Papua New Guinea native firemaking with string

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Galemys

Settler
Dec 13, 2004
730
42
53
Zaandam, the Netherlands
BOD said:
I have tried the rattan on bamboo method but cannot claim any expertise. The diameter of the rattan is important. About 0.75 cm seems to be right for success. The age and dryness are a factor I think.

Did you succeed?
Do you use a piece of bamboo just as those that are used with the bamboo fire saw (i.e. a length of bamboo cut in half with a transverse cut)?

I tried the split limewood again tonight with the string now doubled twice but still had no luck. I should be better prepared next time I try, I was trying it out in the dark and my split piece of limewood was shifting all the time so I had to pause and reposition a few times. In the end I got good smoke till the rope broke. Examination in the light showed that it had produced good dark brown powder, something I hadn´t seen up till now.

Tom
 

BOD

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Galemys said:
Did you succeed?
Do you use a piece of bamboo just as those that are used with the bamboo fire saw (i.e. a length of bamboo cut in half with a transverse cut)?

...Tom

Yes it works but the lengthswise cut (Not the transverse)is less than half the circumference. The reason, i think, is that only friction you want is that around the hole - anywhere else just wears out the rattan without contributing to the ember.

Rattan breaking is always going to be aproblem. Will try with the temiang when dry
 

BOD

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Here are some photos of the 'elusive' bulu temiang.

DSCN2031.jpg


DSCN2030.jpg


Please forgive the quality of the photos. They were taken in pouring rain. My trip coincided with the very heavy rains and floods in South East Asia. I am surprised the camera did as well as it did.

I include some photos of the making of rattan strips. In this case they are being made for a basket but the techinque for making a thong is probably similar. I forget this lady's name but she is so quick in stripping the rattan. Its done in seconds and only the hard outer surface remains which is very flexible. You can see the difference in her work and mine. My strip is more liable to break.

DSCN2023.jpg


DSCN2021.jpg


DSCN2022.jpg
 

BOD

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
redcollective said:
.
Malay Peninsula
Employed a billet of wood again, "split ... at one end so as to form a cleft of about 6 inches. In this he inserted a small stick, which formed a peg separating the two halves and standing above the surface of the billet". Tinder 'palm scurf' [which I read as palm fibre?] was stuffed into the cleft between the peg and the thong at the base of the split. The thong is rattan, with sticks fasted at each end.

.

It is not palm fibre but a finer than cotton wool like material scraped from between the outer and inner layers of the apiang palm
 

BOD

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Galemys said:
I found this in an article called:

On Fire-Making in North Borneo
Sydney B. J. Skertchly
The Journal of the Anthropological Institute of Great Britain and Ireland, Vol. 19, 1890 (1890), pp. 445-452

"V- Fire from Bamboo and pottery
Pandeka, who is most skilful as a firemaker, often amused me by striking fire with a bit of broken crockery on a bamboo. He holds a long bamboo nearly upright, and taking a little of the scraped inside of bamboo in the hollow of his hand, and the crock between his finger and thumb, he strikes a spark from the siliceous coating of the bamboo by one free stroke of the arm. It requires a good hard, seasoned bamboo to work well."

The fire-syringe (fire piston), fire drill and fire saw are also depicted and described in a more detailed way. Skertchly also includes the english, dyak and malay names for the different parts of the fire piston and the tinder that was used by the locals for the fire piston, the "covering of the stem of a low palm, called by the Dyaks Apiang".

Tom

The apiang is held on top of the crockery/flint.

The tinder comes from inner layers of the stem around. the heart

Incidentally, this palm does not die as it has radial shoots each with a heart like a pandanus
 

BOD

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
The story continues...

I arrived during harvest time and many people were busy gathering in the rice crop or engaged in related matters and were too busy or too tired to humour my request for a lesson in an old way of making fire

These are subsistence farmers and it was not a good year as strong monsoon winds and storms had flattened parts of the fields so it was not my part to be pushy.

Fortunately, after spending the first day learning how to harvest rice, I spoke to an old man in his 70’s named Salang whom I knew. He was not busy with rice harvesting and he promised me a lesson the following morning.

I had come just to photograph the fire starting but the quest turned into a complete tutorial on this form of fire making. I’m setting it out in some detail for the record since the 19th Century accounts are brief and sometimes misleading.

Since I had collected and dried the temiang bamboo on a previous visit, we now started by collecting the tinder.

This meant locating an apiang palm, mentioned in Skertchly as growing only “on the banks of mountain streams far into the interior.” In our case, we were about 60km from the coast close to a large stream in a transition zone between low hills and swamp.

