Bark River

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Hoodoo

Full Member
Nov 17, 2003
5,302
13
Michigan, USA
JakeR said:
Would you recomend i get the mini canadian as oppose to the the marble?

I don't want to shock bigjack here but I only have one Bark River so I can't advise too much on that score. :wink: I'm going to a knife show this weekend so that may change. :) If you like full tangs though, I would go with Bark River. But to be honest, if I was picking something to go with the Woodlore for bushcraft use, I would think in terms of a folding knife like a Swiss Army or maybe a Leatherman Pulse. A good sturdy stockman ain't nothing to sneeze at either. Small, razor sharp blades can be handy at times. Queen makes some good ones and the old Case Classics are highly regarded. Personally I think the SAK Camper is a great sidekick to the Woodlore. It's got a nice little saw too for cutting saplings and notching twigs. Big, multiblade folders usually give you plenty of flat area to push against for heavy cutting.

Marbles makes a minicaper fixed blade (yes, I have one, :-D ) but personally I don't find the grip all that secure for hard use. It is a full tang though. I think John Greco might be selling the same exact knife. I'm not even sure who makes it anymore.
 
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JakeR

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 18, 2004
2,288
4
37
Cardiff
I don't want to shock bigjack here but I only have one Bark River so I can't advise too much on that score

Hoodoo, youve let yourself down :wink: :lol: .
I'm not much for folders. I have a leatherman, but never use the blade. The only folder i use for cutting is the opinel.
General...where did you purchase your highland from?

Cheers,

Jake
 

Keith_Beef

Native
Sep 9, 2003
1,366
268
55
Yvelines, north-west of Paris, France.
Hoodoo said:
Jake Rollnick said:
Has anyone uses knives made by Marbles?

I have a few. :)
..snipped images..

Wow, that's a fair few!

Some of those look similar to "scout knives" made in Sheffield.

A guy called Andy over on BB posted a message about them:
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?p=48439#post48439

This one, by Reg Cooper:
images.php

is quoted at £25.50 plus P&P.

No mention of what the steel is, but maybe you could find out from somewhere...

Keith.
 

Hoodoo

Full Member
Nov 17, 2003
5,302
13
Michigan, USA
Keith, that's a sweet looking blade. I'm guessing that the basic scout knife design originated with Marbles. Also, Marbles made knives for lots of different companies. I know Marbles originated the Woodcraft design which is something of a variation of the Nessmuk design.

The price on that knife looks like a steal!
 

JakeR

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 18, 2004
2,288
4
37
Cardiff
The wait is too much...and i only have to wait 6 days. Off camping this weekend. Back monday. I had great difficulty with sharpening my knife earlier. Im hoping my diamond sharpener thats in the post will sort out all my sharpening troubles!

With the convex grind on the highland, what is the method of sharpening it? I know how with a single bevel, but not with anything else!

Cheers,

Jake
 

Hoodoo

Full Member
Nov 17, 2003
5,302
13
Michigan, USA
Jake, sandpaper backed by a mousepad allows you to maintain the convex grind when sharpening. If just using a stone, I like to use a hard arkansas and a circular motion, much like you might hone an axe.
 

JakeR

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 18, 2004
2,288
4
37
Cardiff
Would i just make an assortment of wet'n'dry grits? Is a convex edge effective?

Cheers,

Jake
 

sargey

Mod
Mod
Member of Bushcraft UK Academy
Sep 11, 2003
2,695
8
cheltenham, glos
Would i just make an assortment of wet'n'dry grits? Is a convex edge effective?

yes and yes. just strop the knife along the wet'n'dry with the edge trailing, like you were spreading butter a long slice of baguette. hold the blade flat without too much pressure on the edge, you don't want to round it off completely.

as long as you don't let the knife get too roughed up, you shouldn't need anything more than the finer grits.

for a really polished edge you can move onto a bit of chrome polish on the inside of a bit of cornflake box. Tcut scratch remover paste will do, but it's not quite as quick as the autosol.

a convex edge like the highland works very well both as a woodworking knife, and a pretty good slicer as well (much better than a nasty woodlore thingy) :shock: :wink: :-D

cheers, and.
 

Adi007

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Sep 3, 2003
4,080
0
sargey said:
(much better than a nasty woodlore thingy) :shock: :wink: :-D

My nasty Woodlore thingy heard that! :-D
You're right though ... the scandi grinds aren't the best for slicing ... but I still think it is unbeatable for wood!
 

JakeR

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 18, 2004
2,288
4
37
Cardiff
My nasty woodlore thingy heard it as well! Thanks for the tip. Is it difficult to sharpen a convex on a bench diamond stone?

Also....i have heard that i may have to pay *a lot* of fees when my highland arrives in this country, is this true of all items bought from america or is it just stories? When i read about the puukko review it sounded like it just arrived, no more fees. I did pay $25 for the p&p. help!?

Cheers,

Jake
 

Hoodoo

Full Member
Nov 17, 2003
5,302
13
Michigan, USA
Jake Rollnick said:
My nasty woodlore thingy heard it as well! Thanks for the tip. Is it difficult to sharpen a convex on a bench diamond stone?

I wouldn't recommend it. You would be trying to sharpen a rounded surface on a flat stone and that takes a bit of experience. And if I were to use diamond stones, they would be very fine or well worn. You are much bettter off sticking to the mousepad and sandpaper imo. If you want to use a stone for touch up, I would recommend a HARD arkansas stone. It does quite well.

I have to say that people have been sharpening convex edges on flat stones for eons. I've been to several Scagel Knife Hammer In's and none of the guys there that I talked to use sandpaper and mouse pad on their convex ground Scagels. For touch up, they use a hard arkansas. For profiling, they use a slack belt grinder or a buffer laden with grinding compound.
 

JakeR

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 18, 2004
2,288
4
37
Cardiff
Cheers hoodoo,

I'll get an arkansas stone. Do you use them like waterstone? Are they cermaic?

Cheers,

Jake
 

Adi007

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Sep 3, 2003
4,080
0
Jake Rollnick said:
I'll get an arkansas stone. Do you use them like waterstone? Are they cermaic?

No, they're not ceramic, they're a natural stone, nowhere near as hard as a ceramic stone ... but there's no arguing with tradition!
 

Adi007

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Sep 3, 2003
4,080
0
Jake Rollnick said:
Do they work well on single bevels?

Cheers,

Jake

Yeah, they're great for the scandi type grind that you have on the Woodlore ... however, the main reason that I prefer ceramic is that slowly, over time, you wear the stone out of flat and you have to dress the stone to regain the flatness - with ceramic, no such problems!

There's nothing I could do with a natural stone that I can't do with ceramic though. In fact, ceramic needs less care and attention than a natural stone.
 

JakeR

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 18, 2004
2,288
4
37
Cardiff
Is it a stone cut from the ground? Or is a mixture of natural stones.

What is duty tax in this country...i was told i am going to pay it when my highland arrives, if it costed me about $40...what will the charge be? :-x

Cheers,

Jake
 

Adi007

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Sep 3, 2003
4,080
0
JakeR said:
Is it a stone cut from the ground? Or is a mixture of natural stones.

What is duty tax in this country...i was told i am going to pay it when my highland arrives, if it costed me about $40...what will the charge be? :-x

Cheers,

Jake

They look like they are just mined out of the ground and dressed ... some oilstones look real pretty!

That's just over the £18 threshold ... so there is an import duty on knives of around 8% + the VAT 17.5% ... plus a handling fee. It's close though and you might be lucky!
 
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