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You’ve got to break through the cambium layer under the bark. And the sap will travel up and out of the pierced area.

Yes. I used to fill a few bottles between a couple of trees. I think the flow rate will be similar to any other technique as it’s the only area the sap is going to be coming out.

Coming from Cumbria most of my fishing was on still water and I really enjoyed it. Your definitely right about rivers though I can’t quite place what it is but they sure are more fun to fish.

I’ve got to admit the first year I moved to Wales I had some sensational fish. I’ve never quite had a season like my first year here. But alas it never lasts but you get the occasional whumper like the post posted that keeps the interest going.

Do not buy the Amazon ones. The grits are labeled wrong and they dish out extremely quickly. I bought one to try so I’m speaking from experience. Start with this and get the 1000 grit after it. With a good compound on a strop this will give you a good result. If your edge obsessed go for the 2k...

I caught my PB river brown trout with one. Right at the end of March 2019 it ruined the rest of the season for me. :laugh: Just over 28 inches in length.

You’ve done a lovely job there. The haft compliments it. I wouldn’t get hung up on HRC at all as edge retention is mainly down to steel type (carbide types and numbers) and the geometry. When it gets blunt you sharpen it. I’d be happy using that.

I’ve done both and to be honest I find that I intermix both disciplines on one project. You will get the feel where a chisel or knife will be better than a bur head. It does save a hell of a lot of time though.

I think I only ever tied them in green and brown. Really good fly for larger brown trout

The technique I have used in the past. I use the tip of my knife and lift a small section of bark. Just enough to fit a small twig under it. The sap drips off the twig into a bottle tied underneath. Once I’m finished I remove the twig and push the bark back down for a few seconds. The sap sticks...

The wood is birch Burl I felled a couple of years ago. On both knives. The Wynter is Wynter Forge which is my blade making business. Thank you for the compliments.

I’ve made a few Puukko types. Not with the materials you mention though as I tend to use locally sourced if I can. These two have fallow antler in them.

Welcome another one from Swansea here.

It was the western lakes mainly Ennerdale water. One of the local techniques is bubble and fly as a lot of fish cruise about quite far away from the shore.

Wouldn’t take any notice of most of that. A lot of it is ********

The handle looks great. A bit of advice on the blade. Hand sand the blade to the desired finish before putting the handle on. Once the handle is on it makes it really difficult to go back to it. Also when hand sanding have the scratches all going one direction this gives it a smarter finish. A...

I think they were traditionally made from black thorn too.

When I’m fishing euro nymph style I always use a jig hook on the bottom it does work. You’ll find a big difference when fishing on the bottom. They do get hung up still but it’s noticeable much less. The other thing I’ve used in the past is split shot on the bottom then having a fly a few inches...

Another one here who ties. When living in the Lake District stuff like the bibio, Zulu and soldier Palmer would take most my fish and they were incredibly easy to tie. Now I’m on the south wales rivers it’s mainly heavy nymph patterns that work. You can go into incredible detail like Oliver...

I remember it really well and it raised my eye brow as I was watching it.