up for the training you wont regret it !
ATB
In a previous life I was a tree surgeon. Heath, you are right, people are not born knowing how to use chainsaw. It is all learnt.
The thread seems rather negative and snobbish in my opinion.
Training:
In regards to training this is a great idea if you have the money. If not, there are a lot of places to learn from the tinternet. You can learn most things from books too.
This is a great site for a start:
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg317.pdf
Use:
Chainsaws can be lethal, but just be sensible. The biggest risk is "kickback". This occurs when the chain moving forward touches an object and the result is the saw kicking up and back towards the operator.
This helps explain it as a start:
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/afag301.pdf
Personal Protection:
This is a MUST. As other poster have stated you need this. Proper chainsaw gloves, boots, helmet and ear defenders.
This place has a good selection:
http://www.honeybros.com/index.php?...Clothing&sid=r724m31087i5v0yk55266rv9t9a177km
Chainsaw:
Stihl and Husqvarna are the best no doubt. But in reality they are expensive. I used a cheap Alpina chainsaw for 4 years. It was used professionally and could do everything a Husky or Stihl could. A real workhorse. It only needed basic maintenance and was abused daily and never let me down. It is now retired (12 years old) and spends its days at my father's place. It still works and is used occasionally for cutting firewood.
Something like this:
http://www.mowermagic.co.uk/acatalog/Alpinachainsaws.html
As others have said, get a smaller guide bar if possible as this gives better control. An 12" guide bar will cut a 24" log.
Go with a ground saw, one handle on top, one at back. Do not get the smaller (and more expensive) top-handled saws as these are for use in a tree.
Maintenance of the saw is important and again can be learnt on the net.
Be safe and don't listen to chainsaw snobs; find something in your budget, read reviews online and go for it.
No relation to websites posted etc
**If I can help or offer advice, feel free to PM me.**
The thread seems rather negative and snobbish in my opinion.
Training:
In regards to training this is a great idea if you have the money. If not, there are a lot of places to learn from the tinternet. You can learn most things from books too.
This is a great site for a start:
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg317.pdf
Use:
Chainsaws can be lethal, but just be sensible. The biggest risk is "kickback". This occurs when the chain moving forward touches an object and the result is the saw kicking up and back towards the operator.
This helps explain it as a start:
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/afag301.pdf
Personal Protection:
This is a MUST. As other poster have stated you need this. Proper chainsaw gloves, boots, helmet and ear defenders.
This place has a good selection:
http://www.honeybros.com/index.php?...Clothing&sid=r724m31087i5v0yk55266rv9t9a177km
Chainsaw:
Stihl and Husqvarna are the best no doubt. But in reality they are expensive. I used a cheap Alpina chainsaw for 4 years. It was used professionally and could do everything a Husky or Stihl could. A real workhorse. It only needed basic maintenance and was abused daily and never let me down. It is now retired (12 years old) and spends its days at my father's place. It still works and is used occasionally for cutting firewood.
Something like this:
http://www.mowermagic.co.uk/acatalog/Alpinachainsaws.html
As others have said, get a smaller guide bar if possible as this gives better control. An 12" guide bar will cut a 24" log.
Go with a ground saw, one handle on top, one at back. Do not get the smaller (and more expensive) top-handled saws as these are for use in a tree.
Maintenance of the saw is important and again can be learnt on the net.
Be safe and don't listen to chainsaw snobs; find something in your budget, read reviews online and go for it.
No relation to websites posted etc
**If I can help or offer advice, feel free to PM me.**
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spot on echobelly !
here's my pennys worth
As a professional Arborist and forester i use a chainsaw day to day, everthing that echobelly has put is to the mark !
get your self some PPE
helmet with ear defenders and a full face visor
leather gloves
buy some stilh wellys...cheap and do the job well £60
as for the trousers i would get some chaps...cheaper but still give you the protection. but if your looking at doing more than just cutting fire wood i would buy some better trousers (class "C" )
as for the saw i would buy a stilh, which you can pick up in your price range.....
to make things safer for your self use a saw horse to cut your fire wood.(as seen in British reds pic)
yes chain saws are dangerours so just be careful and imho a hand saw is more dangerous ! as your less careful with one.
