Timber Wolf knife

[Matt Weir]

Hi,

Can someone please advise me if I have messed up by buying this for general bushcraft use. I note that the shape of the blade is somewhat different to the general standard bushcraft shape.

I haven't used it yet so should I get rid and opt for a (cheaper) Mora?

Has anyone here owned a Timber Wolf?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Matt.

 

[BorderReiver]

Try it and see.It might suit you and you obviously like it or you wouldn't have bought it.

It might be an idea to buy a Mora anyway (they are really cheap) and do some comparisons.

 

[Matt Weir]

Here is the spec...

Full tang construction of stainless steel, contoured hardwood handle for a very comfortable and secure grip. A custom leather sheath is included 9" overall 4 1/2" blade.

Matt.

 

[Matt Weir]

Try it and see.It might suit you and you obviously like it or you wouldn't have bought it.

It might be an idea to buy a Mora anyway (they are really cheap) and do some comparisons.

Hi BorderReiver,

Good idea. Thanks for the reply.

Matt.

 

[bambodoggy]

There's nothing really wrong with that knife Matey....you may find that the secondry bevel makes wood carving a tad more difficult but you can always reprofile it.

As a wise man once said " a good knife in a bad bushcrafter's hand will never be better than a bad knife in a good bushcrafter's hand".

 

[Matt Weir]

There's nothing really wrong with that knife Matey....you may find that the secondry bevel makes wood carving a tad more difficult but you can always reprofile it.

As a wise man once said " a good knife in a bad bushcrafter's hand will never be better than a bad knife in a good bushcrafter's hand".

Hi Bam,

Are you refering to the bevel on the back edge of the blade? If so then fear not, it is not a sharp edge but flat. I think it's bevelled in case you want to put an cutting edge on there.

Matt.

 

[Hoodoo]

I would try to find out the width of the handle before buying it. If at all possible, try to find one you can hold in your hand. Many blades can be properly sharpened to do yeoman's duty for bushcraft, but an uncomfortable handle is hard to compensate for. A wide handle that does not taper too rapidly from the top is usually what you are looking for for the work of heavy woodcraft.

BTW, those grooves on the spine don't look too well placed for woodcraft. That is usually right where the web of my hand would be located. Looks painful to use to me.

 

[Matt Weir]

Hi Hoodoo

I have already bought it. The handle is actually very comfortable to grip. Obviously I haven't use it 'in anger' yet (poor turn of phrase when refering to a knife I know) but I suppose we will see.

Matt.

 

[Matt Weir]

Hi Bam,

Are you refering to the bevel on the back edge of the blade? If so then fear not, it is not a sharp edge but flat. I think it's bevelled in case you want to put an cutting edge on there.

Matt.

Hi Bam,

I have done a bit of research and have found out what a secondary bevel is

Can you tell me why would a secondary bevel cause issues with woodworking?

Thanks,

Matt.

 

[bambodoggy]

It's to do with neatly seperating the firbes of the wood to an extent...if you look at chisle heads, plain blades and most other woodworking tools you will notice that they do not have a secondry bevel on them although they may have a tiny micro bevel. When the knife cuts it needs to slice through the fibres and keep them travelling smoothly away from the edge, with a secondry bevel the run off is no longer smooth as they is now another ridge to go over.....does that make sence?

I'm not really the best person to ask about knife profiling, maybe Martyn or one of the other knife enthusiasts could explain further why it is but I do know this to be the case.

I am told secondry bevels are easier to sharpen and hold their edge better but I wouldn't know for sure as all my knives have scandi grinds on them.

Hope that helps,

Bam.