"Bruiser Knife"

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Now the sort of lines I really like is the old Puma White Hunter

DSCN0657.JPG


The problem with this is I have a suspicion its hollow ground (I know the Puma Bowies were). A lot of them came part serrated too which is a non-starter for the purpose

I have one of these - lovely knife.

To be honest it's only been out once and had no use to speak of.

I had wanted a White Hunter since I was a kid and saw once that a friend of my Dad had.

Pictures for your pleasure ;)

Phil.

puma_1.jpg



puma_2.jpg




puma_3.jpg




puma_4.jpg




puma_5.jpg
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
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It does have lovely lines Phil! Just what is the grind up close? It looks hollow but its hard to tell

Red
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
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Too many Phils :D

I used to drink in a pub with four Richards. You never, ever shouted "want a pint Richard"? :D

Red
 

falcon

Full Member
Aug 27, 2004
1,211
33
Shropshire
The Leukus are definitely a no (as is the Mick Spain). Great knives but I want a way to stop my hand slipping down onto the blade under pressure.
Red
I respect your view as ever Red but this interests me. From time to time I use a 9" Leuku and I'm awaiting oa 7"one of these, of which I "played " with a very good mate's at the WG....
http://bearclawsbushcraft.blogspot.com/
...the chopping action practiced by the Sami people involves use of the butt plate as a kind of swivel which certainly keeps the fingers away fron the cutting edge...and I've witnessed a couple of friends hold a kind of batoning "competition" ..(leuku vs bowie) with a substantial piece of oak which posed no threat whatsoever even without a fingerguard. Obvoiusly your choice...but the leuku is a perfectly safe tool using the correct techiques. I hope you get what you want and good luck with your choice..:)
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
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I was thinking more of a drilling or boring action occasioning the slip Falcon. As you say, its almost certainly me being overcautious but I have found I like more of an "anatomical" grip than a barrel or cylinder shape. Even on the Moras I like the newer clunky green handles over the wooden ones for that very reason. I'm not really after a big "guard" as in a fighting knife - just a sure grip and some small protrusion in front of the index finger.

I reckon if it makes me more confident in a tough use camp knife it must be right (for me)

Red
 

Tengu

Full Member
Jan 10, 2006
12,811
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Wiltshire
I have a big Tramontia knife

ill take pics tommorrow

it cost me under a tenner but that was some years back...
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
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I have been working loads with RWL34... I'm getting great results :)

http://michaelwest.dk/knive/rwl34-datasheet.pdf

Incredible stuff ;)

Alt.1 Ferritic annealing is performed at 770 C (1420 F). Annealing time 3 hours at temperature.Hardness will be about 300 HV. Protective atmosphere or packing in cast iron mills can beused to avoid decarburization.

Aaah I see

err no actually I don't :eek:

What I do know is if you tell me its less prone to rust and chip than O1 and is suitable for a big rough tough knife thats going to be batoned, chopped with and once in a while do duty as a pry bar, I'll believe you cos you've never let me doen :cool:

Red
 

stuart m

Nomad
May 18, 2006
434
18
54
Sheffield
www.stuartmitchellknives.com
Alt.1 Ferritic annealing is performed at 770 C (1420 F). Annealing time 3 hours at temperature.Hardness will be about 300 HV. Protective atmosphere or packing in cast iron mills can beused to avoid decarburization.

Aaah I see

err no actually I don't :eek:

:lmao:

I agree 100% mate... I'm a knife maker myself, not a metallurgist. All that makes very little (none in fact) sense to me either... What I do know though is the capabilites of the end product, I like it :)

What I do know is if you tell me its less prone to rust and chip than O1 and is suitable for a big rough tough knife thats going to be batoned, chopped with and once in a while do duty as a pry bar, I'll believe you cos you've never let me doen

I also have some A2... The more I think about "The Bruiser" the more I think that is the way to go. Similar to D2 but with better wear resistance etc etc etc. For your "less prone to rust and chip than O1 and is suitable for a big rough tough knife thats going to be batoned, chopped with and once in a while do duty as a pry bar" knife, I think A2 steel is the way to go :)

What sizes do you have in mind Red?
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
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I'm thinking 6" blade stu - could go up to 7". Much bigger than that and I think the "why not carry an axe" argument kicks in. Much less and I mught as well use the PFK or its too small to baton etc.

I know thats not willdly precise but a 6" cutting edge is in my mind

Red
 

stuart m

Nomad
May 18, 2006
434
18
54
Sheffield
www.stuartmitchellknives.com
I'm thinking 6" blade stu - could go up to 7". Much bigger than that and I think the "why not carry an axe" argument kicks in. Much less and I mught as well use the PFK or its too small to baton etc.

I know thats not willdly precise but a 6" cutting edge is in my mind

Red
OK... And of all that has been suggested through the thread, has any one knife, or aspects of any knife, stood out?
 

Shinken

Native
Nov 4, 2005
1,317
3
43
cambs
I agree with the A2, why not get a desert ironwood handle with engraved nickel bolster and engraved nickel pins to match the pfk:D
 

Shinken

Native
Nov 4, 2005
1,317
3
43
cambs
Morning mate!

i do too much talking about steel, i guess being at work on a sat morning does that to you.

Have the day of monday so will post stuff to you then (havent gotten around to it yet:rolleyes: )

For all those who dont know what i am talking about, Stu is going to make me a custom knife. whooooowhooooooow kid in a sweet shop:red: :red: :headbang:
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
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Knives I like....Hmmm more "aspects of" I suspect.

If we took Phil562s knife I really like the handle shape. It gives the security of grip I'd be looking for. I would like more of a plam swell on the grip though - so that the profile view looked like the Rat 7 that Terry and Weaver suggested. I would even go for a little more bottom guard if possible - not as much as the Puma but a little longer than the A1 has.

Now blade wise, I think a convex bevel similar to the Bark River or Fallkniven A2 / A1 (although more Bark River convex than Fallkniven if you know what I mean). For a point it needs to drop a touch more than that A1 - more like the Socom but with a false top edge to aid boring.

Handle materials are up in the air right now. Must have a lanyard hole of course....suggestions?

Sheath...hmm not a pouch sheath - something with a blade guard and snap strap I think. Plain and functional but very secure......again - suggestions?

Red
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
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Ash,

You wont regret it! Stu really is a master of his craft - I count myself very lucky to have one of his custom creations!

michiel - this one is just a conversation right now.....but who knows? It might happen :)

Red
 

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