Canoeing in the Ardeche (for less)

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mortalmerlin

Forager
Aug 6, 2008
246
0
Belgium (ex-pat)
We have been traveling to the Ardeche in the south of France and camping as a family of four for a number of years. So I thought I would add it here as a suggested destination and give some idea of what it all costs.

The Ardeche region in France is a protected area which the public are allowed to access (with certain restrictions - No fires, no wild camping, no picking flowers and no litter). The gorge itself is breath taking and offers the opportunity for excellent canoeing. Since the area is very popular there are a lot of companies offering canoe rental at competitive rates.

Compared to other courses offered by well known companies at 1200 pounds per head (not including travel), two weeks for about 1000 Euro for four isn't bad.

For the practicalities;

Camp sites: The best plan is to camp close to Vallon Pont d'Arc as the stretch that you normally canoe lies between there and St Martin d'Ardeche, 30 odd km downstream. There are lots of sites to choose from but it's always pretty full in peak season so it's best to book in advance. The sites closest to Vallon tend to be for the English, Germans and Dutch and have fancy pools etc and are everything I dislike about campsites. The best sites in my opinion are the more modest ones from Pont d'Arc down that are on the bank of the river and in amongst the trees. We always use the same site which also runs a canoe rental operation. I haven't tried them all so I can't say which is best but it's clean and we know them, they know us, you know how it is. We always like to camp close to the river to get the best view and it's easy to get down and mess about in the water. As the water is fast moving and full of fish mosquitoes don't seem to be to much of a problem. If you're going to cook it has to be gas, no fires are allowed and that includes charcoal BBQ's.

The price of the site is 19 Euro for 2 people per day and 1 car, with an extra 8 Euro per person over 7. Electricity is also available for 3.50 Euro per day. We use a caravan, not very bushcrafty I know but much easier if you have the wife and kids with you. Also has the advantage of not getting flooded when it rains (and believe me it knows how to rain there). Most people take small tents but there is opportunity to use tarps as there are plenty of trees around, best to take a pole or two though just in case the tree is in the wrong place.

The link for the site we use is http://www.camping-camp-des-gorges.com/uk/camping.htm

Canoeing: Most companies offer three options for canoeing 7km and 25km in one day or 32km in two days. For all the options the company will take you by bus in the morning to the start and collect you from the end. For those wanting to do the 2 day trip you have to arrange a place at one of the two small sites in the gorge in advance. It costs something like 8 Euro per person per night. There are really three sites but one of them is a naturist site so probably not everyones cup of tea :) . The rapids themselves are pretty easy and you will kind of pick up the jist of canoeing on the way down. There is not much given in the way of training but it's not that hard. Being able to swim is a absolute must.

Cost of the canoeing is 15 Euro for the 7km, 25 Euro for 25km and 35 Euro for the 32km. The price includes (apart from the canoe) a life jacket, loan a water proof barrel, bus trip and a handy piece of string to hold your glasses on. Helmets are also available but you will be instantly identifiable as English should you choose to wear one. The weather can be very hot or raining, windy and cold and can change in an hour so take a hat, sunscreen and a light waterproof, plus food and water.

Traveling: We drive down from where we live just outside Brussels, it's about a 1000km each way and about 12hours including stops so for us about 100 liters of fuel each way and 56.70 Euro in tolls with a caravan. It's less if your in a normal car but keep it under 2 meters tall to fit through the fast tolls. If your coming over from the UK Norfolk line is about the cheapest at 21.50 Euro each way. Or you can fly down with Ryan Air which is pretty cheap.

Other stuff: There is plenty to do in the region after you have recovered from your canoe trip. It's France so the food and wine is good and not expensive. A trip to Vallon in the evening at the weekend is worth while.

Hope someone finds this helpful. I would post a few pics but haven't worked out how to do that yet :)
 

Wallenstein

Settler
Feb 14, 2008
753
1
46
Warwickshire, UK
Sounds fantastic - a canoe trip in the Ardeche is on my list of "must do before I die".

Is this the same place Ray Mears (May His Name Be Blessed Wherever Woodsmoke Gets In Yer Eyes) tried his spear-fishing on his Wild Food show?

Once my little one is old enough to come camping, I think this might end up being our first major foreign holiday.

