The history of the Bowler hat at Holkham
There are many theories as to why Holkham’s gamekeepers first came to
wear ‘Bowler’ or ‘Coke’ hats, as they were commonly known in Norfolk.
The original story is that in August 1849, William Coke, a nephew of the first
Earl of Leicester of the second creation, commissioned his hatter James Lock,
to design a close-fitting, low crowned hat.
William stressed that the hat must be extra strong; in order to protect his
gamekeepers’ heads from low hanging branches, while out horse riding. It
was clear that the tall top-hats often worn by the keepers, were easily
knocked off and damaged; and a completely new style was called for. It is
believed that William also hoped the new hat would protect his keepers from
attacks by poachers.
A prototype of the hat was duly made and when William visited Locks to
inspect the design, he was presented with a very hard hat with a round, low
crown and small brim, covered in a rough finished felt.
As the story goes, William then took the hat outside on to the pavement and
promptly jumped up and down on it to determine its durability. Happily, the hat
withstood the test and in accordance with Locks’ usual practice, was called
the ‘Coke’ hat, after the customer for whom it was made. This is probably why
the hat soon became known as the ‘Billy Coke’ or ‘Billycock’ hat in Norfolk.
In later years, the hat was more generally known as the Bowler, after the
Bowler Brothers, who went on to manufacture it. Although very fashionable in
shooting parties of the time, the hat was also adopted by city stockbrokers
and barristers and soon became uniform headwear. Nowadays, judges and
officials at equestrian shows commonly wear Bowler hats.
However, recent research has cast some doubt over this story. It is now
believed that it was Edward Coke, younger brother of the second Earl of
Leicester, who actually ordered the hat.
Whatever the hat’s true origins, there is no doubt that Holkham’s present
eight-strong keepering team wear the ‘Coke’ hat with as much pride today, as
