any tips for using ceramic wool (in a small tin can furnace)
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If it is like a compressed or semi fluffy mat, use large sharp scissors.
It is similar to Asbestos, correct?
Remember, if you want to line with it, it needs to be fairly oversize so it will stay in place.
It is similar to Asbestos, correct?
Remember, if you want to line with it, it needs to be fairly oversize so it will stay in place.
Would this be pink fiberglass insulation? House wall/roof stuff?
Use old scissors and cut a little oversize.
It's abrasive and does not insulate well if compressed more than 50%.
Rare to find any asbestos floc in the market any more at all.
Use old scissors and cut a little oversize.
It's abrasive and does not insulate well if compressed more than 50%.
Rare to find any asbestos floc in the market any more at all.
It is not Asbestos. The stuff he mentions is used a lot by Dental Techs, plus us dentists when we work with fire.
Looks like Asbestos, feels and cuts like Asbestos, but is not Asbestos.
Looks like Asbestos, feels and cuts like Asbestos, but is not Asbestos.
make sure it goes all the way round the inside and overlap it, the best way to overlap it is to use a thermal brick on the bottom and lay the wool underneath it, don't pack it too tight , make sure your flame is outside the packing, and seal the intrusion of the flame as best you can.
You can cut it with regular paper scissors, provided they are long enough to get a bite on the thickness of insulation you are using (1" thick needs bigger scissors than 1/2", obviously) They need to be sharp-ish, but they will not stay that way long! Ceramic insulation is much more blunting than cutting the sort of glass fibre insulation batting used in houses. Wear gloves! It is a lot more likely to leave you prickled than modern house insulation.
As an example of what is possible with a small forge, this is a great page:
https://ronreil.abana.org/minifor1.shtml
There are a lot of discussion boards dedicated to metal workers where they discuss forge construction. I bet there is good info on Iforgeiron, Blade Forums and Don Fogg's forum.
There is a safety issue with ceramic insulation. After you construct the forge, you should give all the exposed ceramic wool surfaces a good soak with a rigidizer solution, then fire it to set it. This solution is little more than colloidal silica and water, mixed to a watery-milk consistency. The purpose is to prevent ceramic fibres from getting blown into the air by the combustion gasses. They may not be asbestos, but you do not want to be breathing them in either! It also makes the forge more robust.
I also strongly recommend using a fire brick for the base, if you are putting things in and out, unless you have them suspended up in the centre of the forge, supported on a rest outside of the forge, they are going to drag across the bottom of the forge at some point and Kaowool is going to get shredded in short order.
Chris
As an example of what is possible with a small forge, this is a great page:
https://ronreil.abana.org/minifor1.shtml
There are a lot of discussion boards dedicated to metal workers where they discuss forge construction. I bet there is good info on Iforgeiron, Blade Forums and Don Fogg's forum.
There is a safety issue with ceramic insulation. After you construct the forge, you should give all the exposed ceramic wool surfaces a good soak with a rigidizer solution, then fire it to set it. This solution is little more than colloidal silica and water, mixed to a watery-milk consistency. The purpose is to prevent ceramic fibres from getting blown into the air by the combustion gasses. They may not be asbestos, but you do not want to be breathing them in either! It also makes the forge more robust.
I also strongly recommend using a fire brick for the base, if you are putting things in and out, unless you have them suspended up in the centre of the forge, supported on a rest outside of the forge, they are going to drag across the bottom of the forge at some point and Kaowool is going to get shredded in short order.
Chris
Thanks for all the tips.
I intend giving it a go with the forge at the weekend (rugby permitting of course....) I have several blade blanks sawn out and filed to shape, hopefully get them pre-ground today or tomorrow (bent knife blades and elbow adze blades) prior to doing the bends...I am using some old unused tapered plane irons with inset steel edges, plus some steel I salvaged from a band saw works about 28 years ago. finally have a use for it...I'lllet you know what happens
I intend giving it a go with the forge at the weekend (rugby permitting of course....) I have several blade blanks sawn out and filed to shape, hopefully get them pre-ground today or tomorrow (bent knife blades and elbow adze blades) prior to doing the bends...I am using some old unused tapered plane irons with inset steel edges, plus some steel I salvaged from a band saw works about 28 years ago. finally have a use for it...I'lllet you know what happens
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