I have an impending car purchase so I need some cash.
Most of these are incomplete experiments and proto types.
first up No. 1
the hammax
I was given some old hammers by imagedude a couple of months back and I thought I would have a bash at making my first axe thing.
I reused the little wedge thing that you put in the top of the handle to stop the head falling off and obviously a new handle. Does any one know if it is made from a hardenable steel as it got roasted out in the forge to free it from the hammer head prior to forging? So I re hardened it anyway.
The axe/hawk is only small with a 2 inch cutting face and is only about a foot long. I have had a go at a laurel branch with it and each strike cuts about 1 cm into the wood so its a pretty fast cutter but as the face is quite small I think I will leave the giant sequoia to the chainsaws.
£40
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No.2
I have tried a few scandi knifes and scandi tang knives in my time and they always end up looking pretty crappy (maybe its because there are such good makers on this forum). I made the blade a couple of months ago and was not quite sure if I should sell it or not. Well over the Xmas holidays I decided to try my own wares so I had a bash
The blade is 5160 carbon steel that is flat ground with a scandi tang. I did a edge quench and cleaned it up and popped it in some ferric acid to see how are where and IF there was an temper line and lo and behold I got a hamon that I believe is quite hard on 5160 as it cools a lot slower that many other steels.
I made a bolster by drilling out some 8mm nickel silver flat bar and using small files I shaped it for the tang. Nickel silver is not that nice to work with, as it seems to get very hot and does not cool easily.
I used some black Vulcan fibre on either side of a piece of turquoise, both were bought from Dennis from brisa.
For the handle I looked for the least figured bit of maple I had as I assumed I was going to balls it up like many time before. The handle was sanded down oiled and waxed.
The blade is about 12cm long and the handle is about 15cm. I tried to blance the drop on the handle with the drop on the blade.
I am not 100% happy with this knife as the blade is not centered properly but i could be removed and rehoused.
£40
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No. 3
I have been footering about with various designs and I thought I would try making a knife with similar dimensions to a folder but with very simple lines.
I made profile of this one, I had planned to make it a scandi grind but when it came to grinding it out i ended up making it a flat grind.
7inch in total with a 3.5 blade and 3.5 tang
2cm wide
Bocote handles
3x 1/8 stainless mosaic pin
£35
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No.4
I have been footering about with Bushcraft type knives for a while now and this is my latest. I have fallen in love with scandi shapes at the moment and I wanted to make a fusion between a fuller and a forged scandi knife.
The blade and handle are both about 7mm longer than a WL.
O1 steel for the blade was brought up to welding temp with borax to achive a forge finnish even though the blade has never seen a hammer. It was given a full blade quench in warm oil and tempered at 250C for a RC of 58. I thought that a forge finnish would be better on a working knife as it does not show scratches etc as much as a polished blade.
The handle is made with Box Elder burl that have been stabilised but not dyed.
I use quarter inch stainless mosaic pins and a 6mm lanyard tube.
I used some black fibre from brisa to highlight the tang a little.
£70 (stab wood aint cheap)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
PM ME IF INTERESTED PLOIZE
Most of these are incomplete experiments and proto types.
first up No. 1
the hammax
I was given some old hammers by imagedude a couple of months back and I thought I would have a bash at making my first axe thing. I reused the little wedge thing that you put in the top of the handle to stop the head falling off and obviously a new handle. Does any one know if it is made from a hardenable steel as it got roasted out in the forge to free it from the hammer head prior to forging? So I re hardened it anyway.
The axe/hawk is only small with a 2 inch cutting face and is only about a foot long. I have had a go at a laurel branch with it and each strike cuts about 1 cm into the wood so its a pretty fast cutter but as the face is quite small I think I will leave the giant sequoia to the chainsaws.
£40
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
No.2
I have tried a few scandi knifes and scandi tang knives in my time and they always end up looking pretty crappy (maybe its because there are such good makers on this forum). I made the blade a couple of months ago and was not quite sure if I should sell it or not. Well over the Xmas holidays I decided to try my own wares so I had a bash
The blade is 5160 carbon steel that is flat ground with a scandi tang. I did a edge quench and cleaned it up and popped it in some ferric acid to see how are where and IF there was an temper line and lo and behold I got a hamon that I believe is quite hard on 5160 as it cools a lot slower that many other steels.
I made a bolster by drilling out some 8mm nickel silver flat bar and using small files I shaped it for the tang. Nickel silver is not that nice to work with, as it seems to get very hot and does not cool easily.
I used some black Vulcan fibre on either side of a piece of turquoise, both were bought from Dennis from brisa.
For the handle I looked for the least figured bit of maple I had as I assumed I was going to balls it up like many time before. The handle was sanded down oiled and waxed.
The blade is about 12cm long and the handle is about 15cm. I tried to blance the drop on the handle with the drop on the blade.
I am not 100% happy with this knife as the blade is not centered properly but i could be removed and rehoused.
£40
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
No. 3
I have been footering about with various designs and I thought I would try making a knife with similar dimensions to a folder but with very simple lines.
I made profile of this one, I had planned to make it a scandi grind but when it came to grinding it out i ended up making it a flat grind.
7inch in total with a 3.5 blade and 3.5 tang
2cm wide
Bocote handles
3x 1/8 stainless mosaic pin
£35
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
No.4
I have been footering about with Bushcraft type knives for a while now and this is my latest. I have fallen in love with scandi shapes at the moment and I wanted to make a fusion between a fuller and a forged scandi knife.
The blade and handle are both about 7mm longer than a WL.
O1 steel for the blade was brought up to welding temp with borax to achive a forge finnish even though the blade has never seen a hammer. It was given a full blade quench in warm oil and tempered at 250C for a RC of 58. I thought that a forge finnish would be better on a working knife as it does not show scratches etc as much as a polished blade.
The handle is made with Box Elder burl that have been stabilised but not dyed.
I use quarter inch stainless mosaic pins and a 6mm lanyard tube.
I used some black fibre from brisa to highlight the tang a little.
£70 (stab wood aint cheap)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
PM ME IF INTERESTED PLOIZE
