The Lairig Ghru trek

Van-Wild

Full Member
Feb 17, 2018
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I did this trek at the end of August, but have only just gotten round to writing it up. I followed the route of the 2022 Fjallraven Classic, my route totalled about 65km over 2 days and a morning.

I drove up on the Friday after work. Eight and a half hours non-stop got me to the Linn of Dee carpark. I had planned a quick walk in on arrival, but I was so tired I just slept in the car.

First thing in the morning, I woke up and took a leg stretch around the misty carpark to get my bearings. I paid for the parking and got a brew on. Within half an hour I was good to go, locked the car, shouldered my pack and headed onto the trail!

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It was a cool morning and I had to move quickly. The midges were out in force and I was getting battered every time I stopped to take a picture. The terrain was so beautiful I could of taken hundreds.

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As the morning went on, I crossed a river, refilling my water bladders and topping up the electrolytes. As the terrain changed from forest to open hill, the clouds looked ominous so I donned the goretex.

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A few more kms and I sketched my way through a small patch of woodland looking for a footbridge to cross the river... someone had hastily erected a tent in the trees that I went past as I crossed the bridge.

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Back out onto the hill and the rain came with a vengeance. I trotted on happily enough. After all, this is Scotland!

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Rounding the hills some time later I entered the Lairig Ghru proper. The clouds parted, and the sun bathed the hillside, showing the terrain ahead beautifully.

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I had planned a mid morning lunch break at the Corrour Bothy, but when I got to within sight of it, it was surrounded in tents and people milling about, so I opted to eat and drink a brew just by the footbridge before heading up towards the Pools Of Dee.

This was a good leg burner. The boulder field took some careful navigating before I got to the top.

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I crossed through the saddle and headed down the narrow path towards the Rothiemurchus Estate. By now I was quite tired and to be honest I was looking for a spot to pitch the tent.

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After a brief rest and a slurp of water, I decided that I would push on and make the day longer, therefore giving me less distance to walk the next day!

I walked through the forest. Large parts have been felled and it wasn't as beautiful as I had hoped. At the end of a long day I arrived at Ryvoan bothy. Quickly pitching my tent outside, I then went in to meet the very friendly chaps from the bothy association who were there rebuilding the timber porch. Much laughter, food and some story telling over cups of tea, and warmed by the fire that blazed away I soon felt ready for bed.

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The next morning after 10 hours straight sleep, I felt very chipper. Tent and everything else packed away, I snuck away just as the sun warmed the hillside. It looked to be another bright day.

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I climbed up the steep path some 880m ascent and looked down into the next valley where my route led. Dark grey clouds advanced up the valley towards me. On with the goretex again. The remainder of the day was spent face into the wind and rain. Lunch was taken in this mountain refuge.

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With lunch done I crossed another river and headed back towards the Linn of Dee. The bothy guys had informed me of a bothy tucked away which should be quiet for my last night. As evening was upon me I found it. Totally empty. I stripped and changed into my thermals, rolling out my sleeping bag and looking forward to a good night's sleep. At which point a group of 6 raucous uni students burst in, rucksacks banging about. They settled noisily and prepared numerous meals on stoves before watching the footy on their phones until gone 9pm. Oh well, who was I to disturb them? I put my ear plugs in and fell asleep. Alarm set for 0500, I rose as quietly as I could, packed away and left as they all slept.

4km or so back to the car, I bounced along happy as a lamb. I had loved every minute of my trek, and I'm so glad I did it.

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