I'm with Robin on this 110%
I visit Norway often and Sweden fairly regularly. In fact, I used to show and sell my knives there in years past, at events like the Nordic Hunting and Fishing Festival at Elverum and similar. Many of the knives sold over there and made by the traditional knifemakers are not, in fact, zero ground in the so-called "Scandi" grind like so many folks assume. I used to see a lot of them that were sold from the maker with a secondary micro bevel and most of the makers had stories to tell of knives that come back for re-grinding after long service, when the secondary bevel reaches the point where the owner can no longer effectively sharpen it.
In fact, if you look at how most Scandinavian knives are made they are ground on fairly large diameter water cooled wheels which gives the appearance of a flat grind but it is, in fact, hollow ground, just with a very shallow curve. This is even less noticeable on the knives you see made in Norway, Sweden et al due to the fact that most of the blades are typically around 3mm (ish) thick and the thinner the steel the less obvious the slight hollow of the grind is. It becomes a little easier to see on the 'Scandi' grind people accept as the currently in-vogue norm on a 4mm or over 'bushcraft' knife - the thicker steel makes it slightly easier to see the nature of the grind. You could also argue that unless you use an abrasive that contrives to remain perfectly flat as you work your edge the slightly-hollow-ground-Scandi will normally end up turning inside out and becoming a slightly-convex-ground Scandi due to the effects of a 'dished' stone.
Most of the Woodlore knives I have seen and handled are, in fact, very slightly hollow ground and not the Scandi grind that is so well associated with it, which is slightly ironic to say the least. Anyone who owns one can simply put the edge of a piece of A4 paper from the top of the bevel to the edge and they will normally see a very slight concave curve or hollow to the grind on most Woodlore knives. Ironic that one of the most salient atributes of this knife is its 'Scandi' grind.
Much also depends on how you use your knife. I don't beast my knives but they see a lot of use because I hunt and fish often and make a lot of longbows. I never leave the edge long enough to require regular work on a stone. Most of my knives can (and are) be kept fighting fit in active service by regular stropping and I only ever go back to stones a few times a year if the edge gets rolled, which would normally be my fault for doing something stupid with it, or if it gets dinged when dropped or something similarly unusual.
Basically, if you use your knife smart and maintain it BEFORE it needs harsh regrinding the regular use of stones can be reduced to occasional at worst, and once the edge is set up properly the strop becomes your best friend. It's very portable too...
True zero ground knives are pretty hard work to make and even harder to maintain for the customer. Most folks end up by introducing their own slight variation accidentally - things tend to work out better if you introduce a deliberately planned and controlled variation that offers a more robust edge that can be easily maintained over the longer term with less time and energy spent in doing so.
I'll get my coat