when you can save up the money and do a chainsaw coarse.
if you need any advise just PM me
Bear
here's my pennys worth
As a professional Arborist and forester i use a chainsaw day to day, everthing that echobelly has put is to the mark !
get your self some PPE
helmet with ear defenders and a full face visor
leather gloves
buy some stilh wellys...cheap and do the job well £60
as for the trousers i would get some chaps...cheaper but still give you the protection. but if your looking at doing more than just cutting fire wood i would buy some better trousers (class "C" )
as for the saw i would buy a stilh, which you can pick up in your price range.....
to make things safer for your self use a saw horse to cut your fire wood.(as seen in British reds pic)
yes chain saws are dangerours so just be careful and imho a hand saw is more dangerous ! as your less careful with one.
when you can save up the money and do a chainsaw coarse.
if you need any advise just PM me
Bear
Thanks for all the advice folks, and especially for the offer of more advice if necessary. I might see if I can find a local tree surgeon that can offer some basic training. To be honest I'm still not sure whether I'm ready to go down the chainsaw route at the moment as it sounds like quite a large outlay for something I won't actually be using that often. I might see what I can do with wedges, saws and axes. Thanks for the great advice though and especially for the more encouraging replies.
Axes!!!!!!!
:yikes: Axes are not for amateurs. They are for professionals or those trained by professionals....
Heath: Don't be put off. It is not rocket science.
I've seen people in SE Asia using chainsaws in flip-flops, shorts and smoking a fag :yikes: If they can do it, so can you!!!
Again, feel free to PM if I can help. I don't mind answering basic questions. I'm a qualified tree surgeon and can point you in the right direction.
I've seen people in SE Asia using chainsaws in flip-flops, shorts and smoking a fag :yikes: If they can do it, so can you!!!
Again, feel free to PM if I can help. I don't mind answering basic questions. I'm a qualified tree surgeon and can point you in the right direction.
Whatever chainsaw you go for make sure there's a proper local dealer that knows how to repair it and service it.
If you can get one that has a vertically split crankcase and separate cylinder not one of the clamshell ones with the horizontally split crankcase that has the cylinder cast into the top half.
Oh and the better small saws have an adjustable chain oiler as opposed to a non adjustable one.
That said I do own a Stihl 017 with clamshell crankcases and non adjustable chain oiler that's working a champ but I got it for nowt so it doesn't owe me anything, if it dies tomorrow I still couldn't complain.
Don't go thinking you need a massive chainsaw as the big ones are pretty numb for cutting most firewood and you can see some bumf about sharpening the chains HERE cos I copied the Carlton sharpening PDF and bunged it up on a host site.
I would go as far as to say that its worth downloading it and printing off in Booklet form so you can read it properly.
I've just bunged a tree felling and crosscutting safety guide up that I've found on the net a while ago HERE also but its no substitute for proper training so don't come running to me when you chop your legs off.
Regards Scott.
If you can get one that has a vertically split crankcase and separate cylinder not one of the clamshell ones with the horizontally split crankcase that has the cylinder cast into the top half.
Oh and the better small saws have an adjustable chain oiler as opposed to a non adjustable one.
That said I do own a Stihl 017 with clamshell crankcases and non adjustable chain oiler that's working a champ but I got it for nowt so it doesn't owe me anything, if it dies tomorrow I still couldn't complain.
Don't go thinking you need a massive chainsaw as the big ones are pretty numb for cutting most firewood and you can see some bumf about sharpening the chains HERE cos I copied the Carlton sharpening PDF and bunged it up on a host site.
I would go as far as to say that its worth downloading it and printing off in Booklet form so you can read it properly.
I've just bunged a tree felling and crosscutting safety guide up that I've found on the net a while ago HERE also but its no substitute for proper training so don't come running to me when you chop your legs off.
Regards Scott.
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Axes!!!!!!!
:yikes: Axes are not for amateurs. They are for professionals or those trained by professionals....
I saw that one coming.
Thanks for the encouragement and offer of advice Echobelly and thanks for linking those instructionals Demographic.
