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You see it reappear here after a short session on 6000 grit Japanese stone. It must indeed be the different steels. -Emile

In my Paul Baker damascus outback, the pattern reapppears when using finer stones and a final polish. I guess it depends on the damascus itself. This is a uhb20c/1095 mix. No need for etching in this one.

Yes, that's how the original classic/red handled KJ Mora knives were made - and I am looking for a batch of classic KJ #1 or #2 knives that have this construction. The newer KJ Erikssons has a bit shorter tang and are missing the clip at the back that your picture so clearly shows. Instead...

Nice efforts anbd the only way to explore this. From the pics I would build a more raised platform to begin with - away from the moist. Lots of moist is seeping though from the melted ground snow and you seem to be fighting that. A couple of bigger logs at the bottom will solve this. What I...

On second view - I think that you should make a better one for yourself and put this one up for sale ;)

Very nice. Bit of a Chelsea one, mate :) Get it dirty and scratched soon! -Emile

Yes, that's my plan B also. But any new ones floating around would be nice. Price wise it does not really matter - they seem to hold their value better than the average custom :) -Emile

Maybe some of you can help. For a project, I am after a couple of KJ/Eriksson classic red handled knives, model #1 or (preferably) #2 in plain carbon. I inspected several at a hardware store in Sweden and the new ones seem to have lost the rivet at the back, making them effectively a bit less...

Yes, but I need to move - I am getting too big for the property :)

IMO, Kellams prices are ridiculous. Just remarketed stuff. Buy a Lauri PT blade from Brisa and make your own 'wolverine' - these Lauri blades - even in plain carbon are really good.

Aww, ********. Well, 'there will be others'. Congrats, Andy! -Emile

I like those a lot, Jojo. If you were to drop the point a little on the smaller one it would be an even greater de-barker and whittler. The 2.5 mm thickness looks excellent. How wide are the handles? Could you do a spine shot? Cheers, -Emile

Cool post and a great drill. The notch being slightly off certainly does not mean that you will fail in getting a coal. Just as long as the notch collects enough, it should be fine. During the use, my freshly drilled holes often develop a habit of mis-aligning a bit. Unless it goes nowhere - I...

It are those pesky Higgs particles - again returning from the future to shut down the LHC for the second time...

Sterling Hair and Bushcraft supplies probably bought them all :)

In this scenario, why needlesly burn up those calories with chopping?? I would be more worried about carving out that fine notch for the bowdrill.. So, a small scandi, puukko or even better better - an ALU SAK with that handy small saw aboard. The lighter, the better. I guess that I am starting...

Sjeez - just keep away from the females when they have young and also steer clear when the boars are in rut. We have loads of them around here and I am never bothered by them. They are in hiding during the day (spruces and holly shrubs for resting places) and will mostly be nocturnally active -...

There is no single knife that will do it all 'with ease'. They all work better one way or another, so at best it is a compromise. For knife work - I more or less found peace with a Skookum Bush Tool in 3mm for the "large motor skills" and for detail work the Alu SAK. Sometimes, that AW...

Dpending on usage, a couple of coats of boiled linseed oil in a year will give both protection and a nice dark handle over time. My SFA turned pretty dark over time - that one started out with a white handle.