[Apiang palm and Salang]
T2608.jpg
[/IMG]
The tinder is not, as Skertchly says, from the external covering of the stem but from intermediate layers between the outer layers and the inner pith. This is surprising since his description of the tinder is quite accurate.

Incidentally, his translation of ‘tinder’ as umbut is not correct as umbut simply means the palm pith or heart of palm. Salang never refered to the tinder fluff as umbut but as lulut (refered to by Skertchly as the Malay word for tinder) which he obtained from umbut apiang (apiang palm heart).

I have only a very small Dyak vocabulary and spoke to Salang in standard Malay. He has practically no English and a limited and heavily accented Borneo Malay but I am sure on this point.

[ cutting off the outer layers]
T2620.jpg
[/IMG]
Getting the lulut is quick if you know what you are doing. Note the way he holds the parang

[“a brown flocculent mass, quite soft. This is scraped off and forms the best tinder.” Skertchly]
T2626.jpg
[/IMG]

[heart of palm umbut]


We later brought the heart to a hut used when the Dayaks are working the fields so they do not have to walk all the way back to the long house.

The scraped lulut was then collected.
T2633.jpg
[/IMG]

I had brought my collecting bag, Salang improvised. Aesthetically, it was no contest.

[bag vs. leaf]

T2636.jpg
[/IMG]

The ethno-pyrology literature makes no mention of any additive to the apiang lulut but Salang said that we had to add something. He brought me to a plant which I know by sight but not name.

[plant]

T2642.jpg
[/IMG]

The leaves of this plant can grow to 10 metres and are shaped like a V with wings in the way a child might draw a distant bird in flight. Some call it nature’s corrugated iron and it is indeed used as shelter material as this picture shows

[corrugated roof]
T2588.jpg
[/IMG]

We collected some very dry old roof mats from the rice hut and brought it back to the longhouse. Salang washed it to remove dirt and impurities.

We then dried the lulut and leaves which is almost as exciting as watching grass grow.

When dry the leaves were burnt on a drum lid till they almost turned to ash at which time they were covered. I don’t know why this was done. Initially, when I heard the word ‘tin’, I thought they would make some kind of char fibre but this was almost entirely ash, char dust at best if there is such a thing (Any suggestions why they do this?)

[ burning leaves]
T2669.jpg
[/IMG]

[ash]

T2675.jpg
[/IMG]
The lulut and the ash were then mixed taking care not to let any dirt etc on to it.

A piece of fluffed up tinder is then placed on top of a piece of stone / crockery with the thumb on top in the conventional way and the temiang section is struck hard with a glancing blow. If lucky a small spark or two is produced. As Balfour said it is a method requiring great skill and in a very demanding environment at that.

[striking bamboo]
T2679.jpg
[/IMG]

The tinder was not dry enough as it had barely 2 hours of direct sunlight to dry since being scraped off the inner stem. The crockery was also unsuitable being too modern though it threw off feeble sparks. We tried some robust ferrocium sparks to test the tinder. A very tiny part ignited but even hand fanning only produced more smoke.

[ smouldering tinder]

T2681.jpg
[/IMG]

When I return to Borneo, we’ll do it again with drier tinder.


Some the Dutch bushies were experimenting last weekend with the bamboo I sent them with I hear better results.
 

Galemys

Settler
Dec 13, 2004
730
42
53
Zaandam, the Netherlands
Amazing to see BOD's pictures, they are very very much appreciated.

BOD :You_Rock_ had kindly sent me some of the Temiang bamboo so at the Dutch bushcraft meeting last weekend we had a chance to try it out. Sadly, I don't think there were pictures made while we were at it.

We did not succeed in creating fire with the temiang bamboo but it was very exciting to work with!

The temiang gave orange sparks easy but they tend to stick very close to the flint, or actually at the point of contact between flint and bamboo. The sparks do not travel far or fly like sparks from a flint & steel combination so they are difficult to project onto tinder. It could be that my tinder (charcloth) was too coarse or too damp as we tried it in the evening. It is also not easy to keep the charcloth in one piece when you hold it on the striking piece of flint. We tried it in several ways;
•the bamboo held steady & then struck with the flint (tinder below the flint)
•the flint held steady (charcloth on top) & then struck with the bamboo
•a glancing strike (as in the flint & steel method)
•a more scraping movement along the bamboo
(I didn’t try the method Skertchley mentioned as I think the tinder in the cup of the handpalm will be out of reach from the sparks, but then again, maybe I just have to strike harder).

I handed out some pieces of the temiang to some other Dutch bushcrafters so they can also experiment with it and they will report back to me if they get a result.

