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Whereas ALL of my historically accurate (or otherwise) tools are made to modern standards with proper job-appropriate materials and heat treating. Of course, I do charge a bit more than Dennis

All of the tools I use in the woods are painted forestry pink (hot fluorescent pink used to mark trees). I've found orange paint vanishes into the leaflitter and bracken from late summer right through to the spring, which is when I am working outside. I'm not concerned with pretty, I just don't...

I'm in the Victorinox swiss army camp. It may not be such good steel as some of those mentioned above, but they all do an awful lot more than just cut stuff and let's face it you have 'cutting stuff' tools a plenty in your existing kit ;)

Daegrad does make a huge variety of things, but it's worth mentioning that the tools are made for reenactors and not all of the tools work very well ;) For show and tell they are fine, but S275JR structural steel is just mild steel (0.2% carbon) and won't hold an edge. His research is top...

if you want an accurate look, then go wood. Extremely few seaxes exist with metal pommels (I can think of only one off the top of my head), very few have much in the handle other than a single bit of wood really. Of course it's all personal preference with a modern creation, so go with what you...

I was impressed with how well Kasia behaved around my pitch, especially given how bad most adults can be near fire and sharp shiny things! I didn't hear her tearing around the woods either. :)

Yep, these were all that I had planned for the year. I'm still running private courses (1-2-1 or pairs in my workshop, or private groups outside) all through the year by arrangement though :)

I'd take off any loose bits and sharp corners, then clean and oil them. If they are split, i'd dribble thin ca (superglue) in there first. It'll not stand up to much pounding, but will be fine for light hitting and hand pushing. With the rasp, you can sometimes give them a little life by...

That's a good point. I only have one size kit, so hadn't thought about that. I have several sizes of pin and lengths of pto shaft, but tend to leave them attached to the implement in case i lise them!

I've only just seen this thread, but was going to say it's the ball off a 3pnt linkage or similar. They usually wear rather than fall out though!

It is properly wet out there now :( Don't forted your waders and possibly your snorkel!

Ah the joys of ebay and couriers! At least it turned up in the end :D Glad the growl helped too I found the oven better for the flattening and general shaping too. The industrial hair dryer is good for belt loops and fine tuning the fit and shaping, espesically if you have a fine nozzle for it.

Nicely done sir :) I found the oven worked much better for me when it came to the the initial flattening at least. What did you do on the back for belt loops?

Model engineering sites/shops are a good source of brass rivets like that. The sort that make model engines, not painted figures and beads. Or buy brass wire and make your own

Small burns are more difficult to control than larger ones, things don't scale down that well. That said, a 200l oil drum isn't too hard and will give about a wheel barrow full of charcoal. An oil drum only takes a day to stack, burn and cool; so easy to experiment with If you go that route...

yeah. I still want one :D I use an Arbortech turbo plane to carve spades from 2" thick oak boards. It's the same type of thing but 110mm across and fits an angle grinder. It's amazing how much material you can carve of with very little pressure!

that was a lovely little video :) I need to shuffle my forge and power hammer around so I can sit down. The drill/morticer is a nice looking bit of kit (I like the huge counterweight to lift the quill instead of a spring). Like Stew, I loved the handle shaping disc. Looking at the shavings...

Typical. Those lists are crazy and randomly specific in places too! I sent DHL a message asking for clarification, but i doubt I will get any

It looks like DHL are OK, both domestic and international delivery. They don't specifically mention knives or bladed items (though antiques and works of art are). They 'might' class them under the 'dangerous goods' heading, but I can't find any clarification as to what they consider dangerous...

for goodness sake!!! :censored: when did royal fail institute these new regs? I have sent goodness knows how many 'bladed articles' abroad with them! Several over the last few months too. So far I've not heard of any having been stopped or opened, so they clearly don't x-ray everything for...