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thanks, it was slow grinding the bevels compared with other steels iv used. it surprised me that it held a 26 degree scandi i normally use 30 degree yet still held up to normal use and some mild abuse without chipping, more testing to do yet though. i wanted to try another scandi in 3mm with a...

the original grind was 9 degree's per side with a secondary bevel, i reground it to zero with a 13 degree per side bevel instead.

not happy at all with the saber grind, more than happy with the steel though so gave it a re grind and full scandi

thanks, have had that piece of D2 lying around in the workshop for over two years, am pleasantly surprised at its performance! testing the edge batoning through some seasoned ash and other chores. i thought D2 was supposed to be brittle and chippy but held up just fine. takes a bit more work...

a first for me using D2 steel, a 7" Leuku blade in 4.2mm D2 ground out and tested this afternoon.

thanks, finished another one today, same profile/steel, slightly different guard and handle

slight modification to the choil done.

it shouldnt be to difficult to grind the choil out a little further with a sanding drum, it may take a few drums and some time so i dont over heat it. as you say would give a cleaner profile... the more i look at it now the more i want to do it :)

saying that, it may be possible to rectify/modify extending the choil out further into the blade? or grind the bevel further back if i can get it onto the jig back to front? or just leave it like it is :)

your exactly right and im not entirely sure why i didn't do it on this? on the plus though it does leave room for a finger. i have another blade the same (i made two) that i will be beveling soon and will do just that

thanks, after finishing the heat treat/tempering i leave the blade in vinegar for a couple days to remove the anti scale compound and thats the texture it leaves. i like to leave it like that as gives it a rustic look contrasting with the clean grinds

thanks, a bit daunting at first but 14c28n is actually not too difficult to do, just requires some precise temperature control and timing it does work harden easily if your not careful but other than that is nice to work with

thanks, the micarta was supposed to be the same color but has a few different hue's. had to use up the scraps i had. the contrast should mellow and blend a bit better with age though

been working on this one today and just about finished sanding the handle before it got too dark for pic's. 6" blade from 4mm 14c28n stainless with stacked micarta/g10 handle

managed to re handle one of the "heavy duty's". nothing fancy just an old piece of hickory gave the blade a bit of a make over as well with a re grind, squaring of the spine and a tidy up.

Kansobol bottom compared to the hultafors craftsman (2.5mm)

its a strange one that Kansobol, in stainless. very light and very very thin at the tip. would make a good salt water fishing knife.

the other spare heavy duty, after handle removal and slight regrind/finish with a square spine. can confirm the tang stops at the "f" in hultafors on the handle.

I may have gotten a little carried away...

makers need time to develop there own style and you could spend a life time doing it. i rarely make two knives the same. i have on occasion done the odd commission if i like were its going but the customer is also paying for the extra time and work to get it exactly as they want it and is...