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That's just the problem. They are designed to hold heat - so they take ages to warm up in comparison with, for example, soft firebricks. They don't reflect well (nor are they designed to). Got some, I use them as a shield for brazing outdoors occasionally, but they really are all-but useless.

OK, here's a better idea - DON'T USE GALV. Seriously. If you really, really have to use galvanised metal, pickle the zinc off with brick cleaner or something; it's a lot safer than inhaling the resulting vapours. As for breeze blocks, Thermalite-type blocks stand up to forge use quite well...

http://www.shorinternational.com/pliersend.htm Bottom one. I have a similar pair, but I've no idea where to get them in the UK.

Makes a good start point for all sorts of things... Bowls, for example? Funnily enough, I've just been doing much the same - although the insulation on this one peeled off fairly easily (assisted by a paint scraper) as it had been outside for a while. A colleague of mine just offloaded...

From what I remember of the video, it was just a bog standard grinder - albeit on a pedestal. I think that David Boye's book also covers the method. Not something I've done recently - no real point with a KMG sat there.

Would Bill Moran be enough of an exception? :D Non-hollowground is doable with a stone grinder (and not on the flat side); with practice it doesn't take all that much subsequent cleanup - but there's a reason for preferring belt grinders, they're a lot easier to work with. They also cost a...

8th is probably better for me, but only fractionally. Prince of Wales seems to have new landlords - which would account for things being more peacful in the village again...!

Thanks guys... Survived another year anyway!

I'd better make this one!

More info - http://www.mikesknives.co.uk/7.html

And tigers. The beach where I did my first open water dive, a woman had been fatally bit by one a couple of weeks previously. 'Course, I didn't find that out until after getting back to the UK... :) The black diadema? 'Orrible things.

I would have suggested the SAS Survival Handbook (Lofty Wiseman), but that postdates the Raleigh Chopper. I had a Striker.

Oh yes. But Tandy's cheaper tools are easier to get to the photos quick :)

Leatherworking is one of those crafts where the same tool seems to end up with multiple names - even between regions in the same country. Pictures are probably the easiest way to communicate. Groover, race or sometimes gouge: Double, screw or adjustable crease: V gouge: See...

You'll be lucky to find 440C scalpel & Stanley blades! One thing that needs emphasising (IMO) - none of these steels will perform well without a decent heat-treat. 440C is good, but out-of-fashion (and a lot of things labelled 440 are actually 440A). D2 is one that people either love or...

I've never worked out why geldings don't get a look-in on that one...

Remembering to take photos before getting the things out is not my forté, apparently... I'll see what I can do on that one - shouldn't be too difficult! (famous last words)

Er... Acrylics, quite thick in consistency, generally frowned upon by the higher-end airbrush users for that very reason; 2 ranges - AutoAir and Classic - of the two, AutoAir is supposed to be mechanically stronger, although I only use the classic ones. The classic are available in both opaque...

FWIW, I use Createx acrylics if I'm playing with polychrome. They require a moderately high pressure (relative to FW acrylic inks) through an airbrush due to the viscosity, but the opaque ones go on very cleanly, cover well & are surprisingly resilient.

You may be thinking of a crease rather than a groover here? A crease (single or double/adjustable) you heat - although you can do it cold - and use it to it displace & burnish a groove - whereas a groover or gouge removes a thin strip of leather.