The difference between the temiang and the 'normal' bamboo pieces I used for my bamboo fire saw workshop was astonishing, with the latter the sole sparks are an occassional event while the temiang gives far more sparks, everytime it is struck.

I got some real prepared Fomes fomentarius-amadou from someone at the meeting so I can try that out for tinder as well. Maybe I should fold a piece around the sharp end of the flint so it is as close as it can get to the sparks, it is a method that works to set fire to a piece of paper with a ferrocium rod (the paper folded around the scraper).

I think it is just a matter of time (and of honing my technique).

A very excited Tom, eager to experiment further.
 

Galemys

Settler
Dec 13, 2004
730
42
53
Zaandam, the Netherlands
rich59 said:
To clarify - what precisely is the method? Is it crockery struck on bamboo to give a spark?

It is a length of special bamboo, struck with a piece of flint or crockery (or even another piece of bamboo according to some sources) to produce sparks.
That's the easy bit. Getting the sparks on to tinder to produce an ember is the hard part as they are a dull orange and hard to project.

Normal bamboo can give sparks when hit with a piece of flint but the temiang -bamboo is much better at producing sparks, presumably because of a higher silica-content.

Tom
 

BOD

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Galemys said:
Schizostachyum jaculans Holttum (PROSEA)
MALAY : Buloh kasap, Buloh sumpitan, Buloh temiang.
Photograph at BambooDownUnder, Australia.

Tom

I took a few days off after coming back from Broneo and went to the highlands in Malaysia with the family.

I spoke to a man and asked him what his blowpipe was made out of and he replied buloh Kasap.

I saw bamboo that looked like temiang but had not brought a parang so could not bring them back to compare with the Borneo specimens.
 

Galemys

Settler
Dec 13, 2004
730
42
53
Zaandam, the Netherlands
Hi all,
I' still have had no luck in creating fire with this method but I have made a very short video clip (8 seconds) just to show that the bamboo gives sparks when struck with a piece of flint.
The problem is that I don't know how to make it visible for all of you so if someone who is a little less computer illiterate than me knows how to do this, please mail me at t.lourens*sanquin.nl (replace * with @) and I 'll mail you the videofile (6.5 MB) and some pictures.

Tom
 

rich59

Maker
Aug 28, 2005
2,217
25
65
London
Galemys,

First, open a "photobucket" account (free) at http://photobucket.com/ . Then follow directions to upload it to there. Once uploaded you can enter a link to it in your message.

So start by setting up with photobucket. If you get stuck then just ask.
 

gregorach

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Sep 15, 2005
3,723
28
51
Edinburgh
Yep, I can see it!

That's some pretty impressive looking sparks for a bit of bamboo! Thanks for your contributions to this fascinating thread. :)
 

rich59

Maker
Aug 28, 2005
2,217
25
65
London
They certainly look very short lived them there sparks!


I have got sparks that look a bit like that from flint on flint. Have you tried that? How does it compare? Which has the better sparks?
 

Galemys

Settler
Dec 13, 2004
730
42
53
Zaandam, the Netherlands
rich59 said:
They certainly look very short lived them there sparks!

I have got sparks that look a bit like that from flint on flint. Have you tried that? How does it compare? Which has the better sparks?

Hi Rich,

I would say that the bamboo sparks look if they last just a tiny bit longer but that may be because you can use a longer stretch for the strike. So I guess what I actually see is a row of sparks that may be just as short lived as the ones from flint on flint. They are also hard to see in broad daylight.
Occassionally some sparks fly longer and further but I still haven´t had any luck catching them on tinder.

I have tried charcloth but it is too fragile to use as the striking part in combination with the flint, it just flies off in tiny pieces after one strike. I find it harder to get sparks when I use the bamboo as the moving part. I also tried amadou (prepared Fomes fomentarius), although it is a bit sturdier than the charcloth I still could not get it to light. Today I tried a slice of cramp ball fungus, held next to the edge of the flint when striking the bamboo but it would not catch any spark.

I´m gonna try honing my sparking technique with bamboo as the striking part against the steady held flint & tinder. This should be a more gentle method for the tinder so I can try the charcloth again.

Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.

It´s frustrating to see so many sparks at each strike and not be able to use them!
I have deep respect for the indigenous people that used this method and even more for the person who invented this firestarting method long ago, trying it out is a humbling experience. :notworthy

Maybe Stuart or Woody can get some temiang bamboo to the next bushmoot for others in England to try? There is always the slight possibility that it is just me who is crap at catching the bamboo-sparks...although the other Dutchmen that I handed some temiang out to also have not reported any success yet. Let´s hope it is not a Dutch thing... :eek:

Tom
 

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