Wood working

[Seagull]

Hi again, all.

I,m presently trying to work a bit of Spanish Olivewood and finding it hard going.

Have gone through a whole packet of power-tool mini-sandersand blunted all my cutting hand tools.

Ive never tried this wood before, working mostly in Yew, but this stuff is completely hostile.

I suppose I will just have to take my time, or go back to Yew.

Apart from the old Dremel, I do not have any other type of power tool.

Would be glad to know from anyone who has successfully worked this material

Seagull

 

[Shing]

I used olive wood a few years ago, don't recall it being particularly difficult to work, not too hard. Some woods contain silica particles that can dull cutting edges quickly but olive wood is not one of them. It can carrode steel if left in contact with it for some time.

 

[bikething]

.... It can carrode steel if left in contact with it for some time....

not the best thing for a knife handle then? (unless it's lined, of course)

Steve

 

[Seagull]

No kiddin, guys.

I,m glad that Shing posted up on this one, at least he,s had some success with it, but I must,ve got a a real hard lump of material here.

I sharpened up again and started whittling,( the Dremel just kept blowing discs), and its just the same as before.

And set about it again, with shaving- sharp skews and scalps, but all I get, is micro-thin, short shavings.

When the blisters get better I.ll let you all know how things went..

Ceeg

 

[Shing]

Does the wood have a lot of burls and wild grain in it? Thats the only reason I can think of if its hard to cut.

 

[C_Claycomb]

Dare I ask what it is that you are trying to carve? I am trying to think what you could do, unsuccessfully with both a Dremel, and chisels.

Have you tried files, rasps and rifflers? Also, how do you sharpen your cutting tools? Adding a steeper, secondary micro bevel might stop them blunting so fast. That is a trick that works on planes when used on hard woods.

I have used rasps, files and cutting tools on box and ebony and the only bits of olive wood I have handled weren't as hard as the box.
Box wood with rasps and gouge.

 

[Seagull]

My thanks to C.C. and Shing for returning on this one.

Shing, yup, it was a lump with lots of wild colours and no discernable grain directon.

C.C., yup I did try files and rasps and its clear that I need to replace them after all these years.

As far as the Dremel use, the sanding cylinders were just gumming up in double time and then just dramatically unwrapping with whipcrack sound effects.
Looking back, I rather think that I had a weak or faulty packet.

Doubtless you hit the right note with your comment on changing the final bevel , its what I used to do previously, but I,d worked Yew with just a single bevel, for donks, with no probs.
I shouldve have worked it out by myself.

Anyway, the project was a handle for a blade, bought by my lad, for my Xmas gift.
Nice wood, heavy and oily, but a bit of a pain.

Though I have managed to make rough progress, using just the very blade for which I was making the handle!
Bit of a paradox, innit.

Ceeg

 

[C_Claycomb]

For handle shaping can I recommend the Vallorbe Swiss Cabinet Rasp - 250mm, I got mine from Axminster for about £12. The rest of these Swiss files are great, but this one is brilliant for roughing handles. Bows too. A 1/2 square b'stard file is also very good as it can be used to make gentle concave curves too. 60 grit shop roll abrasive cloth is good stuff for rounding the handle prior to final sanding.

I have used the little drums with a dremel, and found them less than satisfactory except for a couple aplications.

Very best of luck. Can you post a picture when you finish?

 

[Seagull]

Thanks for the inf, CC, I will be following up on that rasp, for sure.

Yup, I will post up, when done.

rgds
Ceeg