Leatherwork tools for two small jobs

[Chris]

I would like to consult the BCUK Megabrain regarding two jobs I'd like to carry out in the near future, if I may.

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Project 1 - Skrama sheath

I want to make a wet formed leather sheath for my new Skrama. Just a simple (but sturdy) leather sheath with a belt loop on it.

Project 2 - Fälty Glove Repair

I want to repair the two split seams on my Hestra Fält Guide gloves. The leather is undamaged, the thread has just gone.

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I have some waxed linen thread, but I will need to source the following:

1. A few different sized leatherworking needles. The gloves required a rather small/thin one but the sheath will be a bit beefier.
2. Some sturdy leather for making the sheath
3. Something to cut the leather with
4. A hole pokey thing to make holes for stitches
5. Whatever I need to treat the raw edges of the leather once it's been cut

Any advice on the above would be most helpful. If anyone can recommend a basic toolkit which encompasses a few of the things I need that'll last me a good while for future projects as well, that'd be even more greatlier appreciated.

 

[Chainsaw]

You can do most of this with makeshift stuff if it's a one off.
1. Saddlers needles sizes no 2, small enough for detail big enough for a sheath. Pack of 25 will do a long time. You can get John James needles from Etsy and others
2. The eternal problem! veg tan Shoulders 3 - 3½mm should be fine for a sheath, not too chunky but thick enough. google the above, not sure who is best these days, a quick google threw up a lot
3. I use a stanley knife with a new blade. Steel rule, a very careful score then carefully follow up.
4. Fork to mark the stitch hole locations and either an awl from the toolbox or a nail? Alternatively an overstich wheel 6 to 1" and a saddlers awl (diamond cross section) - amazon?
5. Bit of wood and saliva Alternatively edge kote or Gum Tragacanth (cake shops!) to edge finish and a fancy smancy antler edge thingy. I use a 20mm square bit of scrap wood, as long as you get heat/friction saliva work fine, more authentic!

HTH

 

[Pattree]

Thimble?

 

[Buckshot]

are you going to the makers meet next month?
If so you might be able to arrange a session with a talented individual...

 

[Broch]

These work perfectly well despite being cheap:

https://amzn.eu/d/5FDrwrT - these are 3mm spacing but others are 4,5 or 6mm

I have 2.5mm and 3.5mm veg tanned leather; happy to send you a piece. 300mm x 200mm is probably enough but let me know once you've drawn your pattern. Don't forget the welt to protect the stitching. I'll put in a few different sized needles as well.

Raw edges - rub really hard with a damp piece of canvas (generate some heat) before staining or polishing.

 

[Chris]

These work perfectly well despite being cheap:

https://amzn.eu/d/5FDrwrT - these are 3mm spacing but others are 4,5 or 6mm

I have 2.5mm and 3.5mm veg tanned leather; happy to send you a piece. 300mm x 200mm is probably enough but let me know once you've drawn your pattern. Don't forget the welt to protect the stitching. I'll put in a few different sized needles as well.

Raw edges - rub really hard with a damp piece of canvas (generate some heat) before staining or polishing.

Thanks Broch - what would you want for the leather and needles? You have correctly pointed out I should probably draw out my pattern first, so I shall do that.

 

[Chris]

are you going to the makers meet next month?
If so you might be able to arrange a session with a talented individual...

Still unsure on that one, but a good shout if I am able to attend.

 

[Broch]

Thanks Broch - what would you want for the leather and needles? You have correctly pointed out I should probably draw out my pattern first, so I shall do that.

All yours
PM me your address and how much you need.

 

[Chris]

All yours
PM me your address and how much you need.

Very kind of you Broch, thanks. I'll measure up the knife tomorrow and drop you a message.

 

[Tengu]

I will be at the makers event and I will have my kit.

 

[HKep1]

Hi Chris, it’s already been said by Broch and Chainsaw but I’ve got to get my post count up so I can PM folk, lol.

1, John James number 2 and number 4 needles from Etsy, Amazon, identity leather craft, Abbey England, (hold that thought) they’re a blunt tip, as opposed to every day sewing needles and don’t mar the leather if you catch it as you’ve already made the holes to stitch through. (We’ll come to that) I’d look at JJ glovers needles, for the gloves, bit finer as the leathers thinner and thus the holes are smaller and more likely to tear out with a larger needle n thread.

2, un dyed russet shoulder 3-3.5mm is ideal for sheaths and takes wet forming really well, dyed through shoulder can also be wet formed it just depends on wether you want dye it yourself or not. (You can make vinergroon, which is wire wool soaked in vinegar, this will dye russet leather black) was used for centuries (romans used iron nails and wine vinegar) before fiebings, but I digress.
Identity leather, abbey England from whole hides to shoulders, to bridal backs. Amazon will proved project pieces but you pay through the nose. (Shoulders have more stretch than backs so lend themselves to wet forming, backs are better for belts, tack, strapping that sort of gear) again if I could PM, I’d be happy to send you some.

3, Any utility knife with a fresh blade. Round knives, half rounds etc can be used but depending on how far down the rabbit hole you want to go, stick to a carpet fitters Stanley knife and a pack of blades.

4, Stitching irons, you can get these off Amazon, Etsy, if it’s just a one or two off, go for the Chineseium generic brands cheap as chips, easy to replace if you drop one, if your looking at leather craft more deeply, you could look into KS blade punch and other higher end irons for hand stitching, which cut a hole through the leather. (they’re teeth are angled creating a more aesthetic stitch) American leatherwork is, shall we say, more ‘utilitarian’ with a less angled stitch, mainly a hole and even unfinished edges in some cases, the former can be obtained by using a dremmel and a .5 -1mm drill bit, that’s personal preference, but the latter, edge finishing, is a functional aspect of the finished piece (we’re getting there) lol.
Awl work is an art in itself, takes a lot of practice and what stitching wheels were used with originally, forks to a degree can be used for hole marking, but tend to be greater than 7 stitches per inch, granted you could bend the fork tines to 7 spi but by the time you’ve messed about you’ve already ordered a set of cheap irons. Thing with awls is the back side of the piece will look like a dogs breakfast if your not practiced. IMO.

5, edge finishing or slicking is used to seal the cut edge of the piece, used for vegetable tanned leathers, to seal the cut edge from moisture ingress. Again, a slicker can be ordered off the interweb, but if you know anyone with a wood lathe ask them to knock you one up, a piece of brush handle and a couple of round files of different diameter for ringing a groove will do,
Slicking lays the fibres flat with friction, gum tragacanth is the go to edge finisher as a general rule, but spittle works just as well, (lick it and slick it) some also use beeswax but this is more of a Matt finish, again, your piece, your call.
Dye the edges first, if you are dying them, before slicking, as you’ll more than likely end up with a patchy edge, which looks bad, ask me how I know.
You can also use edge paints as well which are a just that, a flexible paint applied to the unfinished surface, used mainly for chromium tanned leathers as they can’t be traditionally finished, (slicked).

Anyhoo, sorry I’ve waffled on, hope this helps.

 

[HKep1]

lol just noticed the thread dates