Sharpening a pocket knife

[daved]

After many years loyal service, my Swiss army knife has become more of a butter-knife and I am looking for some tips on how best to sharpen it.

I have read Stuart's beginners guide to sharpening but this seems geared towards larger blades. The bevel on the SAK is only about 1mm wide so I think it would be extremely difficult to hold this flat against a stone and maintain any sort of consistent angle. I suppose the bevel is technically a secondary bevel as the blade tapers from the spine so I could try sharpening it in to a flat grind. The blades are so thin to start with that I'm not sure there wouldn't be much of it left if I tried this.

I don't neccesarily need a razor edge as it is more likely to be used to carve a baguette than whittling wood. (OK, not very bushcrafty, I know)

Any suggestions? How have others done this?

Thanks
Dave

 

[steven andrews]

Buy a Spyderco Sharpmaker. Your SAK will be razor sharp..and so will every other bladed object that you own!

 

[bloodline]

I bought a little sharpener at a game fair the guy selling them said they were good for everything from shears to penknives I found it ideal for SAKs and pocket knives its saved all mine I found I got too thin an edge when using a stone and rolled the edge on a steel this puts a factory type edge back on.I havnt tried it out on big stuff yet . Info on tool is BLADE-TECH STS NORTH WALES Tel 01492 640 664 let me khow if you get one

 

[Hoodoo]

Buy a Spyderco Sharpmaker. Your SAK will be razor sharp..and so will every other bladed object that you own!

Couldn't agree more. I've been using crock sticks on SAKs every since they first came out. It was quite a revelation to me. And your blade will last a lot longer too. You can go a long time using crock sticks on your SAK before you will have to thin the edge a bit on a stone. Looooonnng time.

 

[stevec]

how about wet and dry on a mouse mat? used that on the little blade of my sak.
sc

 

[daved]

how about wet and dry on a mouse mat? used that on the little blade of my sak.
sc

What technique did you use?

 

[daved]

Buy a Spyderco Sharpmaker. Your SAK will be razor sharp..and so will every other bladed object that you own!

I am sure they are very good but they are a bit pricey (almost £50 on Heinnie Haynes website). For the same money I could probably buy 3 replacement knives (I know, thats not the right attitude but...)

D

 

[mark a.]

I recently bought some kitchen knives from a Japanese knife shop (oooh, there are some lovely blades in there), run by the world's maddest but nicest people. After chatting away about knives, stones etc (one of them also does a sharpening service), they recommended bench stones first and foremost, but their second favourite is a Japanese sharpening device It's basically a ceramic wheel, notched for the right bevel angle, and rotates in water. A guide keeps the knife vertical, and you just run the knife back and forth a few times, and voilá, you have a very sharp blade.

I was very impressed, and amazingly she gave me one free with my knives (I think they're around £20-£30 normally). Unfortunately I don't have a link, but I'll let you know if I find one.

It's great on my knives, and I reckon it would be perfect for my SAK. I must try it, actually, as it could do with a sharpen.

 

[ssj]

I use a Hoodoo hone (yes, they are related). Search the site for additional information. The real beauty of the Hoodoo hone is that an edge is easy to maintain.
Steve

 

[Hoodoo]

I am sure they are very good but they are a bit pricey (almost £50 on Heinnie Haynes website). For the same money I could probably buy 3 replacement knives (I know, thats not the right attitude but...)

D

You don't have to spend to big bucks for a Sharpmaker. Crocksticks work well. Lansky makes a nice set for a reasonable price.

Lansky

Hoodoo hones are good too.

 

[Squidders]

For my little folders, I just use a DC3 or DC4 with a nice erratic style that looks awful but seems to work for me.

I don't think there's a black art to it and if I had one of the preset angled sharpeners, I'd use it too.

 

[steven andrews]

I am sure they are very good but they are a bit pricey (almost £50 on Heinnie Haynes website). For the same money I could probably buy 3 replacement knives (I know, thats not the right attitude but...)

D

A Sharpmaker can be bought for $46.81 from New Graham Knives in the US. Shipping would probably be $9 - so closer to £30 than £50.

 

[Jacknife]

I use a Kitchen Devil on my SAK's and find it gives a very sharp toothy edge.
Costs about £2 in my local Tesco's. Practice on an old knife to get the right technique before you use it on your best knives because if you don't keep the blade straight it will scratch up the blade, don't press too hard either.
I even got good results on my hatchet using this sharpener but it is not easy to explain how best to use it, in fact I nearly tossed it in the bin after scratching up the blade on one of my SAK's when I first got it. Another thing about it is it's nice and portable. Well worth £2 in my view, but DO practice with it first.

 

[Shing]

SAK steel is quite soft, any small say 2 inch long carborundum or Alox stone would work fine

 

[jamesraykenney]

For my little folders, I just use a DC3 or DC4 with a nice erratic style that looks awful but seems to work for me.

I don't think there's a black art to it and if I had one of the preset angled sharpeners, I'd use it too.

You are probabally doing a freehand convex with out even realizing it.

That is how all the old knives were sharpened.

 

[jamesraykenney]

After many years loyal service, my Swiss army knife has become more of a butter-knife and I am looking for some tips on how best to sharpen it.

I have read Stuart's beginners guide to sharpening but this seems geared towards larger blades. The bevel on the SAK is only about 1mm wide so I think it would be extremely difficult to hold this flat against a stone and maintain any sort of consistent angle. I suppose the bevel is technically a secondary bevel as the blade tapers from the spine so I could try sharpening it in to a flat grind. The blades are so thin to start with that I'm not sure there wouldn't be much of it left if I tried this.

I don't neccesarily need a razor edge as it is more likely to be used to carve a baguette than whittling wood. (OK, not very bushcrafty, I know)

Any suggestions? How have others done this?

Thanks
Dave

Try THIS site...
It will give you an edge that is a VERY good slicer, but also one that will LAST.
And after you do the initial sharpening, you can maintain the edge with just some leather with compound on it, and you will not wear away the edge every time you have to sharpen it.

P.S. I have a friend here at work, that used to bring his SAK(Swiss Army Knife) to me every few days to put an edge on it...
I finally asked his permission to convex it, and after I finished, I have not had to resharpen it for WEEKS!!!

Just be careful that you do not lower the angle too much... The idea with a convex, is that you can use a much GREATER final angle, without sacrificing cutting ability...Most of the resistance to cutting comes from the geometry right behind the edge... Look at wire cheese cutters...They have NO edge but slice right through cheese, but a sharp knife has a LOT more drag while slicing through. I usually try for an edge that will shave, but NOT one that will 'pop' hairs...That will USUALLY be best for most general purpose tasks...

 

[manofthewoods]

Having just purchased a sharpmaker 'spyderco' i can say without doubt it's the best purchase i have made in a long while. A bit pricey 'maybe' but everything i sharpen is literally 'shaving sharp' even mt SAK 'farmer. And with the video that comes with it, you can't go far wrong.

 

[addyb]

Yeah, that site is GOLD.

I just convex-ed my SAK, and OH MY GOD...WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN ALL MY LIFE?

Translation: I am very satisfied with the edge on my SAK. It is sharp, but not too sharp, and I truly believe that the edge will not roll very much.

Yep. Wet/Dry paper and a mousepad does the trick!