Advice about wood types please

Baggy

Settler
Oct 22, 2009
573
0
Essex, UK
www.markbaigent.co.uk
Hi all

I have access to some woods and I now have some sharp things, including a beautiful Ben Orford spoon knife, so I am trying to work out what to do with each wood. I am new to all wood work and I am happy to give most things a try.

The first is some felled/trimmed oak of about 2" in diameter to 4" in diameter.

The second is blackthorn, still standing, a couple of inches in diameter

The third is birch still standing but I can take smaller trees down and later in the year I will have access to large birch when it is felled.

I am assuming spoon carving for the birch, but I am not sure what to try with the oak and blackthorn, although tent pegs came to mind.

I wondered what you would use the wood for?
 

Ogri the trog

Mod
Mod
Apr 29, 2005
7,182
71
60
Mid Wales UK
Stick to the birch or find some willow to start with, they'll be the easiest woods to carve.
At the other end of the scale, oak and blackthorn will be like trying to carve iron in comparrison, not impossible but very hard work for a beginner.

ATB

Ogri the trog
 

Ray Britton

Nomad
Jun 2, 2010
320
0
Bristol
Hi.
It seems you do not have ideal woods available for your spoon knife.

If you are thinking of making spoons then lime wood is ideal. It is easy to carve and has natural antiseptic properties, which would be massively useful out in the field.

As you say, the oak would be good for tent pegs, or other items which need to be strong, yet also have a good resistance to rotting.

The last thing I carved in oak was a handle for my knife. It was great to work on it with power tools, but pretty hard with only hand tools. I did plan to make a Kuska out of the same oak tree, but my spoon carving knife would not even touch it.
 

Baggy

Settler
Oct 22, 2009
573
0
Essex, UK
www.markbaigent.co.uk
Hi all

Thanks for that. I have worked with a hardwood (ash) when I made a canoe paddle and that has was amazingly tough so I will avoid hardwoods other than for tent pegs for now. I will use (try and use) the birch as suggested but I will also look for lime.

My local woods are full of variety but I am still starting to learn which species the trees are. Does anyone know of a bushcraft list of tree species and uses?

Thanks again for the tips.
 

Ray Britton

Nomad
Jun 2, 2010
320
0
Bristol
Even though I work with wood, I know very little about it for bush craft use!

I do keep two tree identification apps on my iphone which are very useful.

A few things that spring to mind are (and I am sure many of posters will massively expand my list):

Willow, is good for carving, and has the ability to remove its bark from small diameter branches in one piece. This is useful for making whistles and tubes.

Hazel dries to become very very strong, and is lighter than aluminium for walking poles etc. It burns very well on a fire, and produces a good hot flame, even when quite damp or green. You can eat the hazel nuts when ripe

Lime is very easy to carve, and it naturally antiseptic

Hawthorn, does not burn at all well. Its thorns have lead to inflammation of the skin, and thorn punctures can be painful for days. You can eat the berries from this tree, but you can also eat the leaves too, which are know as 'bread and cheese'. This was obviously a name given by someone who ate stale cheese and bread :)

Alder just does not burn at all, but will only smoulder on the fire. It tends to look dead once it has fallen from the tree. But it does have a pithy inner, which can easily be removed to make blow pokers or tubing.

Birch. The out bark burns well, even from a small spark. The bark can be made into cups or pots, which if damp, can be placed onto embers to boil water in. Canoes can be made from the wood. It is not difficult to carve either.

Pine burns well. Its resin can be used as a candle, or can be put into a missing tooth filling to form a temporary cover. It is not good for carving, and makes tools sticky and blunt.

Oak, lasts forever, and resists rotting. it is very hard to carve if the piece is older than about four or five years old (in tree life terms). Its acorns can be eaten but you MUST blanch them thoroughly first to remove the tannin from them. Once this is done you can use then for bread and coffee

Walnut. Very pretty, but is hard to carve. This is a slow burning wood, so is better for roasting rather than boiling. You can eat the walnuts which are ripe in october time

Blackthorn. I find this similar to hawthorn

Elder. You can eat the elderberries, and burns better than alder (not surprisingly)

Sweet chestnut. A roasting wood, very pretty, and the chestnuts are edible raw or cooked (look up how to cook them, to avoid explosions)

Horse chestnut. Not actually related to sweet chestnut, but also has a pretty wood. Conkers are not edible

Yew. This is traditionally used for lots of bush craft stuff, but there are said to be curses placed on anyone who fells a yew tree (and especially from a church yard) Although I do not go in for superstitions, I do know of several tree surgeons who have had nasty accidents or died after working on Yews.

Cypress. This burns well

Cedar. A lovely coloured wood, which is ultralight weight once dried. It does not rot, as it contains its own natural source of oil, which will not dry out. This is a great fire starter once dried.

Those are just a few off the top of my head.

I am sure there are many on here, with an intimate knowledge of uses for wood in bushcraft.
 

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