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after rough shaping, a few hours of sanding to go

after tapering the tang the scales are fixed, little bit of math needed to get the pins aligned as obviously the tang is no longer straight. will leave it overnight to cure

thank you to Chris for sending me some wood. im working on several other knives at the same time so progress may seem a bit slow. managed to cut/square it and have it clamped up with some black fibre liners.

it was specifically for a few scandis im making, just a quick job this morning. the blades are ground post heat treat so are flat. the wood is a little squishy but i'll re do them in some micarta or g10 when i get a spare moment.

may be of interest to the knife makers? for straightening warped blades out of the quench. my old jig was a little more awkward to use and took up a vice id prefered to have use for other things as well so knocked this up quick this morning for a new batch of blades. i used some rare earth...

thanks, they're not really for sale as more test knives, i have a standard heat treat method for o1 using the lower end of the austinitising temp, soak time and temper cycles which is secret but wanted to try something different again for one to see if it made any difference? there are actually...

that would be great, thank you if you have any of the curly redwood that you'de be willing to part with id love a chunk of that as well

it is is indeed a hell of a stash! i may be able to cut it? my bandsaw is a cheap screwfix one, its almost impossible to get it to cut straight, i end up having to square it on the linisher and loose a couple mm. thick would liners help id guess?, i do like the woodlore with a thicker handle...

top right in your first pic looks similar to what i was looking at, stabilised alder burl? that curly redwood is stunning! im not worried about square as have a bandsaw. the sizes i need are somewhere over 125mm x 40mm and thick enough to cut into scales over 12mm thick as gives me something to...

thanks. i keep looking but just cant find anything i like the look of, well... not strictly true... i have seen a few bits i did like but £50-£70 plus shipping

rough sanded and bevelled .

thanks, not sure what i'll use for the scales, at the moment all i have is micarta. seems to be a shortage of stabilised wood as cant find any that i like. one chap i used to get it from has been seriously ill for a while, brisa doesnt have much, and English hand made knives has little in stock

thanks, yes you'd think sheath last but i have some standard templates for various knife designs and then wet form to fit

thanks, not sure yet on the handle material, would like some nice stabilised wood but seems hard to find what i like. heat treated today with multiple ascending heat cycling finished with a double quench. tempering now

thanks, traditional scandi was the plan. i have tried a single bevel (chisel grind) on a knife before, to be honest i didnt really find much if any practical benefit to it, i could do the same with a traditional scandi and much more.

I'v never made a woodlore clone before as never really liked the look of them but recently thought would give one a go in 3mm o1. have ordered some 4mm as well and will update as i go. the sheaths a bit of a prototype to see how it fits as may need to adjust the template a little?

Now sold, thanks

i closed it a while back Bump

have never felt the need to pound on bone to break it with a knife, as mentioned above i push cut gently around the joint whilst separating it. bit like stipping cable without cutting the inner wire covering. some knives have a false edge along the spine specifically for breaking bone without...