Glue for knife making

[knifeman]

Hi all,
I'm re handling a couple of Moras and wondering what glue to use for glueing the tang in to the handle? (The handle is wood) I re handled one a while ago and can't remember for the life of me what the glue was called
Thanks
ATB George


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[Totumpole]

Araldite, or any form of epoxy resin should do you just fine.

 

[Robson Valley]

I've been using JB Qwik-Weld 2-part epoxy. It's a very dark gray when mixed and there isn't much open time for adjustments.
Surface-hafting a dozen+ blades as Pacific Northwest style crooked carving knives, I am impressed.
Left overnight, the squeeze-out is easy to carve off.
I'm not easy on those and nothing has so much as wiggled in the last few years.

 

[knifeman]

I've been using JB Qwik-Weld 2-part epoxy. It's a very dark gray when mixed and there isn't much open time for adjustments.
Surface-hafting a dozen+ blades as Pacific Northwest style crooked carving knives, I am impressed.
Left overnight, the squeeze-out is easy to carve off.
I'm not easy on those and nothing has so much as wiggled in the last few years.

Thanks, I'll nip out to B&Q tomorrow!

 

[hog]

Dont forget the photos now.

 

[knifeman]

Dont forget the photos now.

Don't worry I won't, I haven't got round to doing the mora so I just made a little neck knife out of and old butchers knife, it's not particularly attractive but it will work for tinder prep/ striking a ferro rod.

 

[Robson Valley]

Here are a few of the most common sweeps.

 

[SoldierPalmer]

Any one have any experience with Gorilla wood glue? I have used it my self and it seems fine but I don't know how affective it is for the long term.

 

[Mesquite]

Personally I don't use a 5 minute quick set glue for fixing a handle.

A slower setting glue means you're not rushed at getting all the bits put together and can get everything precisely lined up and clamped securely before the glue starts to harden.

 

[Tomteifi]

Mornin'

From my experience of GWG I have used it for a few years now on woods of all types and never had a failure with it of any sort but, I have not used it on wood/metal. The strongest one of that make I've used is the waterproof wood glue and it does what it says but, all GWG is meant for material that is porous as in wood. The only way I would see that you could increase the mechanical advantage to get it to grip metal, would be to make the metal imitate something similar to porosity by perhaps denting, drilling, marking, punching or cutting out the tang in places which are then filled with glue when building. Whatever you use, you are only going to get a maximum strength of adhesion on the porous side i.e. the wood. I wouldn't use the creamy, water based GWG for obvious reasons but the waterproof one is solvent based and would be stronger. I'd say, its worth a go if you've got some already but, its not cheap. Find it for under a tenner and its a bargain. There are as you probably know many epoxies that will do as good a job for less dosh. Hope that helps SP.

cheers

Tom.

 

[Macaroon]

Personally I don't use a 5 minute quick set glue for fixing a handle.

A slower setting glue means you're not rushed at getting all the bits put together and can get everything precisely lined up and clamped securely before the glue starts to harden.

+1 to that; animportant consideration.

 

[SoldierPalmer]

Mornin'

From my experience of GWG I have used it for a few years now on woods of all types and never had a failure with it of any sort but, I have not used it on wood/metal. The strongest one of that make I've used is the waterproof wood glue and it does what it says but, all GWG is meant for material that is porous as in wood. The only way I would see that you could increase the mechanical advantage to get it to grip metal, would be to make the metal imitate something similar to porosity by perhaps denting, drilling, marking, punching or cutting out the tang in places which are then filled with glue when building. Whatever you use, you are only going to get a maximum strength of adhesion on the porous side i.e. the wood. I wouldn't use the creamy, water based GWG for obvious reasons but the waterproof one is solvent based and would be stronger. I'd say, its worth a go if you've got some already but, its not cheap. Find it for under a tenner and its a bargain. There are as you probably know many epoxies that will do as good a job for less dosh. Hope that helps SP.

cheers

Tom.

Thanks for the insight Tom I had some laying around think it was about £5 I paid for it. So far it seems to be holding well, the knife is used daily mainly for carving and nothing has moved as of yet though I have not battoned anything with it and don't intend too. I'll let you know if it works it's way loose though.

 

[Damascus]

+2 on that, I tried the quick areldite a few years back, great does the job but you have to be quick, gone back to the standard long setting time, gives you time to play around with it and get it just right.

 

[mrcharly]

I think GWC is a polyeurothane glue and expands slightly. It is also moisture curing so an advantage if you can't ensure a perfectly dry environment.

the expansion can cause cracks in some circumstances.

Araldite is pretty easy to work with. Needs warmth to cure well.

 

[bluey1610]

Hubby says to use epoxy resin


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[Trencakey]

Devcon 2 ton epoxy.

 

[Justa1098]

Either devcon 2ton epoxy or gflex

 

[knifeman]

Thanks for the advice! I ended up using gorilla epoxy because that's all B&Q had. But as far as I can see its done a great job

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[BogdanS]

As a general rule it has to be epoxy and no other type; it fits best the needs a knife handle bonding require like strength of bond, waterproof, elasticity and usually transparency (not very important but useful in order to blend with the color of the wood).
For uncompromised strength if it is possible use both mechanical and chemical bonding (rivets/epoxy); I use an industrial type epoxy (Epiphen). Of course that any other epoxy found in DIY stores will do the job for your needs

All the best,
Bogdan

 

[Tomteifi]

Hi

It wouldn't do any harm at all to drill through that handle in 2 places and retro fit rivets, glued and spread-belt and braces if you like but, it will never give way and cut you as it could now. Just a thought. Nice little jobby BTW.

Tom.