Would love to see some pics!
 

crazydave

Settler
Aug 25, 2006
858
1
54
Gloucester
I looked at this around 6 years ago as I wanted a good warm river to take the explorers on. unfortunately you cant do the whole river only a couple of bits of it with no camping except at designated spots and its was too expensive. we would have had to book at the local giant campsite and book all excursions as extras. there are a lot of restrictions in the park area as well so we deemed it as a no go and they went to finland for a fortnight instead.

if you want a normal river experience then the wye seems to be the best place in the uk for it.
 

crazydave

Settler
Aug 25, 2006
858
1
54
Gloucester
I looked at this around 6 years ago as I wanted a good warm river to take the explorers on. unfortunately you cant do the whole river only a couple of bits of it with no camping except at designated spots and its was too expensive. we would have had to book at the local giant campsite and book all excursions as extras. there are a lot of restrictions in the park area as well so we deemed it as a no go and they went to finland for a fortnight instead.

if you want a normal river experience then the wye seems to be the best place in the uk for it.
 

shep

Maker
Mar 22, 2007
930
3
Norfolk
This is great info, thanks.
If no fires are allowed, how do Woodlore get away with it on their course? Or is it a bushcraft course cooking on gas?
 

mortalmerlin

Forager
Aug 6, 2008
246
0
Belgium (ex-pat)
This is great info, thanks.
If no fires are allowed, how do Woodlore get away with it on their course? Or is it a bushcraft course cooking on gas?

Not sure if they use fires there, never done their course. It's in the same place they use, just at a campsite up the road. As far as I understand the whole area has a ban on campers starting fires but maybe there is some exemption on a camp site with the owners permission.

But then again it's France so the law is more of a guideline. We often see people with small fires on the river bank in front of the camp site late into the night.
 

mortalmerlin

Forager
Aug 6, 2008
246
0
Belgium (ex-pat)
Ardeche1.gif


Ardeche2.gif


campsite.gif


Last is a picture of the pitch at the site.
 

DoctorSpoon

Need to contact Admin...
Nov 24, 2007
623
0
Peak District
www.robin-wood.co.uk
Ahhhh happy memories. We used to go there regularly when I was a kid, usually camping at St Martin and several times paddling down from Vallon. The best times I remember were spending evenings around dusk perched on the back of my Dad's kayak, feet trailing in the water, as we pottered quietly around watching the fish, kingfishers and other wildlife.

That must be 25-30 years ago! I went back maybe 15 years ago with Robin when we had a holiday hitch hiking around France. We hitched to Vallon, left most of our gear with the canoe hire company, then spent a couple of days paddling down to St Martin where they collected our canoes and returned our rucksacks. Robin spent many happy hours failing to spear fish in the shallow waters, much to my amusement!

My kids now love canoeing so I guess I'll have to go back there with them soon.
Nicola
 

John Fenna

Lifetime Member & Maker
Oct 7, 2006
23,136
2,874
66
Pembrokeshire
I spent 3 months working for one of the British companies that run holidays for kiddies on the Ardeche, coaching their river guides and acting as a "River Leader". The river is great but to get away from the crowds you need to start the trip well above the main gorge.
A couple of days paddling up river of Vallon the river is still beautiful, if not so dramatic, and I often had it all to myself!
The gorge itself is not to be missed - but remember that every year the river claims lives (normally drunken tourists who should not be near a river!) and it is quite a tricky river to paddle, with lots of good rapids.
Follow sensible precautions (wear a Buoyancy aid even if it is hot etc) and even inexperienced paddlers can have fun here.
Beware the wild boar!
 

mortalmerlin

Forager
Aug 6, 2008
246
0
Belgium (ex-pat)
I spent 3 months working for one of the British companies that run holidays for kiddies on the Ardeche....

You were working for PGL at a guess. I first started going to the Ardeche with them when I was 12 (24 years ago, now I am feeling old).

We tend to find the tourists come along in batches as the canoe companies let them into the water at set(ish) times. If you have your own canoe or can arrange some other method of getting back you can set off later in the day and you will see almost no one. I have an inflatable we take down the mini decent from Vallon to Chames (wouldn't risk it on the long decent), wife drops us off and after Pon't d'Arc your all alone. But you feel much more aware that if something goes wrong your on your own.
 

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